What did you do to your MKIV today?

ItAintRodKnock

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2008
Location
Fraggle Rock, CO
TDI
01GolfTDi
I didn't have to adjust mine after the initial install and that was 5+ years ago
plus a new set of rear calipers/pads in the middle.
10-4, looks like I'll have to schedule a different time to do the center console plastics and E-brake handle.

OEM tdi calipers, or upgraded to GLI/GTI ones?

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Nero Morg

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Location
OR
TDI
2014 A6 TDI, 2001 Jetta TDI, 2014 Passat TDI
Hauled a replacement 1.6 16v suzuki engine in the back home with the wagon. Love the large cargo space. Scangauge said 37mpg for that trip to pick n pull and back.
 

ItAintRodKnock

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2008
Location
Fraggle Rock, CO
TDI
01GolfTDi
Okay, quick question(turned into longer post) about the "GLI pedals"

The "dead pedal" A.K.A. foot rest spot, seemed to not fit over my OEM black plastic foot rest. Stupid me left the plastic base because it *looked* like the one in my car....
DO I NEED THE GLI STYLE, *BLACK PLASTIC*, DEAD PEDAL BASE TO MOUNT IT?
Anyone have direct knowledge about these brushed aluminum pedal pieces?
The Gas, Brake and Clutch all fit will. Simply the largest piece wont slide onto my black plastic so I can mount it...

A second question is, does anyone know if the rubber part on the pedals can be replaced as new? Googled the part number molded on it and nothing came up. I would like to replace the clutch pedal as it is pretty warn.

Also, did they sell 6 speed new beetles? That's what these parts came off, car felt like it had a sixth, although I easily couldve mistaken it for fourth. I reached across the car to test it. May see if the calipers are all GLI/20th and consider the upgrade.

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Caddy 16v

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Location
Hazelton, BC
TDI
2000 Jetta, 2000 Golf
Filled up the '03 Jetta last Monday with fuel, 2nd fillup with no 5th gear. Pretty happy to see the mpg at 44.2, previous one was 44.1. This is with my son driving it, as his '05 Duramax is still at the shop for the head gasket repair:mad:-his original quote of $4500 went out the door when 4 injectors broke trying to remove them and the glow plugs were trouble coming out of head. New total is $9500 including tax:mad::mad::mad:....
I can feel your/ his pain with that $$$, I did it myself 2 years ago after a $4500 to $7000 quote. Ended up being $2000 in parts since I used ARP head studs and around 70h of my own time spread out over 10 days.

Wouldn't want to do it again but also wouldn't want to pay someone the $$$ lol.

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RexNICO

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Location
South West OH
TDI
2011 Tiguan, 2011 Q7
Going to try to get back there today, I am pretty sure i need that plastic piece.

NICE! I'll have to take a closer look at this 2002 beetle.
You should be able to use your plastic base, you’d just need to trim the bottom left angled edge.
If you can get the piece off the beetle for cheap, it’s probably worth it to get it.
Is it a Turbo S Beetle?
 

ItAintRodKnock

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2008
Location
Fraggle Rock, CO
TDI
01GolfTDi
You should be able to use your plastic base, you’d just need to trim the bottom left angled edge.
If you can get the piece off the beetle for cheap, it’s probably worth it to get it.
Is it a Turbo S Beetle?
No badging. 2002, 6 speed 1.8t
Front brakes look larger, rear brakes look small like mine.
Also, there is a 2006GLI; are THOSE brakes(and front hub assembly id assume) swappable onto the mk4 ('01) golf. I doubt it, but figured id ask you knowledgeable folks.

Looks like about 3/16th"x 2 1/2" needs trimming off the left lower side. Thanks for letting me know!! You guys know it all.
I paid $4(entry and plastic) for the one off the beetle, I recognized it was trimmed before i left the yard. Also got a clean, small blockoff panel for the center dash.

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Rrusse11

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Location
PA Deutsch Country
TDI
2002 Golf, 5spd; 05 Jeep CRD
RodKnock,
I'd recommend grabbing the front brakes off the "02 beetle, and the spindle.
For rears, look for a vented rotor, they aren't much bigger than your
standard rotor, IIRC the increase in diameter is 245mm vs 232.
The key is to get the caliper AND the carriers.

The fronts are well worth it for the improvement in braking, the larger
rears are the icing on the cake if you can find 'em. Balances braking
bias, transformational IMO with both.
Good luck!
 

tom2turbo

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2016
Location
Portland
TDI
2004 Jetta TDI Wagon
My son came up from San Diego and helped me with a few minor exterior fixems. Bianca looks better than ever.
 

RexNICO

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Location
South West OH
TDI
2011 Tiguan, 2011 Q7
No badging. 2002, 6 speed 1.8t
Front brakes look larger, rear brakes look small like mine.
Also, there is a 2006GLI; are THOSE brakes(and front hub assembly id assume) swappable onto the mk4 ('01) golf. I doubt it, but figured id ask you knowledgeable folks.

Looks like about 3/16th"x 2 1/2" needs trimming off the left lower side. Thanks for letting me know!! You guys know it all.
I paid $4(entry and plastic) for the one off the beetle, I recognized it was trimmed before i left the yard. Also got a clean, small blockoff panel for the center dash.

Turbo S is usually easiest to identify as it has fog lights in the front bumper close to the head lights. A google search (images) will show you what I'm talking about.
The fronts are for sure bigger than the TDI stock brakes (281 vs 388 or 312), but require the hub/spindle/knuckle and caliper carrier.
I think the rears on the 6 speed Beetle is the only 6 speed gasser turbo that did not get the vented (256x22 vs 232x9) rear set-up. Again, you'd want both the caliper and carrier.
It should also have high/square bolster seats, most likely in a 2 tone leather configuration.
I'm not a 100% sure, but the pancake pipe and inter-cooler might be an upgrade for you.
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Picked up IBW at the body shop. New fenders and rockers repaired


Ready to continue to 500K miles!
 

Dh4276

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2006 Golf GLS TDI, BEW
Just dropped the new lift pump in the golf, I now hear a noise from back there I’ve never had before in this car!

Good to know it supposed to make that noise!


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gforce1108

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Location
Newburgh, NY
TDI
04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
Just dropped the new lift pump in the golf, I now hear a noise from back there I’ve never had before in this car!

Good to know it supposed to make that noise!


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I bought my 04 back in 06. The pump was dead when I bought it and I didn't know it. At that point, everyone said it wouldn't run without it. I ran it about 10 years before replacing it. Very noticeable squishy noise now :)
 

romad

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2011
Location
Prescott, AZ
TDI
2005 Jetta GLS Wagon "Cranberry"
Is it supposed to run all the time? I bought my '05 back in '11 and I only hear a short buzz or whir when I first turn the ignition switch to the "On" position.
 

Dh4276

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2006 Golf GLS TDI, BEW
I bought my 04 back in 06. The pump was dead when I bought it and I didn't know it. At that point, everyone said it wouldn't run without it. I ran it about 10 years before replacing it. Very noticeable squishy noise now :)

It sure is a nice sound to hear now! Noticed that it did start a little quicker when I went out for my test drive after fixing boost leak again.

Wrong adapter came in I was gonna use, found the new seal I had placed on the pipe actually blew out a chunk, which was my leak again. Found an o-ring that fit nicely and was a good tight fit. No code now again. Correct adapter will be in Friday.


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Nero Morg

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Location
OR
TDI
2014 A6 TDI, 2001 Jetta TDI, 2014 Passat TDI
Is it supposed to run all the time? I bought my '05 back in '11 and I only hear a short buzz or whir when I first turn the ignition switch to the "On" position.
It does a prime at initial key on, then after the engine is running it runs all the time. Least that's what the one in my car does.
 

Dh4276

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2006 Golf GLS TDI, BEW
It does a prime at initial key on, then after the engine is running it runs all the time. Least that's what the one in my car does.

Based on the test process that is what I understand as well. I did notice a difference in hard acceleration after the install. No longer have a surging when under hard acceleration.


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kennybtdi

New member
Joined
Mar 11, 2020
Location
Michigan
TDI
Jetta 2003 1.9T
Pulled off my front and rear bumper, after i cleaned out the paint booth at work. Super excited to paint the entire vehicle soon!
 

Studs

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Location
Chicago
TDI
2003 Golf 4D/ GL
INDIGO BLUE WAGON : I am wondering what front fenders you went with ? OEM or aftermarket ?

Thanks,

Steve
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
OEM. This time they painted and used additional undercoating on the insides before installing. The ones they pulled (also OE) started to rust through in 6 years. Disappointing.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
...
On mine (307k at the time) - the VNT internals were just worn out. ... But - that's when I was able to feel the VNT better. There was a good amount of movement before it actually did anything internal. ...
Are you talking about feeling the actuator lever move, or what? I can't see that there would be anything in the vanes that you could feel since they're within the exhaust scroll.

I've tried a couple of chemical cleans on mine and it isn't doing much of anything. The actuator moves correctly. I can't find any other thing. My problem is underboost, but I can't find a boost leak.

I'm still scratching my head, and the scabs are getting irritated.
 

GlowBugTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2018
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Are you talking about feeling the actuator lever move, or what? I can't see that there would be anything in the vanes that you could feel since they're within the exhaust scroll.



I've tried a couple of chemical cleans on mine and it isn't doing much of anything. The actuator moves correctly. I can't find any other thing. My problem is underboost, but I can't find a boost leak.



I'm still scratching my head, and the scabs are getting irritated.
Brake booster hose?
Hoses dont have a lil crack or slice?
Intercooler and pipeing all good?
Vacuum bulb?
Weak vacuum pump?
Maf?
Egr?
Egr control actuator
N75?
Egr valve thingy (cant remember the name) sits next to the n75.
Is there something im forgetting?...

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carl20320

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Location
SW WA
TDI
2004 Mk4 Golf GLS TDI 5spd
Installed a set of GTI tail light housings on my golf. Received most of the last parts for operation lift the golf to occur shortly.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
Brake booster hose?
Haven't checked that yet. Not specifically. I did, however, check the N75 directly to see how much vacuum it was producing for the actuator, and whether the vacuum was slow in coming or going. It was fine.

My problem is when you graph the boost, it is slowly ramping up to the requested level. I was wondering if the N75 was slow in releasing the vacuum, and it is not. My vacuum gauge shows the vacuum disappears immediately (well, very quickly), and since that is the action that causes the vanes to open up for full boost, then that part of the equation is OK. Similarly, the actuator lever on the turbocharger is moving easily and rapidly when the actuator moves.

Hoses dont have a lil crack or slice?
Intercooler and pipeing all good?
Visual inspection seems OK, but I need to find a way to check the integrity of these. If there's a leak, it isn't enough to make a loud enough sound to think it is there. But my ears might not be catching the right frequencies due to my tinitis. I think a pressure test where I put compressed air into the hose at the turbocharger discharge from the impeller is needed. I'll have to figure out how to do this.
Vacuum bulb?
Weak vacuum pump?
Nope. N75 output shows this is not the problem. It's acting like a boost leak.
I've not seen evidence of this. A new replacement acts the same, and unplugging makes it even worse.
No longer part of the equation. One thing I did a few days ago was to replace the intake manifold since mine was a little occluded. Most of the blockage was in the EGR valve assembly itself, but I did both of them anyway. Somehow the pesky EGR cooler didn't make it back into the car, so there's temporary block off plates installed until I get this checked out. I also installed a test device of my own design that prevents the EGR codes from being set.
Egr control actuator
As above, not part of the equation at this time.
As previously stated, I tested this directly. I put my mighty vac on the N75 output directly and it was perfect while testing with engine running and VCDS was running the N75 output test. The actuator also holds vacuum and exercises its motion correctly. That it does it while attached to the turbocharger lever shows that the turbocharger vanes are also operating.
Egr valve thingy (cant remember the name) sits next to the n75.
N18. Not part of the equation at this time. For testing, my device bypasses it.
Is there something im forgetting?...
I don't think so, you've done a comprehensive listing of all the components. I think the next step is to figure out where the boost leak is. That is the way it seems to be operating to me - a leak not quite large enough to drain all the boost, but enough to greatly slow the buildup of manifold pressure.

There could be a junction that I'm not seeing, or the new-to-me seemingly good replacement intercooler isn't as good as it seems. It is hard to tell. Another possibility is that the turbocharger's turbine section is horribly occluded by soot buildup, but my thinking right now is that if so, it isn't affecting the vane motion, but yet is so hard as to completely resist the multiple application of oven cleaner chemical cleaning operations. There's no hint of soot discharge after.

I think some soapy water on the outside, and compressed air on the inside of the post turbocharger air intake tract may be my best bet.

One last place to look that I didn't do and should have is the hard pipe between the turbocharger and intercooler. That thing might be where the clog is. Hmmm, should have tried that sooner. Maybe I just need a new hard pipe.

Cheers,

PH
 

GlowBugTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2018
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Using soapy water is a good idea. I'm thinking that would work good.

Has for checking to see if your hoses leak just put one end in your hand and block it off with your thumb and blow on the other end. If there is a leak that is causing it to going to limp mode then that hose is going to have to lose pressure fairly quick.

Last Summer the glowbug started going into limp mode and for whatever reason I thought I had checked everything and was starting to wonder if it was the turbo. One of the guys here asked me if I had checked my brake booster hose and I said no so I went out and looked at in and it looked fine, So I kept driving it sometimes it would go into limp mode and other times it wouldn't. I would have a couple of good days and then it would send it back into limp and eventually getting worse to the point where it was almost always going into limp. Finally I decided to go through everything again and this time I actually removed the brake booster hose and noticed that there was a crack in the far end. on the side that was not visible without actually removing it.

Good luck!

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GlowBugTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2018
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Also. You said you removed the egr. could there be a small chance that the gasket between the EGR valve and intake is leaking?...

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Dh4276

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2006 Golf GLS TDI, BEW
I think some soapy water on the outside, and compressed air on the inside of the post turbocharger air intake tract may be my best bet.
Using windex and spraying along the hoses and lines works well too. I’ve used that method when looking for tire leaks. Less bubbles until a leak is present than soap.


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sriracha

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Location
805
TDI
2005 Jetta Wagon 5mt, 1982 Rabbit truck (gas)
Went to the Pick-n-Pull for a browse, yesterday. Mostly, I was craving a Carnitas Torta from the Pick-n-Pull taco truck. It’s been the same family-owned taco truck for over 30 years. Possibly my favorite tacos.

Anyways, after the Carnitas Torta, I found another wagon specific sunglasses holder, that replaces the grab handle above the door. Installing it on the passenger side. I also found a GLI parking brake cover.
 

gforce1108

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Location
Newburgh, NY
TDI
04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
Are you talking about feeling the actuator lever move, or what? I can't see that there would be anything in the vanes that you could feel since they're within the exhaust scroll.
I've tried a couple of chemical cleans on mine and it isn't doing much of anything. The actuator moves correctly. I can't find any other thing. My problem is underboost, but I can't find a boost leak.
I'm still scratching my head, and the scabs are getting irritated.
Basically play in the arm movement before anything internal moved. I couldn't see it doing the N75 output test because it's moving as it should - but once I had my hand on it better, I could feel that the initial movement was just the arm (maybe 1/4"?) with zero resistance. Then it got a little harder to move as the VNT actually started moving too. 314k miles now and running amazing :)
 
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