Sputtering continues.

Lefty

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OK I replaced the MAF(needed), Replaced the return lines from the injectors(needed). Timed the IP. Then I changed the Fuel filter and bled it. Bled out the IP and then bled out the Injectors one at a time. Still the car sputters when I first start it when cold. Well it is 87 Degrees so not cold. Are there any other ideas on what makes this thing sputter on the first start? Last about 1 minute. Also I cleaned the Snow screen, not even dirty changed the Air filter(needed. I do have to say when I first opened all the injectors and turned it over I didn't see much spray at all. Then I started the car and opened them one at a time and got a lot of spray.
 

Mozambiquer

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OK I replaced the MAF(needed), Replaced the return lines from the injectors(needed). Timed the IP. Then I changed the Fuel filter and bled it. Bled out the IP and then bled out the Injectors one at a time. Still the car sputters when I first start it when cold. Well it is 87 Degrees so not cold. Are there any other ideas on what makes this thing sputter on the first start? Last about 1 minute. Also I cleaned the Snow screen, not even dirty changed the Air filter(needed. I do have to say when I first opened all the injectors and turned it over I didn't see much spray at all. Then I started the car and opened them one at a time and got a lot of spray.
Is this on the 2003 golf you have other threads about? I would check the injector IQ and timing. Also would check the cylinder deviation at idle. Does it do it again if you start it, then shut it off and restart it? Its also possible you could have fuel bleeding back from a leaking fuel line or injector pump.
 

Lefty

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Is this on the 2003 golf you have other threads about? I would check the injector IQ and timing. Also would check the cylinder deviation at idle. Does it do it again if you start it, then shut it off and restart it? Its also possible you could have fuel bleeding back from a leaking fuel line or injector pump.
No this is a 2000 Jetta. I checked and set the Timing on the IP. Don't know how to check IQ nor the Cylinder deviation. Will look on youtube for those procedures. And yes if I start it and it is doing that I can restart it and it still does that. It is the first time I start the car for the day or if I have left it for a long time and then start it again. The return lines have all been replaced.
 

Mozambiquer

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No this is a 2000 Jetta. I checked and set the Timing on the IP. Don't know how to check IQ nor the Cylinder deviation. Will look on youtube for those procedures. And yes if I start it and it is doing that I can restart it and it still does that. It is the first time I start the car for the day or if I have left it for a long time and then start it again. The return lines have all been replaced.
Ok, does it have an extended crank as well?
 

Lefty

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No this is a 2000 Jetta. I checked and set the Timing on the IP. Don't know how to check IQ nor the Cylinder deviation. Will look on youtube for those procedures. And yes if I start it and it is doing that I can restart it and it still does that. It is the first time I start the car for the day or if I have left it for a long time and then start it again. The return lines have all been replaced.
Cylinder deviation checked out fine.
Ok, does it have an extended crank as well?
No it starts right up it takes about 2-3 seconds after it starts to sputter.
 

Mozambiquer

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Cylinder deviation checked out fine.

No it starts right up it takes about 2-3 seconds after it starts to sputter.
What is the injector iq set at?
 

Mozambiquer

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I believe it was 2.6 on the scale. Which means it is too low.?
That would be too high, which will cause a sputtering on idle. (Lower the number, higher the fueling) you'll need to do the hammer mod to raise that number up a bit. Do you know if it's still stock injectors?
 

Lefty

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That would be too high, which will cause a sputtering on idle. (Lower the number, higher the fueling) you'll need to do the hammer mod to raise that number up a bit. Do you know if it's still stock injectors?
Not stock injectors. Trying to Remember I believe they are 520's.I had a bunch of work done on it several years ago and had him put those Bosio 520's in. Not sure if it was the Power Plus or the regular ones.
 
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Mozambiquer

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Not stock injectors. Trying to Remember I believe they are 520's.I had a bunch of work done on it several years ago and had him put those Bosio 520's in. Not sure if it was the Power Plus or the regular ones.
If I remember correctly, 520s should be right around 5-6 on the IQ in order to run the best.
 

Lefty

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That would be too high, which will cause a sputtering on idle. (Lower the number, higher the fueling) you'll need to do the hammer mod to raise that number up a bit. Do you know if it's still stock injectors?
OK I got up the nerve and tried the hammer mod. Went from 2.6-2.8 down to 1.2, Went the other direction, 13.5 then back again and again and again. Got it sitting on 4.2 steady. Fuel came pouring out once. Hope that doesn't harm the seals any. ALl tightened down and hopefully in the morning it will start and run better. Talked to my mechanic and told him what I was doing. He asked me how many miles on my car. Told him 430k He thinks the pump may need replaced. I will not put that much more money into this car. It already needs another timing belt.
 

Mozambiquer

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OK I got up the nerve and tried the hammer mod. Went from 2.6-2.8 down to 1.2, Went the other direction, 13.5 then back again and again and again. Got it sitting on 4.2 steady. Fuel came pouring out once. Hope that doesn't harm the seals any. ALl tightened down and hopefully in the morning it will start and run better. Talked to my mechanic and told him what I was doing. He asked me how many miles on my car. Told him 430k He thinks the pump may need replaced. I will not put that much more money into this car. It already needs another timing belt.
If anything, you may have to replace those top seals, but that isn't very hard to do, there are several threads on how to do them. Those pumps last quite a while.
Let us know how the sputtering is when you start it again.
 

Lefty

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Thanks for all your help. Fingers crossed.
Up early this morning and went out and started the car. Sputtered only a fraction of what it did before. Cleared out within 10 seconds instead of a minute or so. Will bleed the air out of the IP and injectors again since I had fuel leaking that one time.
 

jmodge

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If it starts, bleeding isn’t necessary. Keep leaning it out, raising the IQ number by lowering the value number in vcds.
 

Mozambiquer

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Up early this morning and went out and started the car. Sputtered only a fraction of what it did before. Cleared out within 10 seconds instead of a minute or so. Will bleed the air out of the IP and injectors again since I had fuel leaking that one time.
That's good! Yup, lean it out a little more, maybe closer to 6-7 and see what that does
 

jmodge

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Bring it up to almost 2k rpm in 2nd gear and put the wood to it through the gears. A light haze from your exhaust is what you’re looking for. If you’re blowing Blacksmoke it’s still too rich
 

Lefty

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Bring it up to almost 2k rpm in 2nd gear and put the wood to it through the gears. A light haze from your exhaust is what you’re looking for. If you’re blowing Blacksmoke it’s still too rich
Restarted it after it sat a long time. one tiny sputter.(tach moved about 100 rpms once only) Took it out and did what you said. No smoke of any kind coming out. I got it home and revved the engine in neutral and let up once it hit 5200 RPMs. No smoke there either. Looks good enough for now. Cold weather might make a difference. JUST so everyone knows this car has been driven almost exclusively on the highways. My Mechanic even could tell when he saw the intake last time I had the timing belt done.
 

jmodge

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look up TDI diesel purge and see what you think of that. Running straight on Liquimoly
 

Lefty

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OK I replaced the MAF(needed), Replaced the return lines from the injectors(needed). Timed the IP. Then I changed the Fuel filter and bled it. Bled out the IP and then bled out the Injectors one at a time. Still the car sputters when I first start it when cold. Well it is 87 Degrees so not cold. Are there any other ideas on what makes this thing sputter on the first start? Last about 1 minute. Also I cleaned the Snow screen, not even dirty changed the Air filter(needed. I do have to say when I first opened all the injectors and turned it over I didn't see much spray at all. Then I started the car and opened them one at a time and got a lot of spray.
OK after all the things I have done it looks like it is still sputtering in the morning when it is colder out.
 

jmodge

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Kind of hard to decipher what you mean by sputter, does the rpm fluctuate?
 

jmodge

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If it is starting with a bump of the key, it most likely not fuel related. Sounds like timing. Check your cold start timing actual and specified in advanced measuring blocks. You can also go to “output tests” to cycle your advance solenoid to see if it moving smoothly. Sounds like it starts and runs fine other than that?
 

Lefty

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If it is starting with a bump of the key, it most likely not fuel related. Sounds like timing. Check your cold start timing actual and specified in advanced measuring blocks. You can also go to “output tests” to cycle your advance solenoid to see if it moving smoothly. Sounds like it starts and runs fine other than that?
How do you get to advanced measuring blocks? I did just notice the MAF specified is 280 and the actual is 490-500.
 

jmodge

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“Adv Meas Values” link is on the same “engine” page as meas blocks
 

jmodge

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I don’t see where you mentioned checking basic timing, did you do that from the graph in measuring blocks 000?
 

jmodge

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In advanced measuring blocks you can watch several fields at once. Keep an eye on your injection quantity, and start of injection actual unspecified when that is going on.
 
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