Recent content by Drewmeister

It does kinda sounds like the door latch to me, or specifically the power lock part of it. I had similar things happen, along with "implausible" codes set for the RR door lock in the central locking module. For me it was usually the door not locking/unlocking (or only partially unlocking) when...

Removal no, unbolting yes. You have to pull it out a couple inches to get the HVAC box out. Helps to have someone else hold it up while you move the box.

I think you're referring to this (1K0129627B), right? (Part number is for PD100 BEW, may be different for yours.) I think it's around 70mm on the intake side and 55 on the turbo side. I had to replace mine because someone put a hose clamp (worm gear drive) on the turbo side and it ripped...

I just got a 5L jug of Pentosin HP2 for $28.79 at RockAuto. No idea if this is a sale price, and if so, for how long. $39.xx total including a Mann filter & shipping, not bad. Alternatively, not quite as cheap, but for local purchase, Napa carries the Liqui Moly oils. Your local store may...

Further follow-up: since I had to pull the dash to replace my evaporator core, I also reinstalled the original ignition switch at that time. Problem solved!

There is no shock or idler pulley on the BEW, just the one tensioner pulley that swings down. A seized alternator pulley will cause the tensioner to jump around at idle, but it may be fine after you replace the alternator pulley. Run it too long with a seized alternator pulley though, and you...

Chapter 60 in the Bentley manual covers the sunroof. There's four variations (Webasto or Rockwell/Meritor, and early/later versions of each), but for all of them, the basic procedure is: Tilt the sunroof so the rear is fully up. Unclip the side trim (on the interior, between the glass and the...

Weight of the truck will not be an issue... a regular cab 2wd S-10 weighs in at 2900 lbs.; 3200 lbs. for an extended cab 2wd. For comparison, a Mk.4 Jetta comes in at 3100. It's actually the lack of weight in the rear that can be an issue in these trucks -- not hard at all to do burnouts, even...

On my 2004 Jetta it was one 6mm head screw. Need a long nut driver or a socket + extension(s). While not required, it may be easier if you remove the blower motor & resistor, as that's just a couple screws holding it in, and you can then make sure the flap is engaged with the recirculation...

I'll take this -- I broke the clips on mine when removing it.

I had the same problem happen, and it turned out to be the "ignition lock housing". This is the central piece that the key cylinder and electrical ignition switch are mounted in; it also physically locks the steering wheel when the key is out. Your problem could also be the ignition switch...

For completeness, I'll provide a follow-up: I ordered an aftermarket ignition lock housing from PartsGeek, since it was over $100 cheaper than the dealer, and wasn't one of the infamous Prothe's sites, some of which did turn up while searching. (If the link doesn't work, search partsgeek.com...

Update on my situation: I added about 9 oz of R134a to the system 3 weeks ago; as I gradually added refrigerant, the high side pressure rose, but the low side stayed about the same. I stopped when the high-side pressure reached 150 (ambient was in the upper 70s F, IIRC). The A/C has worked...

I repaired the blend doors when I replaced the heater core last year, so it's not that. Because I have the single-piece HVAC box (vs. the split box) I had to discharge the A/C and remove the whole box to do the heater core. I also cleaned the evaporator at that time, which had a little bit of...

I think this might be my problem, but I'm not sure. My A/C is blowing cool but not cold enough, especially now that it's getting hot. When the A/C is on, the A/C clutch is engaged continuously, with no slippage of clutch or belt, and both fans are operational. The high-side pressure is...