Try slipping the boot off the CV joint, push the ends of the clamp together and slide it onto the boot (while still NOT on the CV joint), slide the boot back onto the joint with the clamp sitting in its grove in the boot, compress the clamp and check how tight the boot is. I have had some that seem loose and don't clamp tight. May just need whole boot replaced - EDIT: read too fast and missed the boot is tornHad the car up on jack stands to look at the leaking CV boot. At first I thought the boot just wasn't seated all the way, but eventually I was able to confirm that the boot is torn.
Unfortunately, I ran out of time before work, and realized I didn't have a 30mm 12-point for the axle nut. I tried to install the new locking ring/clamp which secures the boot to the hub for now, but - and this is embarrassing - could not for the life of me figure out how to get both tabs locked to secure it. FML. Hit it with a 1/4" zip tie and called it good enough to drive home on.
I think the right axle is aftermarket, and was replaced after a collision by the PO. Debating replacing the whole thing at this point - a few bolts seems a lot easier than getting that little metal ring closed!
Thanks, it was technically easy since all I used was a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder, but difficult in practice due to the unibody design. It took lots of test fitting and small cuts. I still cut off too much metal in a few spots and had to use filler instead of welding.Nice job !
How hard was it to get the rocker off?
Thanks Jason, I'll try that this weekend if the rain clears up. Luckily, I can commute to work by bike pretty easily so I don't really HAVE to drive my car daily.Try slipping the boot off the CV joint, push the ends of the clamp together and slide it onto the boot (while still NOT on the CV joint), slide the boot back onto the joint with the clamp sitting in its grove in the boot, compress the clamp and check how tight the boot is. I have had some that seem loose and don't clamp tight. May just need whole boot replaced - EDIT: read too fast and missed the boot is torn
Jason
PS: from the picture of the CV boot that looks OE or factory.
The way I described is how I do all my CV boot jobs. Most of the time the metal clip (band) WILL NOT snap together with the boot installed on the CV joint. Other way is to connect the ends together around the smaller part of the joint then slip it up over the edge of the boot. This method is obviously easier with the axle out.Thanks Jason, I'll try that this weekend if the rain clears up. Luckily, I can commute to work by bike pretty easily so I don't really HAVE to drive my car daily.
The boot seems pretty darn snug against the CV joint, and my issue seems to be that the clamp was too small for the joint itself - or that my hands were just too greasy. Every video I've seen, they just clip right on and then you tighten with a pair of pincer pliers. My clip was short about 2mm from this kind of action. Perhaps the boot it came with a bit thinner?
Maybe I'll pickup some metal zip ties like these and try again with the axle disconnected so I can get at the boot better. Certainly cheaper than a new axle, if I can get it done.
i drive snowtires even in summer. no changeover at all and my snowtires last about 3 1/2 yearsAre we getting snow this winter? What winter tires did you get?
Sexy vented liner. On either my B5 A4 or my 02 GTi (can't remember which) I cut out a window in the liner behind the intercooler and riveted in a louvered vent from Home Depot Motorsports, painted black.Ended up taking the car to a (new) shop on Friday to do the outer CV joint replacement, guy's hourly was reasonable and used the Febi-Bilstein kit I had bought from ID. I was just glad to have the CV joint re-greased and sealed up before this weekend's storms.
Today I installed my new fender liners which had been shredded by tire rub. The right one is the new Jetta City model with a vent for the intercooler - stoked on that. Replaced most of the plastic inserts, some of the metal clips, and some of the screws.
There was a hell of a lot of gunk behind the fender liners on both sides - I filled up a 3 liter oil catch pan with mud and debris.
Unfortunately, I left the new-to-me OEM mudflats at home, so I'll have to install those later this week. We don't have a driveway, so I do most of my work in the back lot at work.
Also adjusted my brake pads on the passenger side, to see if there was a difference between the two. I'm pretty sure the clips are in fact identical, but the car does seem to brake just a touch better now.
I left the foam block in place, but I'll be back in there to mount mudflats soon. Should I have gotten behind there? I assumed the foam was glued on, and if removed would be hard to replace.That is about typical...did you remember to get the foam block out that is at the top of the fender arch?
cheers,
Douglas
You want to remove and never replace the foam so your fender doesn't rust out there. You may not have the same issues as us "rust belt" guys but its still good practice.I left the foam block in place, but I'll be back in there to mount mudflats soon. Should I have gotten behind there? I assumed the foam was glued on, and if removed would be hard to replace.
Ah, gotcha. I did notice the foam was wet, but did not pull it. Maybe I can get at it with just the top two screws out next time.You want to remove and never replace the foam so your fender doesn't rust out there. You may not have the same issues as us "rust belt" guys but its still good practice.
Can you elaborate? I ordered a Kufatec harness and have done a ton of research, but haven't bought the heater yet. Where did you get the heater? Is yours an independent system from a wiring standpoint, or did you get it to show up in VCDS? Did you look into the wireless option for activating it with a VW-branded key fob?I didn't do this today, but 2 weeks ago. I finished installing my Webasto diesel coolant heater. I installed a timer so it automatically turns on 15 minutes before I leave for work and after work. This morning, it was only -5c outside, but when I started the car, temp gauge was right in the middle, hot air coming out of the vents. Plan to run it to keep heat in the engine while city driving too. It's a 5.2kW unit, so equivalent to about 3.5 1500w frost heaters, but no plug in required.
What filament type did you use? ABS?Decided to print myself a vent Pod for my 3rd gauge. 2 Are going on the column so I needed somewhere for the third.