You're not going to upgrade your stock turbo without a ton of specialized equipment to enlarge the housings to accommodate that larger compressor wheel. The best upgrade to stay with stock emissions is the CR190 or CR190 hybrid (56mm comp. wheel). The latter would benefit from upgraded injectors...
Definitely scan for codes if you haven't already.
The heater support pump should only run when the main (Timing belt driven) water pump is in warmup mode and the shroud covers that impeller to aid in marginally faster warmup of the coolant. The aux heater pump continues to push coolant through...
Drive more, worry less? ;)
I've heard good things about Pioneering Performance and is where I'm sending my 2260 off to for a slight upgrade to 2365. They have a sweet looking manifold for the ALH that I would go with if my 17/22 ever decides to kick it!
Downshifting from 3rd to 2nd would give the engine a good amount of twist, as would decel in 1st going down a hill...those two scenarios produce the same movements of engine rock and thus my guess of potential heat shield touching something as the engine travels to a certain angle.
Bad DMF usually starts with rattling at idle and cooler temps.
Is the car tuned? A tune can beat the DMF up and cause premature failure if not adjusted to correct.
No heat shields loose that you can tell...or does it sound like it's coming directly from the gearbox?
If it's the DMF, I'd get the...
I always lose right at 1 liter per 10k miles. @100k miles now, but it's been that way since purchase and have had two different turbos on the car with still the exact same results.
FWIW, my '01 does the exact same, 1 liter per 10k and it's at 313k now and fairly healthy mods.
No, I did not though my 2260vklr will have water cooling when I get to this swap I'm doing.
I believe you would want to tee into the line going from the cylinder head to the heater core as the feed line and return it via the other heater core line that runs up along the same side of the block...
I do the two at the gearbox, be sure to torque them back correctly (they're TTY bolts as well). It will give you all the room you need just like it does for the DPF.
Torque sequence for the two gearbox bolts is front bolt first at 50Nm then rear at 50Nm, then 90* each.
The old turbo comes out from up top and CR190 is not much different in size?
I'm able to get a 2260 in/out from up top, but have to undo the lower transmission mount (dogbone) in order to pivot the motor a lot more.