But you need to go to the ross teck weki to get the meanings the SGII will work for just codes for adjustments and tweeking you need a VagCom or there are some new kinds I don't know about on fleabay. I have a SGII and a Vagcom. Vagcom is worth supporting IMHO.
Fill the filter with D2 or Powerserve you are trying to fill the filter with IP suction not good or use a mity vac type arrangment to get the filter full
It is possible your spare matchs the tires on the car you can buy a cheap tire new or used and use that as a spare having a good matching tire on the car. The spare can be even the current tire with a tube in it if it were sidwall damaged but only the spare a lot of heat build up that way.
I was talking about the screw in replacments. I have a slush box and didn't realize the 5 speed shared with the clutch In my sticks I had a seprate master slave or I had (going way back) just mechanical with a Z bar to (dis)engauge the clutch
If you plan to do it yourself get some speed bleeds from Autozone or the like ~7-10 a pair. this allows you to not need someone to close the bleed vale for every push. I guess you can do it withj the VagCom as well but I used speed bleeds use baster or some suction oil changer put in freash Dot...
The other 2 thing is to check:
1
Unplug the MAF if power is much better replace it
2
see if it is going into limp if so turing it off for just a second and back on will give you back your power
I don't think key batts have anything to do with it. Try only having 1 key in the car this may help. I have read that even a key on the passenger seat can screw up the immobilizer on these cars. Good luck and welcome check the list of Vac com owners local to you to clear the codes.
n75 is not that bad in cost, the EGR is bad like $300 worth. The actuator on the EGR is badto get the hose off of even if you try to spit it at the hole on it. I can't belive VW won't sell an actuator, full EGR's only. The actuator should be ~ 30 or so not 300 for whole valve.
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