Recent content by Fiveflat

Nope, it's sold. :rolleyes:

Car is SOLD

Located in Northern California 170,xxx miles on the odometer. 5-speed manual transmission. Car runs great, but keep in mind it is 12 years old. The Good: New coilover suspension (yes, it can be raised back to stock height) Audi TT 17" wheels with new tires - less than 8000 miles on the tires...

How often should I be removing the intercooler? Is that something I should be doing regularly? I would love to delete the EGR and all that plumbing associated with it as well...

I have the snowscreen removed. I have no codes either. Now if the anti-shudder valve is broken, it would still run? Only other thing I really want to do asap is pull the intake manifold and give it a good cleaning and remove the EGR valve and 'catch' the CCV oil. But I don't want to do any...

Because everytime I come here to read up on what I think might be a little issue, I break into nervous hives! It seems as though every little thing, no matter how minor it is can lead to catastrophic engine failure! :rolleyes: Most recently (this morning) I had a case of the temporary limp...

Gosh darnit.....

Well, I learned that even though I unplugged my stereo all together that my cheap autozone Actron scanner wouldn't read because I likely fried the K-Line input on it. Took it to Jiffy Lube where they scanned it and cleared it for me for $20. The installer had a "remote" wire hooked up to that...

So I realized finally why I can't scan my ECU and it's because I have an aftermarket stereo. Only problem is, I disconnected the stereo all together, nothing plugged into the wiring harness whatsoever and I still have 10.46V on pin 7 of the diagnostic connector and reader still cannot...

I had identical situation and it WAS my charge air hose. Luckily for me it was the upper from the intercooler to the EGR. Faint hissing sounded like it came from passenger footwell area...

I just did this myself. Replaced only the top cover seal as I found that one to be my culprit and I was a little too nervous about the whole rotating the engine bit and getting that just right for the head seal...

That's a great idea!

I had a similar situation with my Jetta, above around 3000RPM. No codes, etc. but it was because of the small leak in my charge air hose. Not low enough boost to cause a code, but low enough to notice...

I'm interested in bigger nozzles too if what I understand is true. I have the stock 10mm pump, stock turbo and stock clutch. Can I order these 764's and simply twist the stock injectors out, twist these in and go? Or do I need to do any 'tuning' or VagCom work?

Just curious - with your busy schedule and the need to avoid repairs, etc. Why take on such a project? Find a running car and get a good head start?