Bhw issues after cam replacement

Nathan_og

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2002 vw jetta 1.9 alh 5 spd
So I just recently had the camshaft replaced on my Passat. The shop advised me that they did the injector seals as well even tho I did not ask.

now when I go to get the car, it has zero power. It even shifts a little iffy but it struggles to get up to speed. Starts and idles fine. They said they took everything apart and could not figure out what’s wrong.

any ideas?

they said they checked timing as well
 

PickleRick

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I'd venture to guess there's a charge pipe not locked in or a vacuum hose going to the n75 not attached.

If they had the timing wrong you'd likely have valves hitting the pistons.

Did this shop by chance have vcds to set torsion value? If not, you took it to the wrong shop.
 

Nathan_og

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I'd venture to guess there's a charge pipe not locked in or a vacuum hose going to the n75 not attached.

If they had the timing wrong you'd likely have valves hitting the pistons.

Did this shop by chance have vcds to set torsion value? If not, you took it to the wrong shop.
They are aware of vcds but I believe they said they use a different scan tool.
I know they are very familiar with German cars especially diesels. We have been going there with many German diesels for over 15 years. They also were well aware of the Bhw motor and the cam issues.

They told me they had locked everything in place. I mentioned to them torsion value etc but they didn’t really give me a reply. The tech who worked on it was going through photos of the cam timing on the computer with me and he believes that’s what it is.

they said they will take a look tomorrow morning
 

Nathan_og

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Could torsion value possible cause this? The car basically feels as if it has no turbo. They said they checked the boost from the turbo and it was good.

I will bring my vcds cable and check torsion value my self if they can’t figure it out.

Which block would it be in again on vcds? Thanks
 

PickleRick

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I'm sorry I don't remember which block, engine measurements values maybe, been too long.


I just swapped turbos from my parts Passat with a like new Borg Warner turbo onto my 4 runner. I responded to your post right before test run and on test run made 1 to 2 psi max, no power past idle. Was running perfect other than smoking more than I liked before the swap.

After checking for boost leaks I had the check valve hose loose. Attached and ran great again.


On my 4 runner these hoses and n75 are on the inner fender, very easy to access. On the Passat they are under the turbo intake hose and impossible to access without removing some stuff. If original those hoses are brittle. I'd look there for possible tech having knocked something off or getting something routed wrong


An inoperable n75 won't make boost/power but your egts won't spike.



A boost leak will drive up egts quickly, the worse the leak the higher it gets. We're taking 600c plus to maintain 30-40 mph with a pipe completely off. But this info is useless to you without an egt and boost gauge.
 
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Nathan_og

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I will let the shop know first thing tomorrow morning to check for boost leaks.
The tranny shifted rough too a little but I think it is because it was so low on power.
it shifted smoothly other wise.
 

PickleRick

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I couldn't answer the shifting issue on the slush box as I haven't had any automatic in my Passat since 2018 and during the brief time of ownership I don't think I had any boost issues until after the 5 speed conversion. After playing with all those brittle hoses during the 5 speed conversion/balance shaft delete/timing belt change I had one fail near immediately on a work commute.

I can verify that shifting into any gear other than 1st is daunting with a charge pipe off or major charge pipe leak. Something simple and small like a boost gauge hose coming off on the charge pipe is not noticable at all during normal driving.

With the n75 not functioning I can get into 3rd gear in the heavier 4 runner, 4th on the flattest of ground.

Being how the transmission shifts based off of engine load/rpm/throttle position/etc I'd venture to guess the transmission isn't really set up for an ideal shift pattern at 100% throttle for the slow climb to 20 mph with near zero boost.
 

Nathan_og

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I couldn't answer the shifting issue on the slush box as I haven't had any automatic in my Passat since 2018 and during the brief time of ownership I don't think I had any boost issues until after the 5 speed conversion. After playing with all those brittle hoses during the 5 speed conversion/balance shaft delete/timing belt change I had one fail near immediately on a work commute.

I can verify that shifting into any gear other than 1st is daunting with a charge pipe off or major charge pipe leak. Something simple and small like a boost gauge hose coming off on the charge pipe is not noticable at all during normal driving.

With the n75 not functioning I can get into 3rd gear in the heavier 4 runner, 4th on the flattest of ground.

Being how the transmission shifts based off of engine load/rpm/throttle position/etc I'd venture to guess the transmission isn't really set up for an ideal shift pattern at 100% throttle for the slow climb to 20 mph with near zero boost.
I spoke with the shop just now. They are lost as to what’s causing it. They said they will be putting the old camshaft back in and see what happens.
 

Mozambiquer

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I spoke with the shop just now. They are lost as to what’s causing it. They said they will be putting the old camshaft back in and see what happens.
I don't think they know what they're doing then.
Did they check for vacuum leaks and how much vacuum the vacuum pump is putting out? Did they pressure test the induction system? Did they do a n75 output test?
 

Nathan_og

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That’s what it looks like to me to.
I don’t think they did any of those test. If they can’t figure it out I will probably tow it to a vw specialist
 

Mozambiquer

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That’s what it looks like to me to.
I don’t think they did any of those test. If they can’t figure it out I will probably tow it to a vw specialist
Just don't let them put the old cam back on, as then you'll need all new bolts and everything.
 

PickleRick

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Maybe you got lucky and they installed reusable cam bolts.
 

Nathan_og

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I was thinking the same thing with the cam bolts. I’ll let them know about the vacuum system. When they eventually and hopefully figure it out I will make sure they don’t reuse the bolts
 

Nathan_og

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Update: The shop said the turbo is not getting any vacuum and looks like the pump is not making vacuum. They ordered a new pump and will see what happens
 

Nathan_og

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I’m guessing they removed the tandem pump to do the cam, is there any way they could have messed up in the process?

I don’t see how it could be working perfectly fine and then not alI of a sudden.
 

burpod

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well, not sure what they did, but doesn't sound like they know what they're doing unfortunately... the fact they would suggest putting the old cam back in indicates they are clueless
 

PickleRick

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I've never heard of the tandem pump failing on the vacuum side.
 

Nathan_og

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Alright they put a new tandem pump. The car drives now but has a decent amount of more turbo lag then before from a stop. It also isn’t quite as fast but goes decently. The shop has done all they could and I will be going to a vw specialist now as something still seems to be up with the vacuum system.

any ideas what may be causing this?
 

Nathan_og

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Are there some test I can do to check vacuum with vcds? I know I can do the n75 test. I also pulled up a vacuum diagram and am gonna re trace the vacuum system.
 

Nathan_og

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Clearly they messed up something to change the tandem pump and not charge me for it. I just am lost as to how they could of do the cam and injectors seals and create a vacuum issue. I know they have to remove the tandem pump to do the cam so maybe they messed up the lines or something.

I can see they played around with the egr and pipes as well
 

Nathan_og

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The car has what feels like 5 seconds maybe more of turbo lag. It’s really dangerous to be merging out In traffic. It doesn’t feel torquey like before either just revs high and goes ok
 

PickleRick

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Are you throwing any codes? Specifically under boost code?

A single leaky o ring on one of the charge pipe couplers can cause this issue.
 

Nathan_og

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Are you throwing any codes? Specifically under boost code?

A single leaky o ring on one of the charge pipe couplers can cause this issue.
No codes but I will drive around and scan again. The only is one for the intake flap which was always there.
 

Windex

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get VCDS to the group where you can see requested boost vs actual. Graph it and post here.

Another check (should not have been affected by a cam replacement is to see how the VNT actuator responds to vacuum - should start opening at 4" and bottom out at 18" vac.

Also, have you checked your torsion value?
 

Nathan_og

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Well I went to pick up the car this morning and pedal to the floor for what felt like 15 seconds nothing happens, no boost at all. So I parked it right back at the shop. It also smoked a lot more on start then before and the engine sounds different. I think the timing is off, they seem cluesless when I asked them about setting torsion value and there using a different scan tool instead of vcds.
 

zzdiesel

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My tandem pump quit producing vacuum to the point of affecting the brakes, Rick.

I wonder if they broke the drive ears off the original pump when replacing it. I suppose it would not run at all if so.
 

Nathan_og

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I’m here at the car scanning it right now. After starting it again there is no smoke and no smoke when revving but looks like it doesn’t want to spool up or rev fast
 

Nathan_og

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Update: scanned car, no codes except intake flap which has always been there. Checked torsion value it was 0.5, engine was cold when checked.

injector balance
Cyl 1) -1.86
Cyl 2) -0.71
Cyl 3) -0.05
Cyl 4) +2.64
All checked when cold. I don’t recall cyl 4 ever being that high but not sure.

I did a n75 test, actuator moved perfectly to fully open and fully closed.
After the car was idleing for a few min I took it for a drive, at first it had big turbo lag which started to get better the more I drive. Now after driving for a few min the car pulls almost as how it did before and the turbo lag is lessened but still much more then before.

also when coming to a stop, I hear a noise which sounds like it’s coming from the brakes booster and the pedal kinda dips for a sec and rpm drop as well very slightly.
 
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