What did you do to your MKIV today?

Bobo4255

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Location
Charlotte, NC
TDI
2003 Golf GLS TDI Manual
I'll be looking into this, do they mount in the OEM location no problem? I need horns bad. Easy to crimp some new terminals/connectors if needed.

Bonus points if you could post or share a sound clip...
Negative on the sound clip for now, but yes they're an easy fit in the OEM location. Just remove the fiddly little metal tab arms that come on in the kit packaging (also like stock, with a 13mm nut on top, and re-use the lock washer from your broken OEM horns.

I'll work on the sound clip thing, never done that here.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Negative on the sound clip for now, but yes they're an easy fit in the OEM location. Just remove the fiddly little metal tab arms that come on in the kit packaging (also like stock, with a 13mm nut on top, and re-use the lock washer from your broken OEM horns.

I'll work on the sound clip thing, never done that here.
That would be great, the only replacement horns worth a damn for these cars isn't sold anymore by Tunemyeuro. Really want something that can get people's attention and not be annoyingly high pitched. More truck SUV tone
 

benIV

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Location
Southeast NC
TDI
2003 PG 5m Jetta GL Sedan, 2003 RS 5m Jetta GLS Wagon (Golf Variant)
I started cleaning it up, both of them; deep cleans. I'm trying to convince myself not to sell them, but alas I find I have no time for almost anything anymore outside of work and the 5 kids.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Boy am I exhausted. Finally started working on my project 2002 Golf, now that it's not as hot at night (but still fairly humid), not raining, and not windy.

Got my LCA's mounted, one wheel hub mounted, replacement VR6 brake calipers put in place, so I could bleed the brakes. Had a massive leak of brake fluid, and found that I had no o-ring on my clutch cable. Fortunately, I found a second cable in the garage, but I had to reshape the metal piping portion. Did that and got the brakes and clutch bled. Couldn't test the brakes, but the clutch pedal works.

I previously couldn't get the transmission into first. I dumped ATF into the transmission, mostly empty, and now it shifts into 1st and all gears and reverse just fine. I'll probably run it another 5 minutes on jacks tonight, then let the ATF drain overnight (including out of the 5th gear cover), and then pour in Redline Lightweight Shockproof, which is amazing stuff (use it in my daily driver). Matt Whitbread suggested this procedure to clean water intrusion/nastiness out, and it's worked perfect for me on another car.

Somewhat near future plans, ideally after I get the car back on the ground, is replacing the injection pump. The current pump is an 11mm, but the "made in" portion is scratched off. So I have no clue who the hell refurbed it. In will go a "Made in Czech Republic" pump, since those are 100% refurbished with new parts. I'll do the same at some point on mom's Golf, so I'll know that I'm not using the original German-made injection pumps (I've found a big difference between using a rebuilt pump and an original German pump with who knows how many hundreds of thousands of miles).

Oh, and finally, I got my cooling system fixed. As much as I love two of our trusted vendors on opposite coasts, I'm not buying aftermarket heater core couplings again. Last ones I got were LEAKING before I even turned the car ON. The o-rings inside are absolute crap! The dealer parts aren't cheap, but no leaks. Ended up getting one that comes out straight, in addition to the normal 45 degree angle, and my fitment is perfect (EGR cooler delete). Lasltly, I replaced the coolant flange (since this is a 5 speed swap car). Some previous owner put in some s#it Dorman part, and I could see some evidence of corrosion/coolant by that flange. Cleaned that up and replaced it with a Genuine VW part.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
That would be great, the only replacement horns worth a damn for these cars isn't sold anymore by Tunemyeuro. Really want something that can get people's attention and not be annoyingly high pitched. More truck SUV tone
Junkyard. I've had good luck with replacement horns there, and a fraction of the cost you pay for Chinese junk from tunemyeuro (who have mostly left the TDI market after dieselgate).
 
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KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Junkyard. I've had good luck with replacement horns there, and a fraction of the cost you pay for Chinese junk from tunemyeuro (who have mostly left the TDI market after dieselgate).
His aftermarket horns sounded WAY better than the OEM ones. There's still a video out there of what he used to have. I think I'm going to go the Porsche Cayenne FER route as someone posted above
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Should you want to change the sound, should be an easy DIY project. You will have to pay attention to voltage, amperage, signal source(s), physical fitment.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
His aftermarket horns sounded WAY better than the OEM ones. There's still a video out there of what he used to have. I think I'm going to go the Porsche Cayenne FER route as someone posted above
I don't disagree, as I bought some from him before, but I just noticed quality started going downhill on a bunch of stuff until he mostly gave up on VW and went to mostly BMW.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
What I did today. Since Elsa photobombed, I'm including an obligatory shot of her. Would've used the truck, but it's currently pissing out oil, so it's waiting to go to the mechanic on Tuesday (I don't have the time nor scaffolding to work on it). This is after using the same car with the livestock trailer to bring home a livestock guardian dog from the vet earlier in the morning.





 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Filled it up with fuel for the first time since mid-June. 44.5 mpgs on this tank just running around town this summer (I’m a teacher). I was actually expecting worse.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
What I did today. Since Elsa photobombed, I'm including an obligatory shot of her. Would've used the truck, but it's currently pissing out oil, so it's waiting to go to the mechanic on Tuesday (I don't have the time nor scaffolding to work on it). This is after using the same car with the livestock trailer to bring home a livestock guardian dog from the vet earlier in the morning.





You tow a lot, you should get some helper bags in the rear!
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Changed the oil today. First time since shortly after I bought it. Fresh oil was black instantly, as it was the last time.

Also drained the intercooler (last oil change I had drilled a hole and put a screw in it). Seemed like a bit more was in the pan than I was expecting, so I poured that into a measuring glass. There was 1 1/2 oz. In it, which I think seems ok?
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Changed the oil today. First time since shortly after I bought it. Fresh oil was black instantly, as it was the last time.

Also drained the intercooler (last oil change I had drilled a hole and put a screw in it). Seemed like a bit more was in the pan than I was expecting, so I poured that into a measuring glass. There was 1 1/2 oz. In it, which I think seems ok?
I'm not sure how long it'd accumulated in there, but I think it's fairly normal.
 

Cory_S

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Location
Orlando, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta Mk4 auto white, 2002 Jetta auto blue, 1996 Passat B4
Changed my fuel filter in hopes of clearing a P1248 code - no such luck. Had a heck of a time getting the IP bled, taking an extra day to look everything over. Appointment with out of town TDI specialist next week.
I changed out my IP start-of-injection solenoid... it was dead.. but the new one is giving me intermittent P1248 code, but no drivability issues (like when it was dead). Did you get your issue resolved?
 

ToxicDoc

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Location
Virginia, US
TDI
2001 Jetta, S7, .216
I changed out my IP start-of-injection solenoid... it was dead.. but the new one is giving me intermittent P1248 code, but no drivability issues (like when it was dead). Did you get your issue resolved?
No unfortunately. It's been sitting at the specialist's shop for 4 weeks. Counter guy tells me one of their techs quit so they had only just gotten to it on Friday (2 days ago) when I called last. I have as yet gotten a chance to talk the owner, but counter guy says owner was looking at my timing. Hopefully I'll have an update this week. Code suggests 108 solenoid or wiring to it, timing being off, fuel supply. Since my problem started right after I fixed my boost issue (leaking hose to turbo), I wonder if it's as simple as a timing adjustment.

The Ross tech site gives a good breakdown with a link to how to check timing. I've grown increasingly frustrated with the quality and work ethic of people working on my car that think I should've done this myself. I just can't spend the time on it due to my job. smh don't know the right answer anymore


Very good video at the bottom of this page:

 
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jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Genius!!
What kind of screen did you use over the opening?
That is a good idea. Looks like plastic gutter guard screen
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
I changed out my IP start-of-injection solenoid... it was dead.. but the new one is giving me intermittent P1248 code, but no drivability issues (like when it was dead). Did you get your issue resolved?
I had the timing stuck advanced on Donna's ALH once. Had problems locating a new solenoid, plus very pricey. So I pulled the pump and replaced the solenoid with one off a used pump I knew had worked. Same problem existed, but not stuck completely advanced all the time as before. I ended running Diesel purge through it and cycling the advance solenoid with VCDS at the same time. The issue cleared up and has never returned.
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
No unfortunately. It's been sitting at the specialist's shop for 4 weeks. Counter guy tells me one of their techs quit so they had only just gotten to it on Friday (2 days ago) when I called last. I have as yet gotten a chance to talk the owner, but counter guy says owner was looking at my timing. Hopefully I'll have an update this week. Code suggests 108 solenoid or wiring to it, timing being off, fuel supply. Since my problem started right after I fixed my boost issue (leaking hose to turbo), I wonder if it's as simple as a timing adjustment.

The Ross tech site gives a good breakdown with a link to how to check timing. I've grown increasingly frustrated with the quality and work ethic of people working on my car that think I should've done this myself. I just can't spend the time on it due to my job. smh don't know the right answer anymore


Very good video at the bottom of this page:

Didn't catch your issue, but if it applies, check post #9502 above
 

ToxicDoc

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Location
Virginia, US
TDI
2001 Jetta, S7, .216
Didn't catch your issue, but if it applies, check post #9502 above
Yes, I've gotten that far in my mind, even thought about just replacing the solenoid. I didn't want to get into learning how to do the base engine timing however - tight spot, need additional tools, risk of damaging something (been reading a lot of members here with tensioner install fails for example), etc
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Yes, I've gotten that far in my mind, even thought about just replacing the solenoid. I didn't want to get into learning how to do the base engine timing however - tight spot, need additional tools, risk of damaging something (been reading a lot of members here with tensioner install fails for example), etc
My point was that running the engine on straight Liqui Moly Diesel Purge cured the problem. Changing the solenoid, which involves removing the pump, did not. Apparently something was causing the advance mechanism to stick.
 

Redneckeric

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Location
Chesapeake VA
TDI
03 Jetta
Not today but yesterday. Been piecing back together my 03 jetta since my accident. Had installed new cv axles since the boots were shot and not much grease left. Had to replace the subframe due to the captured nut not staying captured. Dropped frame and noticed trans fluid collecting at bottom of the flanges on both axles. So bought and installed new output seals cork gaskets and bolts since i didnt replace the first time. Gotta put the subframe back in and torque all the front suspension down.
 

ToxicDoc

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Location
Virginia, US
TDI
2001 Jetta, S7, .216
My point was that running the engine on straight Liqui Moly Diesel Purge cured the problem. Changing the solenoid, which involves removing the pump, did not. Apparently something was causing the advance mechanism to stick.
I understand now. thanks for the suggestion
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
The rh rear e-brake cable decided to stick , was broken where it’s attached to the bottom of frame with that funky clamp.
Replaced both e-brake cables with the new heavy duty ones and installed helper return e-brake springs.
 
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