Recent content by FlyTDI Guy

Stock, all the ALH's I've owned had IQ OEM values of around 2.8 or less. Not an inappropriate number for a completely stock car. Mileage was great. It's when you go to bigger nozzles, tune, turbo or all the above that you'll probably find yourself adjusting your IQ. Often, people are trying...

The DC stage-2 has a heavy diaphragm spring in it. That's going to affect the longivity of the disc facings. That said, I've got around 70-80k on mine. Pedal engages noticeably higher than when new. Still locks up fine though.

Buried somewhere here on Fred's, I recall a thread that showed quite a number of tensioners that had failed. Usually bent or sheared at the tab. As for the OP, sounds like you may have a damaged tensioner and/or less than competent installers. Torque is supposed to be 15 ft/lbs for the...

The only times I've seen that code it was associated with an injection pump problem. Something may have come loose with the pounding you took. I'd check out the IP wiring, connectors including your injector #3 wiring.

A lot of people recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1487167108&sr=8-18-spons&keywords=door+seal+protector+car&psc=1

Probably the same person that screwed your front valence to the car... :) Glad you found the problem.

I have to agree, Diesel 911 is not intended for full time use. IIRC, it has alcohol in it which is not good for seals. Optilube XPD, DieselKleen White, Stanadyne and others offer anti-gel which, when dosed properly, should protect you in all but the worst of conditions. OptiLube fares well in...

Having a DC Stage 2, I can say that peddle effort will definitely be different between the two. The DC-2 has a heavy diaphragm in the pressure plate and peddle effort is definitely higher than stock. Many here have commented on the ease of effort for the SBC line (2&3). Something to consider...

As we all well know, sh*t happens so hang in there...

Being combustion ignition, you bypass all timing mechanisms when you shoot volatile liquids down the intake. Early ignition would be a bad thing.

Once the timing belt is loose/removed, yes you have to align all 3 elements independently. If the cam is locked, then you'll want to detention the belt, pop the cam pulley loose and loosen the 3 IP sprocket bolts. Use a 22mm (or 23mm) wrench to rotate the pump until you can insert the pin. Both...

Cam is wildly out of time. Can you roll it over by hand using the crank? Not sure I would even try with the cam that far out. Not sure how much that engine has been rotated in that condition but I'd check out the top end for signs of collision. Also it's easy to miss the IP lock hole. Looks...

In all the years I've been reading posts, I think this is the first time I've heard of this kind of failure. Though expensive, congrats on your hard earned victory.

Just curious, how did it fail?

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