Oh. Forgot to update. Car is now starting and running just fine. It wasn't the crank sensor. For some reason, timing had jumped a tooth. Got it back on timing (timing belt was replaced by me in August 22) and I didn't verify my marks properly. I'm just glad it didn't jump any more teeth...
The intercooler is not bad to remove. The only problem with it is one of the clamps for the coolant is hard to get to to get a clamp tool on it. The clamp that's hard is the one close to the top on the left side of it looking from the front. The other two clamps can be gotten to from the bottom...
The jackass that had it before my sister used stop leak.. I got the majority of it out but not going to get the stuff caked onto other parts. But it is what it is
Well, right now I'm trying to take the sensor out without taking the oil cooler out again. I'm aware that it will be easier but I don't want to run the risk of the oil cooler leaking because I took it off and back on again. But if I don't get the sensor out today, I'm going to have to take my...
For anyone having this issue, I couldn't find any videos of the process so I'm going to share them with you to maybe help in diagnosis and repair of this sensor.
TLDR; when changing the oil cooler on the CKRA, change the crankshaft sensor at the same time.
I had changed out the oil cooler on my sister's car back in August. Everything went well. Had a bit of trouble with the intercooler being in the way and getting it out of the way. Once that was...
I want to try to avoid the zip tie method on this car as it is my 75 year old mom's car. I want to try to find the cause and try to fix it. I might try to get a camera on the turbo area and drive it and see what it's physically doing
Never been able to figure this one out bt would love some advice on where to start looking. No Engine codes, checked with VCDS and nothing out of the ordinary or related.
When I first start the car, everything sounds fine so I pull out of the driveway and get on the road and the car feels like...
I was able to jumper a fuseable link (15 amp) from SB14 (Ignition Coil Circuit, it is switchable) and route to SB8 (Radio) under the hood. Now the radio turns off with the key out, finally and now the battery is not draining as bad.
Red and Yellow are both constant power on my car currently. I was aware that Yellow was constant power to keep the memory of the radio and red is switched power. However, when I take the key out, it should cut power to the red wire, which it doesn't.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.