What did you do to your MKIV today?

deejaaa

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Location
Baytown, Texas
TDI
FOR SALE, 2002 Jetta GLS, 5 speed
Found a bunch of crud on the inside of the drivers door behind the regulator, looks like something sprayed upwards into the door?
Front

Back
looks like Zeibart or some other name rust “preventing spray “. often the holes they drilled caused rust. if you live up north it sucks.
 

ccaissie

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2018
Location
Lincoln County, Maine
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI, 99.5 GL Gasser, 1989 jetta diesel n.a.
Timing belt...had 102k on it...car has 353k.
Had a few snags, as it was my first ALH rodeo..

Went well, with the help of the forum people here.

I love the 2002 Jetta, it's in good condition, and I can expect to have it as my "puff"....daily driver and fave for long time.
If I get to another timing belt change, I'll be able to ace it in half the time.
 

dieseldonato

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Us
TDI
2001 jetta
After visiting my parents, started on the fuel pump swap. Just have to run the signal wire up to the injection pump.
 

ts888

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2023
Location
PNW US
TDI
03 ALH
Didn't get much done this weekend. Saturday was a recovery day, the shop was crazy busy last week and my old bones were feeling it. And the weather was blasting rain, snow, and hail. Also MotoGP is in Argentina this weekend, meaning the races happen mid-day on the west coast instead of Zero-dark-thirty, so I watched both the GP sprint on Saturday and the Moto2 and MotoGP races today.

Went to the shop at noon and put the oil pump cover back on, mounted the injection pump and installed the timing belt. Went to bolt up the vacuum pump and discovered it doesn't fit the new cam. I have not seen a vacuum pump with such a wide drive. The old cam has a wide slot, almost twice as wide as "normal." My cam holder tool would be swimming in that slot. Weird. So I have to order a new vacuum pump.

EDIT: I can't find any reference to more than one form factor for the vacuum pump. Maybe I'm just over tired and not seeing straight. I'll look at it tomorrow morning when I get to the shop.
 
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ts888

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2023
Location
PNW US
TDI
03 ALH
Aaaaand, vacuum pump mystery solved.

The cam is for a 1Z/AHU.

That's physically easy to resolve. But will the seller of the head swap cams? Dunno. If I have to buy a cam, it's still cheaper than a vacuum pump, so I guess I'm winning.

Also, there was some "too tired to be working on it" in there. When I looked at it today, the first thing I thought was "wrong cam." Last night I was obsessed with the vacuum pump. Sometimes it's better to put the tools away and come back to the problem.
 
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lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
My car has 215k miles on it and I was feeling that the shifting felt a bit thick, sticky. Not sure the right adjectives. Worse in the cold. I then learned that there is such a thing as gear oil! I replaced it and now my shifting is buttery smooth. Highly recommend! The old gear oil was a tar color at this point.
 

dieseldonato

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Us
TDI
2001 jetta
Finished up the exhaust. Few other bits and bobs. Stopped by the shop I used to work at. Got the injectors finished up with the .230 nozzles. Popped off at spec, spray pattern looked perfect. Swapped them out while I was there. Just for the fun of it we checked out the stock injectors. Pop pressure was low, below worn spec from what he was saying. 2500 psi minimum was something like 2900 psi. Pretty happy with it all things considered. Can't wait till burpod works his magic.
 

Greaseburger

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Location
Swanzey,NH
TDI
99.5 Jetta,2011 Tdi sportwgon
Kerma Tdi stainless 2 1/2'' turbo back system, may add a resonator but will run it for a few days before I decide.
 

dieseldonato

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Location
Us
TDI
2001 jetta
Kerma Tdi stainless 2 1/2'' turbo back system, may add a resonator but will run it for a few days before I decide.
Just did 2.5" on my 01. I was pretty surprised how quiet it was in the cab with the windows up. Not bad with the windows down either.
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH

Separated the mechanical side from the electronic side of the drivers Door Lock Module, the videos I've seen of disassembly all show a little metal retaining clip holding the Microswitch on, this module didn't have a clip on it, does anyone know how I can safely remove the microswitch? (and be able to reassemble) thanks
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
See those two plastic rivets with the white dot between them. Remove those and the switch comes out.
I believe melt the other side and pull plastic rivet out.
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Damn ! When was the clutch last touched?
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH
See those two plastic rivets with the white dot between them. Remove those and the switch comes out.
I believe melt the other side and pull plastic rivet out.
Maybe this switch won't be able to be simply cleaned and reinstalled.. can't quite tell without removing it yet if the switch will be salvageable but was trying to remove it "gently" so it might go back in
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Yeah chances are the switch is bad. That can be replaced.
There’s a long thread about replacing the switch ….I think it’s called the $3 dollar door lock switch fix….or something to that effect. Different versions of the switch found were tried….. I believe they finally found one that was weather resistant, the p/n should be in that thread near the end…..been awhile since I was in that thread.
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
There is also this one too.

Magnetic door switch mod.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
When installing a clutch kit, especially for 'Northern' vehicles, I recommend to check the pivot ball pivot spring and fork. Our kits always include them. If they aren't needed you can return about $50 worth of parts. No restock fee.

Sometimes the pivot point on the clutch fork is not obvious that it is worn. The whole piece is formed from a metal stamping of what is about 6 ga steel. The thickness of the depression for the pivot is about .192" or about 3/16". It's hard to measure, so I recommend dropping a steel ball bearing into the cup of the pivot, measure from the outside of the fork to the outside of the bearing. I use a bearing out of a destroyed ALH front wheel bearing for example. Delete the diameter of the bearing and you have what is left of the thickness of the pivot in the fork.

I've measured some that appeared to be fine, but the thickness of the metal was down to less than .100" or approachin 1/16" for what originally was 3/16"! It's not that you can't reuse a clutch fork, but nobody wants to do that job and have the rear main seal start leaking in 10,000 miles, or like the picture above, see the pivot ball (which probably was also worn out...), cause you another approximate 6 hrs of labor to repair, or even worse, have to replace the pressure plate.

'Do It Once and Do It Right' is our mantra for 'standard operating procedure'.
 

P2B

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Location
Toronto & Muskoka, Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta, 2003 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon
Last fall I pulled an OE Sachs clutch with 620k on it. The clutch itself probably had at least another 100k in it, but the throwout bearing had failed and the fork was paper thin at the pivot.

Everything got replaced except the rear main seal - I'm not touching one that's lasted that long and still isn't leaking.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Rear main on this car was OE and was seeping pretty badly (bottom engine-transmission bolt was soaked in oil too), so that got replaced, too.
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
Frank, if the clutch job only took me 6 hours, I would be *MUCH more cavalier about the whole thing. It is too much like cycling around Frostburg, MD, only the job lasts longer than the hills do...LOL

Douglas
 
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