Recent content by slam

The filter (screen assembly, really) came with the replacement reservoir (I sheared a hose barb during a battery replacement a few years ago). I'm the only mechanic on my car, it definitely wasn't added later. Here's the filter, showing the crack: Here's the flange it mounts on inside the...

The reservoir filter is a little tower. It fits over the first two digits of my pinky pretty good, so maybe an inch wide by two inches tall. It fits over a nub at the bottom of the reservoir on the output side. This is an Autohauzer replacement reservoir if I recall correctly. I'll post pics...

B4V with 330k miles. I got a condition where the power steering fluid is foaming up and shooting out of the reservoir. In addition to making a mess and growling like mini-Chewbacca at the pump, it killed my battery by getting PS fluid in the battery overflow nipple. Bleeding the PS system...

Left Lane Cars in New Jersey is no more, sadly.

I still haven't installed that tygothane. It been six or more years now on the motorcycle shop polyurethane and I've had zero issues. I used braided nylon fuel before that. It's NOT biodiesel compatible. In a short time they were "sweating" biodiesel and shortly after that they polymerized...

Hey are you saying there's a connector at each boot between door and frame? That would provide a faster way to check each door for leaks. Was not relishing getting into every door card. On the B4V there's a T-junction at the bottom of the right storage door inside the wagon bed, and another...

Hey folks! Any tips on troubleshooting B4 power lock vacuum lines? My pump whines and whines and can't get all doors locked or unlocked. But I can't figure out how the line connectors work or where to find a good junction to try to isolate a leak. I don't want to force the connectors apart...

330k is almost exactly my mileage, too. Kicking myself for returning the 120A as core now. Would have loved to rebuilt it instead!

Hey folks, Thanks for the help. I opted for the 90A rebuilt Bosch. Swap was easy; I used a $12 ball joint spread fork to grab the tensioner arm, pull it back, and ziptied the fork down so the arm stayed out of my way. Pulled the 120A stock unit and examined it; the copper contacts on the hub...

It looks like Autozone has the complete alternator assembly with regulator for $130 or so. They have the voltage regulator alone for $179. My mechanic, Mike from Left Lane Cars, suggests that on original alternators it's really easy to spin a particular stud when trying to bust the regulator...

If I pull the alternator and take it to Autozone, can they determine whether the alternator or regulator failed?<br> <br>

My alternator has the black cap, so it appears to have the separate voltage regulator as well. I can at least pull it and check the brush wear. How to determine if the failure is in the alternator vs the regulator? The regular is actually more expensive at Autozone.

I thought they were built-in on this model. If I can swap it that would be awesome. I am not looking forward to arm-wrestling the tensioner.

Need a little help from the forums this week. I've driving cross-country trailing a motorcycle and I've hit a bit of a snag. Battery light started flickering this morning at 65 mph+. At first it would stop flickering if I released the accelerator, but in an hour it was solid at 65 mph+, and by...

Scooper, trailer rental from Uhaul was about $600 bucks. Cheaper to buy a trailer in NJ and sell it in CA for maybe a $100 loss. I considered shipping the bike too, but $900-$1000 is also out of my budget. I also considered selling the Passat and buying a pickup or cargo van... but the...