Design phase complete, manufacturing phase has begun! The part is laser cut and currently at the machinist getting the rest of the holes punched in it.
@jimbote do you have any photos or tips on how to check an adapter plate for runout? I should have a custom plate done by the end of this week or early next week and want to check it prior to full installation to make sure all is good. I have a spare bell housing and empty transmission case, but...
I absolutely do not recommend oven cleaner, it will eat the aluminum of the intake manifold. Tried it on a really nasty manifold and it severely pitted the sealing surface where the EGR valve bolts on and ate the threads out a couple of the EGR bolt holes.
Getting close to having a design I can take to the laser cutter and then the machinist. I'm planning on water jet cutting a test plate from some 1/4" polycarbonate sheet I have just to confirm all the bolt holes line up properly before I start in on the steel version.
I’m not quite in Canada, but not too far south. We get our fair share of magnesium chloride on the roads in the winter and stuff tends to rust pretty quickly. Mostly I’d be concerned about the aluminum bellhousing mounting to a bare steel plate. Paint is probably the best option, was thinking...
Another thing I have been pondering is some kind of corrosion protection for the adapter plate. It will be mild steel and therefore prone to rusting and the hardware seizing in the threads. My old adapter was electroplated in yellow zinc and held up fairly well, but I don't have local access to...
I'm going to be using a 1/2" thick single piece plate at a ~15-17º angle so I can retain my current motor and transmission mount locations, as well as maintaining the same position on all my coolant, intake and hydraulic hoses.
I currently run a 3.4 V6 Toyota starter, cold weather 1.8kW option...
Looking for input on design consideration for building a custom adapter plate to bolt my ALH back up to my Toyota R150f transmission. I am in the process of replacing a poorly made adapter plate with excessive runout that ruined my clutch, input shaft bearing and pilot bushing. Was going to get...
As stated above, those photos were taken a couple of years ago. We got the manifold and EGR valve totally cleaned out and reinstalled on the car. Significantly better power and torque after the cleaning!
It came out of a car that had less than the bare minimum of maintenance over its lifespan. As far as we could tell the timing belt had never been replaced until we did it at 215k miles. Turbo completely shot (56 thou endplay) at 239k.
That was a couple of years ago, we put the manifold in a dollar store foil baking pan and baked it in a barbecue for an hour. All the carbon buildup melted and oozed out the intake ports. Once it cooled it was brittle and was relatively easy to dig out the remainder with a screwdriver and pick.
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