Recent content by SootHappens

Supposedly it's straight up plug and play with the stock tune and you may not notice much difference. I went with Malone stage 4 tune and it's a huge increase in power. There may be someone out there that can comment on drive-ability using the stock tune.

When my actuator went at 180k miles, I opted for the PD140 turbo kit from IDparts. https://www.idparts.com/garrett-pd140-turbo-a5-brm-p-1993.html

Yes, unfortunately the 25w resistors still get hot enough to melt plastic. It's probably best to mount it to something metal. For some reason, my car was happy to keep both lights on with the use of only one 25w load resistor, connected to the passenger side circuit but YMMV.

I've been down the same road looking for a solution. After much research, I believe it's beyond the capabilities of VCDS. It seems that it can be turned off with a VAS tool, and is called 'warm diagnostics'. I went so far as to buy a (VAS 5054A ODIS V4.1.3) from ebay, but I couldn't get it to...

Maybe just jump the starter solenoid.

I think you need to have the ECU reprogrammed for EGR AND anti-shudder delete, perhaps even the difference in the way the turbo actuator for the pd140 system works vs stock brm. I recently upgraded my BRM to use the PD140 turbo, dumb actuator, egr and cooler delete, but retained anti-shudder...

I've experienced fast idle when either the battery is low, or alternator got wet. The ecu ups the idle to increase the voltage and current. You can often reproduce this on a healthy car, by turning on all accessories, defrosters, heaters, etc and after a minute or so the idle will increase to...

I concur, although I have the Sigma 5 (5-speed). One of the most satisfying mods I've done!

That sounds like the strut mount bearings. Mine started doing that on the passenger side. I waited until it was happening on both sides, then replaced the struts and mount assemblies.

I have the open, but would choose closed if I did it again. A few spots in the open part of the honeycomb have broken, but still look fine. I just don't think it's necessary and would probably look better without the openings. -S

It doesn't get very cold where I am, but I have noticed a few things. The Recirc setting can amplify this problem, so make sure it's off. You can turn on the AC with warm temp setting to quickly dry out the air.

When I had the subframe clunk issue, My TTY bolts could not be 'tightened' - they just broke (fun to remove). I put in the ECS kit which uses Passat bolts that are much stronger. No more popping/clunking. I think the original TTY bolts stretch a little after awhile causing the issue.

135k miles - Have done the dmf, rear brakes (x2), and shocks. link to a video of its condition 10k ago in my sig.

I've got an Osir vent pod with a McNally boost/egt. It works very well in this location. See "My YouTube" latest interior vids for example.

I think the best way to test would be to put a volt meter on the battery and see where it settles at normal idle and high idle. I had some issues with my voltage regulator after washing the engine compartment. The voltage was erratic from 12-15v and caused the lights to flicker and high idle...