What did you do to your MKIV today?

[TurboABA]

Most modern, properly maintained diesels use "thin" synthetic fluids, have all sorts of glow plugs and "starting aids" (coolant and fuel preheaters, etc) that winter is not an issue. The lack of these systems and components, or the incorrect use of cheaper fluids is the main factor when your diesel doesn't start..... if we were in the arctic, then we could talk about hard to start diesels, but not in the areas that 98% of us consider "cold".

 

[KrashDH]

Most modern, properly maintained diesels use "thin" synthetic fluids, have all sorts of glow plugs and "starting aids" (coolant and fuel preheaters, etc) that winter is not an issue. The lack of these systems and components, or the incorrect use of cheaper fluids is the main factor when your diesel doesn't start..... if we were in the arctic, then we could talk about hard to start diesels, but not in the areas that 98% of us consider "cold".

I was running 5W-40. Glow plugs and intake heaters don't do anything for the oil.
As soon as I put a heated magnetic oil blanket on my oil pan and let it run overnight, fired up no question, normal cranking.

Believe me, both my diesel's are VERY well maintained. No cheap fluids, lack of any components. Hard starts and cold starts are 2 very different things. Hard starting will be greatly "exaggerated" in those cold temps.

 

[TurboABA]

I run 0w-30 syn and have never had any issues starting in winter. I also use fuel treatments.
I guess my TDIs are just special since they are Canadian..... they must not know about cold starts.

 

[pkhoury]

Well, that was fun. Plumbed in my new in-tank lift pump into my 2002 Golf. That was easy. My car got a new one, but I pulled two used ones for the other ALHs yesterday at the junkyard, so I knew what to expect and how to avoid lots of spilled fuel (which I did avoid). The time consuming part was the wiring, but I also plumbed in a tap to pin four of my MAP, so I can now see boost on my ColorMFA. Added a lead for my headlight levelers as soon as I get the rheostat housings from idparts, and 2 more wires for a future project.

 

[benmarks]

Well, that was fun. Plumbed in my new in-tank lift pump into my 2002 Golf. That was easy. My car got a new one, but I pulled two used ones for the other ALHs yesterday at the junkyard, so I knew what to expect and how to avoid lots of spilled fuel (which I did avoid). The time consuming part was the wiring, but I also plumbed in a tap to pin four of my MAP, so I can now see boost on my ColorMFA. Added a lead for my headlight levelers as soon as I get the rheostat housings from idparts, and 2 more wires for a future project.

I have the boost hooked up too. It's one of the "extra" things you can connect along with the hood opened/closed sensor and the oil pan level sensor (if you have an oil pan with the sensor.) If it's a car with the older 1J0 CCM, you can enable the opened/closed alert for all the other doors and too, but this isn't necessary if it's a car with the 1C0 CCM. The hood wire in needed with either CCM, though.

You can also enable the headlight bulb monitoring system. You'd need to run some additional wires to your headlights, and you need to solder a diode onto your cluster, but it's pretty convenient once you have it working.

 

[norbert77]

Only neglected diesels struggle..... just sayin

I buy them 20 years old...

 

[norbert77]

Only neglected diesels struggle..... just sayin

Where to start repairing? Doesn't much like a few degrees below freezing at all.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

A few things to check...assuming the car is mostly stock engine wise...

- Make sure all 4 glow plugs are working
- Make sure the battery is in good condition in regards to CCA (have it load tested)
- Make sure BOTH the + and - battery cables are good - voltage drop test while cranking is recommended
- Make sure the starter is in good shape, brushes are not worn out, etc. The current has to travel through multiple joints in the starter to make it back to ground - these get weak over time/corrosion/looseness, etc
- Make sure the cam timing is set correctly or 1 flywheel tooth advanced (helps cranking compression)
- Make sure the injection timing is set correctly or biased to the top of the range
- Use a 0w30 engine oil
- Make sure there's no bubbles in the fuel line to the injection pump, consider installing a PD lift pump in the tank

 

[C.Powell]

Last week...
Jetta into Concept 1for new tie rod ends, front subframe bushings and dogbone mount to replace the ones with 350000km on that got destroyed when I failed to see the divider that turned the 4 lane road into 2lanes and 2 lanes with a 4 inch high kerb/divider between them in the 5 inches of fresh snow. Hit it square on about 65kmh, instantly bent the front left rim and blew the tire. Pulled over to change the wheel and had just got the weight off the tire when the handle broke off the jack. Can't go up enough to get the new wheel on, even if I got the old one off. Can't go forward or back. Time to call AMA.......
While waiting I went back and found the wheel trim (cracked with a bit missing) and found someone else had been through earlier and wiped out the warning sign. There was still a six inch high stub but the snow had built up under the skid plate sufficiently to slide over it without tearing off the oil pan.
This is about the fifth time the skid plate has saved the ride on the flatback of shame so about $100 each hit so far, including one that tore out one of the skidplate rear bolts.
Hefty metal skidplate is the difference between driving to the repair shop and being flatbacked with no oil pan.

 

[norbert77]

A few things to check...assuming the car is mostly stock engine wise...

- Make sure all 4 glow plugs are working
- Make sure the battery is in good condition in regards to CCA (have it load tested)
- Make sure BOTH the + and - battery cables are good - voltage drop test while cranking is recommended
- Make sure the starter is in good shape, brushes are not worn out, etc. The current has to travel through multiple joints in the starter to make it back to ground - these get weak over time/corrosion/looseness, etc
- Make sure the cam timing is set correctly or 1 flywheel tooth advanced (helps cranking compression)
- Make sure the injection timing is set correctly or biased to the top of the range
- Use a 0w30 engine oil
- Make sure there's no bubbles in the fuel line to the injection pump, consider installing a PD lift pump in the tank

Glow plugs tested good with ohm meter. Starter was replaced before I got it. I put in a next size bigger AGM battery, 3 years old now. No bubbles in injector lines, they're transparent fuel lines. 5w40 rotella t6. Wire terminals didn't look corroded.

When it starts it usually blows some blue smoke, I replaced injectors but that didn't fix it. Will try the starting current check. Vehicle is due for a clutch replacement, I might just upgrade the wires. Vcds shows timing in Normal ranger if I read it correctlly

 

[Hyde7278]

Bought a 6sp swap. So ill have some work to do putting it in in a few weeks.;

 

[TurboABA]

Glow plugs tested good with ohm meter. Starter was replaced before I got it. I put in a next size bigger AGM battery, 3 years old now. No bubbles in injector lines, they're transparent fuel lines. 5w40 rotella t6. Wire terminals didn't look corroded.

When it starts it usually blows some blue smoke, I replaced injectors but that didn't fix it. Will try the starting current check. Vehicle is due for a clutch replacement, I might just upgrade the wires. Vcds shows timing in Normal ranger if I read it correctlly

Don't judge connections\wires just by looks. Check with meter.
Was the starter used OEM or some cheapy? Check your cranking rpm with VCDS.
Ensure your GP relay is working properly.
Check your battery charge status with VCDS... what voltage are you seeing before cranking, and how low does it drop during cranking?
Does VCDS AutoScan report any other outstanding faults?
When you say bigger battery.... do you mean SIZE or CCA?

 

[norbert77]

Bought a 6sp swap. So ill have some work to do putting it in in a few weeks.;

Super jealous. I drove around yesterday trying to get a feel for the 5th gear swap to see how it would work for me, and I don't think it would, I'd rather get much taller tires.. but you say 6 speed swap? Out of what? How easy to change? I need a clutch anyways

 

[Hyde7278]

They were not avalible in the US for the diesles, so I got it from Korwerksllc.com he imports them in. Its pretty much just taking out your 5spd and putting in the 6 spd, you do have to change the flywheel, starter, axles and shifter but thats pretty strait forward.

They just got a shipment of them and it will be his last time getting them. They come with all the parts and they cost $1500.00 shipped.

Theres a few threads about the swap just search for them.

I have a .658 fith gear I never put in to my 5 speed and wast sure if I be OK with the big gap between 4th and 5th with the .658

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Glow plugs tested good with ohm meter. Starter was replaced before I got it. I put in a next size bigger AGM battery, 3 years old now. No bubbles in injector lines, they're transparent fuel lines. 5w40 rotella t6. Wire terminals didn't look corroded.

When it starts it usually blows some blue smoke, I replaced injectors but that didn't fix it. Will try the starting current check. Vehicle is due for a clutch replacement, I might just upgrade the wires. Vcds shows timing in Normal ranger if I read it correctlly

Super jealous. I drove around yesterday trying to get a feel for the 5th gear swap to see how it would work for me, and I don't think it would, I'd rather get much taller tires.. but you say 6 speed swap? Out of what? How easy to change? I need a clutch anyways

Looks like you've covered all the basics, time to dig deeper if you want to fix this.

Regarding the starter itself, the ground path is torturous to say the least.

Battery seems dead, but isn't?

before you go buying parts, get a darn multimeter Please read the OP's description of what is happening. I believe that the battery is fine. Ours, with the same symptom, is fine after a new starter was installed...

forums.tdiclub.com

I put a pair of 10AWG wires from the long bolts to the negative terminal of the battery when it was replaced as a precautionary measure.
When you're measuring voltage drops, make sure you measure from the back plate of the starter to the negative post of the battery.

Can you post a screen shot/picture of your timing chart in VCDS?

More involved, but it might be worth it to check the cam/crank timing as that has a significant effect on cranking compression.

Regarding the 6 speed swap - it doesn't sound/look like you're after high power/torque, pulling trailers, racing, etc (correct me if I'm wrong) so the added strength of a 6 speed isn't necessary. A 6 speed swap "all in" will run ~$5k + labor. Hyde7278's source at $1500 is a great price if everything is included, but costs can go up quickly if you need to replace the clutch/DMF, an axle, etc. If you need the additional torque capacity of the 02M, then that's a different discussion, but if you're looking for lower highway RPM's and better MPG's - it's really hard to justify the cost of the 02M (even at $1500).

Staying with the 02J 5 speed and going with a taller 5th gear + taller tires will cost $500 and deliver the same top gear cruising RPM's. The gap between 4th and a taller 5th is overdramatized in my opinion. Buy the unused 0.658 from Hyde7278, taller tires and drive it! I drove a 0.681 for over 100k miles and wouldn't even blink at going to a 0.658. Most of my daily 50 mile commute is in the 40-60 MPH range in suburban driving so a lot of driving in 4th and 5th gear.

Why do you think you need a new clutch?

 

[Rrusse11]

Norbert & fix_until_broke,

Having had a 02M 6spd and now a 02J 5spd, I personally think the 6spd is over rated. Throw in the factor of cost, and it's
a no-brainer in my book to stick with the 5spd. The cheapest way is go for bigger tires to get lower rpms at highway speeds.
With a .658 5th found it too big an rpm drop from 4th to 5th, you spend a lot of time downshifting. Some claim .685 is the "sweet spot", IBW for example is running a .700 with stock tires and loves it. For me and slightly oversize tires, I love my .717.
Here's a really handy calculator to help you with choices and options;

John Maher Racing » GEAR RATIO CALCULATOR

johnmaherracing.com

Your Mileage WILL Vary

 

[TurboABA]

Guys, everyone's use pattern and scenario is different. The OP is up here where the posted limit is 62mph! Depending on his typical use, he might be able to just get on the hwy and never shift once until he gets off it... Typical cruise speed would be 70mph before you start getting pinched by the authorities. He needs to sort out his exact needs vs what some of us may have, etc.

 

[JDSwan87]

Gave Stella a good bath yesterday and pulled her into the shop bay. She's getting a good bit of maintenance...

Diagnose rear brake light/turn signals
Diagnose brake light on dash illuminated
Replace crank sensor
Trans fluid drain/refill
Band-aid driver seat cover
Clean interior
Rotate tires
Grease CV axles (possibly replace)
New wiper blades (got 5 years out of these Bosch Icons!)
Rain x windshield
Fix paint chips
Air filter (if due)
Fuel filter (if due)
Cabin air filter (if due)

 

[Judson]

Not all 6 speeds are the same too. They go by codes and have different gears, gear spacing, and final drive ratios. DRW is what I have. Having the extra gear is great for highway cruising.

 

[Hyde7278]

Not all 6 speeds are the same too. They go by codes and have different gears, gear spacing, and final drive ratios. DRW is what I have. Having the extra gear is great for highway cruising.

was trying to get a DRW but had to get the ERF (isnt as tall, but only about 1 MPH diff at most RPMs then the DRW)
I HWY cruise between 80-85mph so the extra gear will be nice and even able to cruise back roads at 60+.

I saw in your sig that you have very simmilar mods to what Ill have and wanted to know hows the PD150 clutch holding up? The Kit I just bought comes with a used clutch so im looking to upgrade.

 

[Hyde7278]

Guys, everyone's use pattern and scenario is different. The OP is up here where the posted limit is 62mph! Depending on his typical use, he might be able to just get on the hwy and never shift once until he gets off it... Typical cruise speed would be 70mph before you start getting pinched by the authorities. He needs to sort out his exact needs vs what some of us may have, etc.

I cruise highway speeds at 80-85MPH so the 6 spd will be nice for me

 

[TurboABA]

Super jealous. I drove around yesterday trying to get a feel for the 5th gear swap to see how it would work for me, and I don't think it would, I'd rather get much taller tires.. but you say 6 speed swap? Out of what? How easy to change? I need a clutch anyways

I don't think you actually understand the 5th gear swap properly. Your 1-4 ratios don't change..... only your 5th. You increase the RPM drop from when you shift out of 4th into 5th.... so basically, you just need to rev higher in 4th vs what you are used to.

 

[TurboABA]

I cruise highway speeds at 80-85MPH so the 6 spd will be nice for me

Totally understand.... but based on living in "close proximity" to @norbert77 who we are attempting to guide, I have to make some assumptions in the absence of actual "keeping up with traffic" details given, and based on what I know about this area, he's more than likely trying to maintain 75mph because traffic doesn't flow at 85mph around here!

Visual since it might help someone.

 

[Hyde7278]

Totally understand.... but based on living in "close proximity" to @norbert77 who we are attempting to guide, I have to make some assumptions in the absence of actual "keeping up with traffic" details given, and based on what I know about this area, he's more than likely trying to maintain 75mph because traffic doesn't flow at 85mph around here!

Visual since it might help someone.

Thats a nice calculator do you mind sharing a link to it.

For me is the 6 spd economical or will it pay off in the end- NO but I like messing with my car and having 1 more gear to shift to so for me its worth it but as shown it is not the best for everyone.

 

[TurboABA]

Thats a nice calculator do you mind sharing a link to it.

Spicer Transmission Ratio RPM Calculator

Use the Spicer Transmission Ratio RPM Calculator to determine your engine’s RPM based on the transmission gear ratio, tire height, MPH, and ring and pinion gear ratio.

spicerparts.com

 

[benmarks]

I recently created this Google Sheets doc using all the info I could find from the workshop manual links, etc. for 02M/02Y (02Y is the 4Motion variant) transmissions except that I cleaned it up and removed any gas info. It lists all the gearbox ratios:

VW MK4 TDI 02M/02Y Gearbox Info

Sheet1 Manual gearbox,6-speed 02M, 02Y, all-wheel drive Identification code,DRV,FBS,FEK,FEM,FEL,ERG,ESW,FMQ,FMU Manufactured,from,3.99,2,10,10,10,9,4.01,5.03,5.03 to,10,10,9.01,9.01,5.03,10,5.03,6.06,6.06 Allocation,Model,Golf 4 MOTION 1999 ►,Golf 4 MOTION 1999 ►,Golf 4 MOTION 1999 ►,Golf 4 MOTI...

docs.google.com

 

[norbert77]

Totally understand.... but based on living in "close proximity" to @norbert77 who we are attempting to guide, I have to make some assumptions in the absence of actual "keeping up with traffic" details given, and based on what I know about this area, he's more than likely trying to maintain 75mph because traffic doesn't flow at 85mph around here!

Visual since it might help someone.

Yes sir, the 110km/h speed limit at 121 km on cruise control is 75mph.

 

[TurboABA]

You can't read off your speedo since you've already changed the final gearing. GPS speed only unless you go back to OEM tire size.

 

[KrashDH]

I thought the "kwTest" file (that you can pull your SKC from) that @gmenounos wrote could alter or adjust your tire size so you could get your speedo accurate, but I could be remembering wrong. Either way, even with a gear ratio change like that, couldn't you could just fake in the speed with a tire size to ensure your speedo is tracking right?

 

[norbert77]

You can't read off your speedo since you've already changed the final gearing. GPS speed only unless you go back to OEM tire size.

Never in my life have I bought proper size tires to just now, you can always use a GPS to figure out how much your speedometer is off and learn to live with it. Nothing like trying to figure out how far speedometer is off on a Chevy tracker with 35 inch tires