What did you do to your MKIV today?

03TDICommuter

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Location
So. Cal
TDI
01' NB, 5spd
Some of that 3M double sided tape works really well...once you stick that stuff to something, whatever you stick it to and stick on it isn't coming off...ever. Not without a fight at least.
Especially the VHB stuff they make. It's essentially permanent.
 

MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
good to know. I've not used the tape yet. sounds strong. speaking of strong stuff I tested some adhesive we use in making aircraft wing skin layups and the other day one .5" x 1" lap sheer sample withstood over 5000 lbf on an Instron tensile pull. It's truly amazing how strong adhesives can be!
Some of that 3M double sided tape works really well...once you stick that stuff to something, whatever you stick it to and stick on it isn't coming off...ever. Not without a fight at least.
.
 

gmenounos

Vendor
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Location
Watertown, MA, USA
TDI
'99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
Fixed the blend doors on the wagon. Used the 3D-printed plugs instead of tape or foam. Unfortunately that didn't fix the weak AC so the next step will be replacing the RCV in the compressor.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Some of that 3M double sided tape works really well...once you stick that stuff to something, whatever you stick it to and stick on it isn't coming off...ever. Not without a fight at least.
I learned that when installing the side wings/spoilers on the hatch glass of my Mk7: set them in place on the glass ever so lightly - literally just resting there - then decided / wanted to make a tiny adjustment; not a chance! Either the glass is coming off the hatch, or the wing is snapping into pieces - but the adhesive is not leaving either the glass or the plastic.
 

Andyinchville1

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Location
Virginia
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI wagon, 5 sp, 226K miles
Changed oil just now ....

30,830 miles on the extended oil change (last changed 12-30-20) .... will have oil analysis done to see how it did.

I was estimating I would be near 35K by now but I forgot he car was down a bit for repairs (wheel bearing) and a couple other small things awhile back and mechanics were hard to come by at the time so I had to drive the minivan.

Andrew
 

MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
Changed oil just now ....

30,830 miles on the extended oil change (last changed 12-30-20) .... will have oil analysis done to see how it did.

I was estimating I would be near 35K by now but I forgot he car was down a bit for repairs (wheel bearing) and a couple other small things awhile back and mechanics were hard to come by at the time so I had to drive the minivan.

Andrew
Andrew, will you share that analysis with us? I'm interested in the results. What are you hoping for, or expecting, in ppm to consider it a success? I have 8500 on this last change with Rotella T6 and was considering going to 10k or more. What about the condition of the oil regarding viscosity and shear damage etc, is that something you will be able to know too?.
 

Andyinchville1

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Location
Virginia
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI wagon, 5 sp, 226K miles
Andrew, will you share that analysis with us? I'm interested in the results. What are you hoping for, or expecting, in ppm to consider it a success? I have 8500 on this last change with Rotella T6 and was considering going to 10k or more. What about the condition of the oil regarding viscosity and shear damage etc, is that something you will be able to know too?.
Hi

Yes, I'd be happy to share the results when I get them back .... I have been using Blackstone Labs but I'm sure there are many other companies out there.

Somewhere on this site I posted a lab report of one of my previous extended oil changes if youd like to see one of my other oil change results .... I think that was "only" about a 23-25K or so OCI. (it may have been in the oil reports thread)

If I recall correctly , everything was pretty much "ok" ..... the viscosity was deemed to be a little in question but it was ultimately my fault since I told the lab the incorrect starting viscosity .... I updated that with them and they did another report saying everything then was "fine" tho. ( I have been using Rotella T6 in the blue gallon jugs (full synthetic for diesels) .... At the time of me sending in the report I thought I was using 5W40 BUT I was actually using 15 w40 so that is why the lab said my viscosity was a little thick ..... I really have to pay attention to this because when I was changing oil today one jug in the shed was 15w40 when I wanted the 5w40! .... I'll have to see if they'll let me do an oil jug swap out.

I think I had them do their more detailed tests which included stuff like soot, and TBN which I think is the amount of additives left in the oil (the stuff the protects the engine and keeps soot in suspension etc etc....).

As far as what I would consider a "win" ... I'm not sure I have specific numbers , ..... I just don't want to have any bad numbers (hopefully!).

as a word of warning to people trying longer extended OCI , Make sure you car is in good shape (esp no leaky injectors or partially (?) blown head gaskets) and I just want to say that my driving is probably NOT normal .... I drive long distances , very seldom idle or shut off the car and don't really push the car too hard (except for the occasional Itallian Tune up to keep the turbo vanes freed up).

Hope this helps and I'll post results when I get them back

Andrew
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Decided it was time to figure out why the radiator fans were causing a lot of vibration - like they were terribly unbalanced.
Think I found the issue. :)


Replaced it with a fan on which I'd previously opened up the motor to free up the brushes - everything's smooth (well, "diesel smooth") again.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
What did I do... @alphaseinor helped me install a new amplifier in my Golf over the weekend. I had to deal with more dealer f**kups. Someone decided to impact the 6mm hex bolts on the harmonic balancer. Only one came out with a 12mm 12 point hammered on. The other three ended up having to be cut out with a heavy duty Dremel cutoff wheel (and it now has my 2003's harmonic balancer in its place). Did the timing belt, and made the mistake of upgrading to an 11mm pump and forgetting how much of a b!tch it is to prime. I can't do the same amount of work in the same time I could before my accident. I ended up working at it from about 6pm until 3am, and then finally got the car started now (with the original 10mm pump, after advancing the timing on the IP some).

The old belt was probably from 2012, judging by the date codes on the large roller/tensioner. So at least I know I did the timing belt a-okay (my second on an ALH, first doing it 100% solo without help).

I'll probably put on the 11mm injection pump another day, when it's not 85 degrees and 70% humidity.
 

MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
I use a few different tricks to remove stubborn hardware. My favorite is the soak, shock with hammer, heat, soak, followed by head strike with a cape chisel at an angle on the head.

Knock on wood I have not had to drill out a bolt in years, But sometimes you lose hours, or even days, because of fatigue or time lost on an already large project planned to be gone through at an expected time,.. AND you end up destroying good hardware. It's just amazing how many professionals don't actually use torque specs and opt for the fast or easy air impact.

edit: Understand this,,.. you are NOT a professional if you do this... unless you know just how to control the impact amount, you just make money at other people's expense".
 
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MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
I'm sorry about the rant in 6942, certainly not true of all professionals, and especially not true of the ones on this site I'm sure. There is a proper place and use for impacts and I could have mentioned that.:rolleyes: I like to use them for removal of hardware and running hardware in until they are close. But I don't like finishing with them often.
 

Stupendous60

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Location
.
TDI
.
pkhoury - you need one of these...for those balancer bolts and anything else that doesn't want to come loose - rotor screws, valve cover bolts, etc.

You can also use a cheap extension with the hex bit on the end and a 2lb hammer - swing like you mean it a few times and they'll come off easily.

Huh, I've not seen these, looks handy.
 

Stupendous60

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Location
.
TDI
.
pkhoury - you need one of these...for those balancer bolts and anything else that doesn't want to come loose - rotor screws, valve cover bolts, etc.

You can also use a cheap extension with the hex bit on the end and a 2lb hammer - swing like you mean it a few times and they'll come off easily.

Huh, I've not seen these, looks handy.
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
I like that air hammer bit. It looks like they're all offered in .401 size...have to get one as stuff like the rear caliper allen bolts are usually a serious risk to the time budget( especially in Michigan ). Probably best not to take the 7x rivet hammer to that job... :D
cheers,
Douglas
 

Judson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
Cheyenne, WY
TDI
2001 Jetta
Last night was the first time ever got to 700 miles on a tank. It was right after the fuel light came on and before I exited for gas. She took 15 gallons.

This tank includes a trip down to Boulder, up and over Loveland Pass and then over to Steamboat Springs via Rabbit Ears, then back over Rabbit Ears through Walden, over another pass to Laramie and then the relatively small pass (1,500 foot climb) back to Cheyenne, then a few trips around town, then finally down I-85 to Greeley and back via I-25. I filled up in Wellington. 47mpg.

and this is with the 1752vrk too...

My 17” Longbeaches cost me 2.5mpg so if I swapped out these for something lighter I would get even better but I love my new tires so maybe in five years....
 

MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
Last night was the first time ever got to 700 miles on a tank. It was right after the fuel light came on and before I exited for gas. She took 15 gallons.

This tank includes a trip down to Boulder, up and over Loveland Pass and then over to Steamboat Springs via Rabbit Ears, then back over Rabbit Ears through Walden, over another pass to Laramie and then the relatively small pass (1,500 foot climb) back to Cheyenne, then a few trips around town, then finally down I-85 to Greeley and back via I-25. I filled up in Wellington. 47mpg.

and this is with the 1752vrk too...

My 17” Longbeaches cost me 2.5mpg so if I swapped out these for something lighter I would get even better but I love my new tires so maybe in five years....
47 mpg and tires you like sounds like a win to me, and even with some elevation thrown in there. I've often wondered if the elevation up and down cancels each other out. But I think the uphill grade probably wins some and hurts FE. I have never had my jetta on a long highway trip to even know. All my driving is down 1500 elevation and then back up. and getting 46- 48 mpg.
 

Judson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
Cheyenne, WY
TDI
2001 Jetta
Yeah I really like the look of the longbeaches. Mine have some curb rash and need to be cleaned up but otherwise....

it just goes to show that if you care to spend the money, you can double stock hp/tq, get stock turbo response and still get excellent fuel economy with these cars.
 

P2B

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Location
Toronto & Muskoka, Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta, 2003 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon
Greeted by a nasty noise from the belt area on arriving home from a day trip. Serpentine belt tensioner is bouncing in time to the grinding. Grabbed the long 15mm and slowly release tension on the belt, alternator stops first and so does the racket - so it's a bad alternator pulley.

I have a spare pulley but someone borrowed my Metalnerd tool a while ago and hasn't returned it. I need the car tomorrow and I also have a spare alternator so resign myself to an alternator swap in my driveway in the dark. Didn't get done until nearly 2am after fighting rusted fasteners to drop the small fan out of the way.

The weird thing is the bad pulley sounds and feels fine when turned by hand, and still free wheels backwards.

Lesson learned - change your alternator pulley with every timing belt change. I skipped it last TB change and only got another 25,000km before failure.

Simon
 

sriracha

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Location
805
TDI
2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
Drove the wagon 250 miles today. During a brief stop on a secluded off/on-ramp, I listened to the diesel motor idle, from the outside. The BEW in my wagon just purrs like a sewing machine. It sounds so smooth. These cars are fun to drive. I wish it had a 6 speed, but having the 5-speed keeps me out of trouble with all the CHP trolling.
 

ssaric1.9TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Location
Atlanta
TDI
2013 VW Passat TDI, 2003 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
I had a spare grill sitting in my garage from an old wrecked Jetta so I decided to paint it black. Not bad for spray can paint job. Now I can switch back and forth from gray to black.

 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Got in, rolled the windows down to cool it off inside, rolled the windows back up. When the drivers side window got all the way up, I heard a clank, rattle, clunk as something fell down inside the door.

Got home, took the interior panel off and noticed the rear window clip was broken.


This window has been making a bit of a clunk when it hits the bottom for the last few years and also makes a squeek-squeek-squeek-squeek sound as it rolls up/down.

Is this a replace the whole regulator thing or are just the clips available? I did some searching but everything seems to be about the old plastic clips and getting them fixed under warranty, nothing about the metal ones.

I rolled the window back up and put it all back together - I left the window switch unplugged so I don't forget :)
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Got in, rolled the windows down to cool it off inside, rolled the windows back up. When the drivers side window got all the way up, I heard a clank, rattle, clunk as something fell down inside the door.

Got home, took the interior panel off and noticed the rear window clip was broken.


This window has been making a bit of a clunk when it hits the bottom for the last few years and also makes a squeek-squeek-squeek-squeek sound as it rolls up/down.

Is this a replace the whole regulator thing or are just the clips available? I did some searching but everything seems to be about the old plastic clips and getting them fixed under warranty, nothing about the metal ones.

I rolled the window back up and put it all back together - I left the window switch unplugged so I don't forget :)
Sounds like you just fixed it to me. I had to fix my drivers door before and it turned out the metal clip it just loosened up. I’m pretty sure you can just get a clip from the junkyard
 

Andyinchville1

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Location
Virginia
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI wagon, 5 sp, 226K miles
Rotated my tires .... thinking how nice a lift for home use would be but managed to get by with just a couple of floor jacks and jackstands.

One wheel was hard to remove so this go-around I wirebrushed the wheels and put some aluminum antiseize on them keep them from sticking for the next go-around.

Hoping to go a several more weeks before having to get new tires what kind of looking forward to getting the new bigger tires (215 75 r15).

But really wishing I could find one more Volk te37 wheel before having to change tires so I could have the new tires mounted on a full set of those Wheels rather than having to pay to have them dismounted remounted and rebalance later.
 

MukGyver

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Location
Sierra Ca
TDI
2004 Jetta PD
One wheel was hard to remove so this go-around I wirebrushed the wheels and put some aluminum antiseize on them keep them from sticking for the next go-around.
Not sure if you were referring to the lugnuts. I do the same b4 putting lug nuts back on with antiseize. A lot of resistance comes from the spherical surface contacting the rim. Also, with aluminum rims tightening them in the cold can be a booger later removing them in the Summer due to ALUM expansion/ contraction. The opposite can be true tightening them in the Summer. I've found some only marginally tight when the cold hits.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Fixed the blend doors on the wagon. Used the 3D-printed plugs instead of tape or foam. Unfortunately that didn't fix the weak AC so the next step will be replacing the RCV in the compressor.
I'm curious which 3D printed plugs you used. My friend @alphaseinor sells these on ebay. And I didn't know the Sanden in a Mk4 had an RCV. Mine crapped the bed after draining and refilling it, and we (@alphaseinor again) found that there was WAY too much PAG in the system. Put in a compressor for the junkyard, and useed R134a, and it works fantastic. I do need to replace the RCV in my Sportwagen, however...
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Only two questions - where does the license plate mount when you're towing? And why weld, when there are factory mounting holes for the Bosal/Westphalia tow bars? I've towed 3000+ on a regular basis and never had problems with the factory mount holes in over 100K miles of towing, though I'd imagine welding would be a lot stronger (with good welds).
 
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