Recent content by Rx7145

The vacuum line going to the flapper valve needs plugged. The tune should remove the vac solenoid that corresponds to the flapper valve so the solenoid and associated vacuum lines can be removed. However, the open vacuum line that went to the solenoid will need to be plugged.

Finial update. Got the car aligned and the lower front control arm aft rubber mounts changed. Car drives nice and straight. So the moral of the story is that yes removing the front center subframe will slightly affect alignment and if you are a picky about the steering wheel being straight (I...

This might help. https://web.archive.org/web/20180606161310/http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/turbo-stop-screw-adjustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/ Also any codes? Boost vs requested?

I kind of doubt it’s the cluster. The car itself is not going to sleep. I almost wonder if it’s the ignition switch. That car should have the updated can bus module on it from the factory. Sorry, I guess I’m not much help.

Well to me it sounds like you have an odd problem. I guess I would start by taking the panels off and manipulating the controls so you can see what’s broken. If you have buttons it’s all electronic if you have knobs I think that the heat control is still mechanical, but I could be wrong.

When cranking does the tack move?

From my understanding the oil pump takes the brunt of the punishment because it’s pumping unfiltered oil. The oil filter should trap the chunks and give the bearings clean oil. I’ve heard of people changing out the oil pump around 300k for this reason.

He was saving up money.

Something you could try would be to physically wire the turbo in full boost position and go for a drive and see if you get an over boost that would isolate the problem to the turbo control system.

So on the PD 140 turbo, you got rid of the smart actuator and just have a vacuum actuator now? The vacuum actuator rod move full travel as in the veins in the turbo are not sticking?

When it goes into limp what’s the code? Have you looked at requested vs actual boost?

Car is back on the road and the steering wheel seems to be slightly off but other times it seems to be straight, so I’m not sure if it moved. I did notice that the rear bushings of the front control arms is pretty cracked and worn so I might replace those and get an alignment.

Well, since the belt isn’t rubbing on anything, I’m gonna continue to just keep an eye on it and leave it be. It’s my understanding that the water pump is what centers the belt.

Don’t worry about it. Probably a Chinese axle. It’ll start giving weird vibrations after a while. I’ve found that GSP axles seem to be a pretty good value. The OEM axles are too expensive.

I would recheck the axle bolts after 100mi or so. I had some non-factory ones loosen up on me. What brand is that axle?