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Thanks I’ve been sporting JR 2.5 race tune since right before 2.8 came out. My wife’s X5 has 2.0 on all stock hardware and both have been adding grins for several years now
Been running JR 2.8 (with all supporting mods) and it makes 311 whp. I was expecting a lot more. The car is sluggish in low and midrange compared to the stock tune. Drive-ability is worse than stockThanks I’ve been sporting JR 2.5 race tune since right before 2.8 came out. My wife’s X5 has 2.0 on all stock hardware and both have been adding grins for several years now
Been running JR 2.8 (with all supporting mods) and it makes 311 whp. I was expecting a lot more. The car is sluggish in low and midrange compared to the stock tune. Drive-ability is worse than stock
Wow, suckage. Sorry to hear.Been running JR 2.8 (with all supporting mods) and it makes 311 whp. I was expecting a lot more. The car is sluggish in low and midrange compared to the stock tune. Drive-ability is worse than stock
I had the BMW Advanced Car Eye 2.0 accessory installed in my 535d. I'm still playing with the settings in the smartphone app. The camera system connects to the phone via Wi-Fi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DblyU-dQSl0
I really wanted to keep mine stock, but all the emissions stuff crapped out in very rapid order within 6 months of owning it. A DPF is $2600 for just that one part. $2600!! I miss the days of Tdi ownership. The engines were dead simple, only the car around it was a turd, lol.Wow, suckage. Sorry to hear.
BMW seems to have their USA spec diesels set up pretty well in stock form. I have driven a 328d sedan and a 328d wagon as loaner cars and I found them to be surprisingly torquey. Overall driveability was better than I expected due to the torque from the 2.0L N47 engine. Getting 46MPG while haulin' ar$e on the highway came as a bonus. The only reason why I won't own a 3-series is I don't fit in them very well. Too tight for me, even if I were as thin as a rail. I fit into my Mk4 TDIs better.
I already traveled down the TDI modding slippery slope during my years of TDI ownership. I haven't had much urge to mod my BMW diesels...yet. They seem to be harder to mod, fewer upgrade options are available for them, and are a lot more pricey to fix if I break them. I'm keeping mine bone stock...for now.
2014 535dx @ 122k miles.
2012 X5 35d @ 213k miles.
Same story as mine - 500 miles from home 2 weeks after purchase I get the dreaded red tail pipe juice warning with a 200 mile countdown to no start, along with a DTC for cat efficiency. I get the 335d to the BMW dealer I bought my X5 from (St Louis) with 7 miles left before starting is disabled.I really wanted to keep mine stock, but all the emissions stuff crapped out in very rapid order within 6 months of owning it. A DPF is $2600 for just that one part. $2600!! I miss the days of Tdi ownership. The engines were dead simple, only the car around it was a turd, lol.
Diesels are great, when they work right, which is rarely. Mechanics are intimidated and no one will work on them I'm already happily married, so I can't marry my car to spend umpteen hours on it like some people on the forums are and do.
Hate to hijack this thread, not sure where else to post this question though. My 03 Jetta got rear ended last week and the insurance is going to total it so im looking into getting a 335d as a replacement for it. My main question is what is too many miles on these cars? Im finding a few in the 150-170k milage range with a very attractive price. Just wondering if anyones had much experience with these with high milage. My moms x5 has 130k works perfect and not much problems to speak of since we bought it with 110k on it (i tuned and deleted it at that point).
I'm only at 213k miles on my 2012 X5 35d and it's still too early to tell.My main question is what is too many miles on these cars?
How's parts availability for that car, Dan? I've always liked those but would be afraid I would be stuck without a parts source.
Just to share with the group, I did my hitch install this past weekend (2014 535dx). I went with the kit from Stealth Hitch instead of Invisihitch/Execuhitch because I liked the fact that I could use my own hitch ball (or change it when it gets buggered up). Other than that small detail, I couldn't really find any difference between the two kits. The folks on the phone were very nice and patient with my newbie questions. They gave me a small discount because I supplied my own wiring kit.(snip)
4 wire lighting (brakes, running, turning lights) using Tekonsha Zero Contact kit--this can not short. It is fault protected but does not have the fault recovery modes of the Invisihitch module
(snip)
Nicely done. I'm getting my trailer brake controller wired, routing auxillary 12VDC power to trailer and doing the lighting. I have done some light towing of 1440 lbs with the Invisihitch at 187 lbs tongue loading plus load leveling torque applied, and it tows like a luxury vehicle. It's uncanny how smooth and controlled it is.Just to share with the group, I did my hitch install this past weekend (2014 535dx). I went with the kit from Stealth Hitch instead of Invisihitch/Execuhitch because I liked the fact that I could use my own hitch ball (or change it when it gets buggered up). Other than that small detail, I couldn't really find any difference between the two kits. The folks on the phone were very nice and patient with my newbie questions. They gave me a small discount because I supplied my own wiring kit.
I used the Tekonsha four-pin kit mentioned in a previous post and (knock on wood) it went in just fine. The four-pin connector doesn't have a lot of wire, so I mounted the module under the left tail light (there's a little room under there) and ran it out of the grommet beneath the tail light. There was a nice free spot on the + side of the battery to connect to and a nice ground right under the tail light. Honestly, it couldn't have been much easier for a ham-fisted amateur like me.
Couple other notes:
1. Once i got the bumper cover off and all the parts exposed, I noticed that my gravel guard and TPS antenna part were shaped differently than the ones in the instructions, but I was able to make it all work. I only had to trim the gravel guard and was able to leave everything else intact, which helped in buttoning everything back up pretty securely.
2. Note that with Stealth Hitch, you lose your rear towing eye mount as this is integral to the bumper support that you replace. However, you now have the trailer safety chain loops to grab. I'm not crazy about this but can't change it. (Note to Stealth - here's an improvement opportunity!) I note that my factory bumper support was beginning to rust along the bottom edge.
3. If you are considering doing this to your car, do yourself a favor and watch the video on youtube with the white 2016 535 for clues about how to disassemble and not to break stuff (it helped me a great deal).
4. I can't help wondering why two companies making similar hitch products are both located in the Atlanta area. Maybe one is an offshoot of the other?
Anyway, acid test coming up this weekend. Stay tuned for any disaster updates!
Ditto with Stealth, however included with the 2" receiver were numerous warnings not to use it to tow. I'm now set up for a bike rack down the road.BTW: Invisihitch sells a universal, class III 2" square tube female adapter that you can plug any appropriate item into. I don't remember the add-on pricing, but it wasn't much.
Found out today Invisihitch (which had acquired Execuhitch) went out of business. Stealthhitch bought up the IP, trademarks, and website, but revised the hard parts (male & female) to stainless steel. The Stealth hitch guy I talked to used to work for IH, but was really pooh-poohing them, lol.Ditto with Stealth, however included with the 2" receiver were numerous warnings not to use it to tow. I'm now set up for a bike rack down the road.