Not a picture expert. I used this style crank lock. Raised dimple in the bottom hole of the purple lock. Blue tape on cam lock pin.
B7 Audi A4 BHW swap
- Thread starter JDM_dieselwagon
- Start date
Not a picture expert. I used this style crank lock. Raised dimple in the bottom hole of the purple lock. Blue tape on cam lock pin.
White paint on mark you cant find at the top. White also on raised dimple.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Thanks for the pictures. I guess it doesn't matter if it's on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke for this?
Might want to double check my answer looking up BHW timing belt replacement.
Going from memory, the cam turns once to 2 turns of the crank.
I think if the cam is locked and the crank is locked you are in the right spot. That cam has to be pretty exact to get the stop pin all the way in. I used a drill bit for cam locking.
When you are done with the whole timing belt replacement, turn just the crank by hand/ratchet/breaker bar. Turn it several revolutions. More than 2. Only clockwise. If no lock up then good to go on to timing by VCDS.
Going from memory, the cam turns once to 2 turns of the crank.
I think if the cam is locked and the crank is locked you are in the right spot. That cam has to be pretty exact to get the stop pin all the way in. I used a drill bit for cam locking.
When you are done with the whole timing belt replacement, turn just the crank by hand/ratchet/breaker bar. Turn it several revolutions. More than 2. Only clockwise. If no lock up then good to go on to timing by VCDS.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Little more progress. All lobes, lifters, and bearings are badly worn except for the rear most lobe and lifter, number 8, which has no visible wear at all. I did a little dumb dumb and as a result I'm putting a new head gasket and head bolts in. At 350k kms it's probably a good idea to do while it's this easy anyway with how inexpensive the parts are.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
One of the alignment dowels was still in the head so in that picture it was resting on the dowel. Now it's been sitting back on the block since.
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JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
An update on the project; I'm currently out of province for a few weeks working so that pushed it back again. Once I get back I'll figure out what I'm doing with the head and then get the engine buttoned up. I got the "new" color gauge cluster back from @jetta 97 before I left so that part should be ready to install.
jetta 97
Vendor
Yes, I would put new Camshaft , Lifters and bearings. Remember Injector rockers and bearing cap bolts needs to be replaced ., total of 18 bolts .
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
*Update*
The engine in sitting on the stand, head ready to be bolted back down and top end assembled. I should have all the parts I need now for the car so it's just a matter of putting it all together. I've been working 6 days a week to get a project done by mid November. Once that's done I'll take some time to throw the car together and I'll have some more updates/pictures at that point. It's supposed to snow here over night so that'll help with some motivation for the Quattro lol
The engine in sitting on the stand, head ready to be bolted back down and top end assembled. I should have all the parts I need now for the car so it's just a matter of putting it all together. I've been working 6 days a week to get a project done by mid November. Once that's done I'll take some time to throw the car together and I'll have some more updates/pictures at that point. It's supposed to snow here over night so that'll help with some motivation for the Quattro lol
PickleRick
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Location
- Greenville sc
- TDI
- 05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Are the 05 and 06 BRM lifters and bearings the same as the BHW?
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Yes, they are the same. Assuming you're meaning the cam bearings and lifters.
PickleRick
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Location
- Greenville sc
- TDI
- 05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Yes. The come with the AMC kit along with cam seal and pd pump gasket.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Picking away at it here and there when I get a chance after work.
Removed the valves and cleaned them, along with the carbon built up in the ports. Reassembled with new valve seals.
Head is bolted back on and I'm ready to bolt down the cam and timing stuff.
Removed the valves and cleaned them, along with the carbon built up in the ports. Reassembled with new valve seals.
Head is bolted back on and I'm ready to bolt down the cam and timing stuff.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
I was working on putting the top end together last night and found that a couple of the oil gallery plugs had come out, one was stuck between the two rockers when I took them off but the other is missing completely. Maybe that had contributed to the bad cam wear due to the loss of oil pressure. I did some searching and found a post by @Franko6 about using an old cam cap bolt as a plug. I got the one plugged and now I'm planning to pull the other aluminum plugs out and make some more of these ones out of the old bolts. Thanks for the information on that thread of yours Frank.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
Thank you for your credit for the rocker galley repair...
When using the aluminum replacement 'pin' I make from OEM cam cap bolts, there is absolutely no need to hammer any punch mark into them. The barrel of the cam bolt is an interference fit by about .002". It's not coming out. If you brad the aluminum plugs, like you did on the steel plugs, they won't come out either. Correct bradding: with a center punch, strike the outside of the ring to drive metal over the plug. Three points is fine.
It's a shame to put an AMC cam back in. It will not make it 300k. Maybe 150k. At least, that is my experience. We can modify that AMC cam so it does work for a long time, but...
1. Every single PD motor's cam is exactly the same incorrect 'solid lifter' profile. That is the reason your lifters are dished. The cam design beat the lifters to pieces.
2. The cam followers do not oil correctly, causing oil starvation. We modify the bearings to double the oil volume to the cam followers and correctly oil the bearings themselves.
3. We also think a proper break-in will extend life expectancy, especially if the correctly formed cam lobes are made. We use Joe Gibbs BR and have lots of cams with very long life to prove it. Our current leader has an additional 475,000 MILES on it. That is over 764,000km AFTER the cam was installed.
Side note: Lithium grease is our LEAST FAVORITE assembly lube. If too much is used, you clog the filter and if it's left too long, it corrodes the metals.
There are a lot of good assembly lubes, but our favorite is also from Joe Gibbs. It is a grease that stays where you put it, but when it heats up, it melts into the oil, as it is an oil thickener. A 1oz tube is enough to assemble 10 engines. $3 USD.
One last bit... DO NOT tighten the injector hold down bolts all the way until you know your injectors are working correctly. We use 78 INCH lbs +1/4 turn, with the purpose of trying the engine out. If the injectors all work well, tighten the bolt another 1/4 turn. If the injectors do not work correctly, you can remove the hold down bolts (which are about $4 a piece.. We only use OEM for a good reason...), without ruining them. Once they get tightened to the final torque turn, you cannot reuse them. They will break off in the hole. We DO NOT tighten, as VW recommends, 3/4 turn unless you want to recoil the bolt threads that are going to pull out.
Our reasoning for not fully tightening the bolts: Often enough, the PD injectors lay around until the solenoid end 'glues shut'. If that happens, it starts easily, idles smoothly, but won't go over 35kmh. It costs plenty to revive a damaged solenoid, to the point replacement is a reasonable alternative. Storing injectors covered by diesel is a very good idea.
Best of luck to you... let me know if I can be of any additional service.
When using the aluminum replacement 'pin' I make from OEM cam cap bolts, there is absolutely no need to hammer any punch mark into them. The barrel of the cam bolt is an interference fit by about .002". It's not coming out. If you brad the aluminum plugs, like you did on the steel plugs, they won't come out either. Correct bradding: with a center punch, strike the outside of the ring to drive metal over the plug. Three points is fine.
It's a shame to put an AMC cam back in. It will not make it 300k. Maybe 150k. At least, that is my experience. We can modify that AMC cam so it does work for a long time, but...
1. Every single PD motor's cam is exactly the same incorrect 'solid lifter' profile. That is the reason your lifters are dished. The cam design beat the lifters to pieces.
2. The cam followers do not oil correctly, causing oil starvation. We modify the bearings to double the oil volume to the cam followers and correctly oil the bearings themselves.
3. We also think a proper break-in will extend life expectancy, especially if the correctly formed cam lobes are made. We use Joe Gibbs BR and have lots of cams with very long life to prove it. Our current leader has an additional 475,000 MILES on it. That is over 764,000km AFTER the cam was installed.
Side note: Lithium grease is our LEAST FAVORITE assembly lube. If too much is used, you clog the filter and if it's left too long, it corrodes the metals.
There are a lot of good assembly lubes, but our favorite is also from Joe Gibbs. It is a grease that stays where you put it, but when it heats up, it melts into the oil, as it is an oil thickener. A 1oz tube is enough to assemble 10 engines. $3 USD.
One last bit... DO NOT tighten the injector hold down bolts all the way until you know your injectors are working correctly. We use 78 INCH lbs +1/4 turn, with the purpose of trying the engine out. If the injectors all work well, tighten the bolt another 1/4 turn. If the injectors do not work correctly, you can remove the hold down bolts (which are about $4 a piece.. We only use OEM for a good reason...), without ruining them. Once they get tightened to the final torque turn, you cannot reuse them. They will break off in the hole. We DO NOT tighten, as VW recommends, 3/4 turn unless you want to recoil the bolt threads that are going to pull out.
Our reasoning for not fully tightening the bolts: Often enough, the PD injectors lay around until the solenoid end 'glues shut'. If that happens, it starts easily, idles smoothly, but won't go over 35kmh. It costs plenty to revive a damaged solenoid, to the point replacement is a reasonable alternative. Storing injectors covered by diesel is a very good idea.
Best of luck to you... let me know if I can be of any additional service.
vwztips
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2009
- Location
- Greenville, SC
- TDI
- 2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
Hello Frank, long time no talk. I thought you has moved to multiple use bolts for the cam caps and injector cam bolts. Have you changed back to VW bolts?
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Thanks for all the info @franko, if I need a cam in the future I know where to go. I just didn't want to throw too much money at this bhw yet and so for now I went with the cheaper replacement to get it up and running.
As for the injector hold down bolts, I didn't ever have them loosened and was hoping to just leave them as is if possible. Thank you for the heads up on that though.
As for the injector hold down bolts, I didn't ever have them loosened and was hoping to just leave them as is if possible. Thank you for the heads up on that though.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
JDM,
When the injectors aren't taken from the head, they seem to continue to work. Not sure I understand that, but the loss of the solenoid main pop is something to watch out for.
If there is reason to remove them, we caution that the method for holding them in leaves something to be desired. The single bolt through the hold down block does not push straight down. It pushes the injector body against the opposite side of the bore from the hold down bolt. This causes the body of the injector to vibrate against the injector bore, leaving a burr that will cut one or both of the top black rings on the injector. That will lose all your pressure from the tandem pump, sending it back to the return galley. If the top ring leaks, it's possible to thin your oil with fuel. The burr can be removed with some fine emery cloth or, as we do, a Bebielle 240 grit 60 flapper 1" x 1" wheel with a 1/4" shaft for a die grinder. The fine wheel will polish out the burr very nicely. 500 grit emery cloth will work, but it's slower.
vwztips,
I see two things wrong with using non-stretch bolts for the injector hold downs. First, the incident of pulling the threads out is increased, as the bolts being used do not have enough 'stretch' built into the metallurgy. The second part is the OEM bolts have a bevel under the bolt head to help even out the loading on the hold down block. I have had enough problems with in-frame repair of hold down bolts with it's stripped 6mm x 1.0 threads and stacked recoil kits. It's tedious and I'd rather not cause any more issues with a straight torque bolt. I know the OEM bolts are more expensive, but I really don't like repairing threads ripped out of a head.
I might mention, someone trying to drill out a 6 x 1.0 screw is one of the moments that you could wish to have left the bolt to a professional. Most often, the bolt breaks off even with the hole. The bolt end often can be slowly and carefully backed out, but the better idea is not to get into the situation that causes most of the breaks. Use OEM hold down bolts. Don't reuse them.
When the injectors aren't taken from the head, they seem to continue to work. Not sure I understand that, but the loss of the solenoid main pop is something to watch out for.
If there is reason to remove them, we caution that the method for holding them in leaves something to be desired. The single bolt through the hold down block does not push straight down. It pushes the injector body against the opposite side of the bore from the hold down bolt. This causes the body of the injector to vibrate against the injector bore, leaving a burr that will cut one or both of the top black rings on the injector. That will lose all your pressure from the tandem pump, sending it back to the return galley. If the top ring leaks, it's possible to thin your oil with fuel. The burr can be removed with some fine emery cloth or, as we do, a Bebielle 240 grit 60 flapper 1" x 1" wheel with a 1/4" shaft for a die grinder. The fine wheel will polish out the burr very nicely. 500 grit emery cloth will work, but it's slower.
vwztips,
I see two things wrong with using non-stretch bolts for the injector hold downs. First, the incident of pulling the threads out is increased, as the bolts being used do not have enough 'stretch' built into the metallurgy. The second part is the OEM bolts have a bevel under the bolt head to help even out the loading on the hold down block. I have had enough problems with in-frame repair of hold down bolts with it's stripped 6mm x 1.0 threads and stacked recoil kits. It's tedious and I'd rather not cause any more issues with a straight torque bolt. I know the OEM bolts are more expensive, but I really don't like repairing threads ripped out of a head.
I might mention, someone trying to drill out a 6 x 1.0 screw is one of the moments that you could wish to have left the bolt to a professional. Most often, the bolt breaks off even with the hole. The bolt end often can be slowly and carefully backed out, but the better idea is not to get into the situation that causes most of the breaks. Use OEM hold down bolts. Don't reuse them.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
I've been working on the car this week and got to a point where I'm a bit stuck. I had bought a DKM single mass clutch kit that was said to be for mating a vw tdi to an Audi transmission. I removed the 5.5mm spacer between engine and transmission as I was instructed to do and mated them together. When I tested the clutch, the pedal would "bottom out" ½ or ¾ of the way to the floor. I'm not sure what was bottoming out and not sure how to figure that part out now. According to my measurements from where the throw out bearing meets the pressure plate fingers with the clutch pedal OUT it only has 8mm of extension when pushing the pedal till the slave cylinder is fully extended. I don't know how much the throw out bearing moves when the pedal is pushed. Is 8mm enough to to reach fully disengaged? Could the "bottoming out" I felt be the point where the slave cylinder reaches full extension? I don't have any experience with the given circumstances and so any advice or recommendations what to do from this point would be appreciated.
Pictures showing the distance from the mating surface to the fingers and to the throw out bearing.
Pictures showing the distance from the mating surface to the fingers and to the throw out bearing.
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
What is the part visible from behind the clutch fork's pivot point? All of the pivots I've used on TDI's is a simple button that screws into the bellhousing and the retaining spring snaps over to hold the fork in place. It appears that part may be holding the clutch out further than it should.
I think the clutch pedal should go full range to the floor. Hydraulics that reach their limit will spike pressure, often disastrously.
I think the clutch pedal should go full range to the floor. Hydraulics that reach their limit will spike pressure, often disastrously.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
I can post a picture with the fork off later today. What you see there is just an extra support to pivot on but the usual pivot ball that you mention is also behind there. If I were to remove that support and just leave the ball the fork would sit in the same position.
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Franko6
Vendor , w/Business number
I've seen those before. Honestly, I can see that there is extra support with that device. I can see why it's done that way, but it's not required. And if you look closely, I have to say that the center pivot ball has not been touched, as the grease has not been disturbed, unless you did so after removing the fork. Only the two side pivot points are touching. The side pivot points appear to be nearly the same height as the top of the ball. It looks to me as if the fork would drop substantially with the alternative pivot device removed. Try it... what have you got to lose? Measure the distance again.
Is it possible that the slave cylinder is not retracting all the way? The Throw Out bearing should be very close to the inner face of the sliding sleeve. How far is it from the tip of the button to the flat of the attachment point? I'll measure what the distance is for one of mine.
It is Thanksgiving Day for us. I'll be somewhat remote. Best of luck...
Is it possible that the slave cylinder is not retracting all the way? The Throw Out bearing should be very close to the inner face of the sliding sleeve. How far is it from the tip of the button to the flat of the attachment point? I'll measure what the distance is for one of mine.
It is Thanksgiving Day for us. I'll be somewhat remote. Best of luck...
JDM_dieselwagon
Active member
Sorry for a month of no updates to anyone following. Got busy between work and working on the car. My goal was to have it driving by Christmas, and I got it! I've been driving the car since the 15th now. Left me stranded at work once but that was just a bad crank position sensor. I've put 2000 kms on it so far and very happy with how it all turned out! I'll have to take some time to upload the pictures I took of modifying the fuel system and the wire for the electric fan.
Out with the old wagon and in with it's awd replacement
A swap that looks like it's supposed to be there
As for the clutch problem, It was holding up the progress waiting for responses from DKM (delayed response because of Covid) so I just put it together anyway and figured I'd deal with it later by taking the tranny out if I had to. Got the swap done and started the car, pushed the clutch in to where it "stops" and it popped right into gear. So it fully releases and engages like it's supposed to but something still doesn't seem right because the pedal can't be pushed all the way to the floor. Sitting at a light I just throw it in neutral so I don't have to hold the pedal half way like that. I still need to figure it out with DKM because for the money I spent on the clutch I would think it should be 100%.
Out with the old wagon and in with it's awd replacement
A swap that looks like it's supposed to be there
As for the clutch problem, It was holding up the progress waiting for responses from DKM (delayed response because of Covid) so I just put it together anyway and figured I'd deal with it later by taking the tranny out if I had to. Got the swap done and started the car, pushed the clutch in to where it "stops" and it popped right into gear. So it fully releases and engages like it's supposed to but something still doesn't seem right because the pedal can't be pushed all the way to the floor. Sitting at a light I just throw it in neutral so I don't have to hold the pedal half way like that. I still need to figure it out with DKM because for the money I spent on the clutch I would think it should be 100%.
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binsr
Member
So I have a bhw donor and getting a 01e transmission from Europe with 0.56 6th. At first I really just wanted a b5.5 awd swap sedan or wagon but it seems impossible to find and when I do find them they are overpriced and clapped out…
Then I found a cheap - dead engine- 05 (b7) a4 manual. Now, what I am curious is on gearing. It seems your running like 225/65/17 based on photos (looked at your fb threads as well on TDI swapped trucks…). I assume you make up the high gearing with the bigger tires. I think mine with a final gear 0.56 should be fine. If I’m not mistaken the b7 2.0 came with the same 02x that you got and a final drive of 3.889? Both sedan and avant should be the same.
Then I found a cheap - dead engine- 05 (b7) a4 manual. Now, what I am curious is on gearing. It seems your running like 225/65/17 based on photos (looked at your fb threads as well on TDI swapped trucks…). I assume you make up the high gearing with the bigger tires. I think mine with a final gear 0.56 should be fine. If I’m not mistaken the b7 2.0 came with the same 02x that you got and a final drive of 3.889? Both sedan and avant should be the same.
vwztips
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2009
- Location
- Greenville, SC
- TDI
- 2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
If you are going the A4 B7 route, just get the 02x from the 2.0 gasser. That's what I have in my son's B7. He can get 40mpg with it. And they seem to seem to hold up better than the 01E
binsr
Member
What TDI engine is he running? At 2500 for the bhw with 02x in 6th and 205/55/16 (25inch) I’m looking at ~73mph. Don’t get me wrong, I’d save $600 not buying the 01e but I’m craving that final 0.56.
The B7 I’m looking at is already a 2.0 manual Quattro which, if not mistaken, came with the 02x already.
The B7 I’m looking at is already a 2.0 manual Quattro which, if not mistaken, came with the 02x already.
vwztips
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2009
- Location
- Greenville, SC
- TDI
- 2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
BHW. Yes the B7 came with 01X and 02X. His 02X is about the same as a FHN which is 62-63 @ 2000 RPM.
I put a 01X with a final drive of 3.3 and 6th gear 0.575 in my other son's B5.5 and he is seeing 78-79 @ 2000 RPM
I put a 01X with a final drive of 3.3 and 6th gear 0.575 in my other son's B5.5 and he is seeing 78-79 @ 2000 RPM
binsr
Member
Nice. I have yet to buy the B7, so I could opt out. I grew up in Easter Europe and owned two B5 gen Passats. I’m very familiar with the platform and always loved it. I have this BHW in the wagon sitting waiting for a new home. Planning on selling the auto in it -ZF 5hl-19 transmission (fully redone prior to me buying the car).
This is a fun project for me but trying to be frugal. I’m giving my mint mk6 CJAA to my dad since we’re getting an suv. I’ll then mostly drive my wife’s ‘20 Golf 1.4T gasser for daily errands and work - the thing gets 40 mpg with regular but no pep. I also have a 05 Tahoe hence why decided not to swap the bhw into a truck.
Anyways, waiting for a good deal. The plan was some sort of manual b5.5 awd platform with an 01e but it’s so much easier to find a cheap B7 manual with a dead 2.0. Any advice I’m all ears. Need a diesel in my life
This is a fun project for me but trying to be frugal. I’m giving my mint mk6 CJAA to my dad since we’re getting an suv. I’ll then mostly drive my wife’s ‘20 Golf 1.4T gasser for daily errands and work - the thing gets 40 mpg with regular but no pep. I also have a 05 Tahoe hence why decided not to swap the bhw into a truck.
Anyways, waiting for a good deal. The plan was some sort of manual b5.5 awd platform with an 01e but it’s so much easier to find a cheap B7 manual with a dead 2.0. Any advice I’m all ears. Need a diesel in my life
Fringeminority
Member
That would be a nice swap
I have a few questions about the 01e. I’m currently driving a BHW swapped 1998 a4 with a 01a ( the rpm’s are obviously way too high ) and was wondering what does it take to swap a 01e or a 02x? Does a person need different mounts and shafts or is it pretty much plug and play?
I have a few questions about the 01e. I’m currently driving a BHW swapped 1998 a4 with a 01a ( the rpm’s are obviously way too high ) and was wondering what does it take to swap a 01e or a 02x? Does a person need different mounts and shafts or is it pretty much plug and play?