jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
how long did you drive it before you noticed any strange noises?.... you can sure see the fretting on the main cap and the webbing .... I don't think it's overkill to build a girdle...the stiffer the better !!
And yet another Toyota swap, but M-Tdi.
- Thread starter JaysinSpaceman
- Start date
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
Jim,
It was about 4600-4700 miles before it started making a "different" noise but I have to say that it was always a little noisier then I maybe thought it should be. Just a bit more rattle then I thought should be there, although I alway put it down to the Cummins 4bt pump.
That said I have my girdle back from the Waterjet guy. It still needs to be surface ground but all the bolt holes line up perfect. It only took me 5 or 6 templates to get every bolt hole spacing spot on (I plasma cut the templates out of 16 gauge sheet). It is cut out of 1/2" plate and will finish up just under that once it is ground. I think it came out pretty good and it picks up the extra bolt holes that are outside the pan rails to give it more rigidity.
Here's some pictures.
The pan bolts are just screwed in to check the hole alignment, they will be replaced with studs and nuts. The oil pump hole will require a little hand grinding for clearence and I still need to make the spacers that go between the girdle and the main caps but it's getting there.
You can also see the replacement block all cleaned up. I still need to bore and hone it and once I get the girdle/main spacers made I need to make sure the main bearing bores are round once torqued with the studs but it magnafluxed out clean (no cracks in this block).
Thanx for looking,
Jaysin
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vanbcguy
Veteran Member
Wow, that's meaty!
What are you going to do to extend the oil pump pickup?
What are you going to do to extend the oil pump pickup?
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
Cut it, weld it and reinforce it.
It's just the little tiny engine block that makes it look that way. It's only 1/2".
Jaysin
Bczuk
Veteran Member
That's nice. It does look beefy
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
I might just do that once I get it all sorted, mostly to recoup my design time. I can't say that there is more then a small market though as this style engine has been out of production for a long time.
If there is some interest for them here on the forum I could probably be talked into doing a short production run.
Thanx,
Jaysin
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
If I hadn't finished my build already I probably would have bought one. Don't forget it should fit all the 2.0 ABA gassers as well, lots of turbo ABA builds out there
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Nice work, Jaysin. I bet you can sell several of these. There are some overbuilt TDIs out there.
What is the girdle itself made of?
What is the girdle itself made of?
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
OK so we have a bit of an update on the new engine. Block machine work is done. The mains all check out straight and round with the new girdle and studs installed and torqued. I bored and honed the cylinders to the first oversize. And I machined a groove in the front I-shaft bearing bore so that I can clock the bearing for the correct oiling. Pictures...
Bored and honed block. I bored it on a Rottler boring bar and honed it to finished size on a Sunnen CK-10.
Same but with a flash that shows the cylinder finish.
The best manual machinist I know and a good friend helped me cut the new oiling groove into the I-shaft bearing bore. Here is the block set up in his mill.
Here is the boring head that ratchets the cutter out as it cuts to enable you to cut a groove inside and existing bore.
And the new groove.
A couple of shots of the Main girdle now that it has been Blanchard ground so it is flat and true. And because Cumminsfromthecold asked, the girdle is cut from 1/2" mild steel. It is the closest to the same expansion rate of the iron block without sourcing expensive Cast Iron plate, about 1/4 the cost of Cast Iron Plate.
While I was making things better I figured that I would true up the Intermediate Shaft itself. The castings that these are made from are anything but round. I removed about .200" from the diameter to get a smooth cut and everything trued up. Just the fact that it is balanced and true should make it smoother running. Don't know if it will help but it can't hurt.
My head and Rosten rods should be coming soon and now I need to order the sputter rod bearings and a bunch of other odds and ends. Like water pump, new coolant lines, gaskets, cam bolt, crank timing pulley bolt, etc, etc...
I update as the new stuff comes in and the engine starts going together. Oh and I post a picture once I get the block painted up, I'm going to paint it the same Desert Tan that the engine compartment is painted in.
So there's where she's at.
Thanx,
Jaysin
Bored and honed block. I bored it on a Rottler boring bar and honed it to finished size on a Sunnen CK-10.
Same but with a flash that shows the cylinder finish.
The best manual machinist I know and a good friend helped me cut the new oiling groove into the I-shaft bearing bore. Here is the block set up in his mill.
Here is the boring head that ratchets the cutter out as it cuts to enable you to cut a groove inside and existing bore.
And the new groove.
A couple of shots of the Main girdle now that it has been Blanchard ground so it is flat and true. And because Cumminsfromthecold asked, the girdle is cut from 1/2" mild steel. It is the closest to the same expansion rate of the iron block without sourcing expensive Cast Iron plate, about 1/4 the cost of Cast Iron Plate.
While I was making things better I figured that I would true up the Intermediate Shaft itself. The castings that these are made from are anything but round. I removed about .200" from the diameter to get a smooth cut and everything trued up. Just the fact that it is balanced and true should make it smoother running. Don't know if it will help but it can't hurt.
My head and Rosten rods should be coming soon and now I need to order the sputter rod bearings and a bunch of other odds and ends. Like water pump, new coolant lines, gaskets, cam bolt, crank timing pulley bolt, etc, etc...
I update as the new stuff comes in and the engine starts going together. Oh and I post a picture once I get the block painted up, I'm going to paint it the same Desert Tan that the engine compartment is painted in.
So there's where she's at.
Thanx,
Jaysin
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
Beautiful! I actually took my IM shaft to my machinist when I was building mine, he didn't think it was worthwhile. I still kind of wish he had done it, they look like a tree branch spinning in stock form.
Bczuk
Veteran Member
Awesome 
Wow.... I'm left speechless by this thread. Every page it gets better and more hard core. I can't believe you made a girdle! Maybe I skimmed over it, but were you running ARP head studs? I'm guessing you will now? I found some for roughly $120 on amazon. Seems like these motors like to blow head gaskets fairly easy once you up the boost at all. I can't wait to see you dyno this beast. I went thru the same heart-aches with my OM617. We have an annual dyno day about 2 hours from home; the first year my transmission was blowed up and the next year the alternator exploded on the way to the dyno! Finally, the third year I got to dyno it, only to be astronomically disappointed. I wish you the most of luck!
For the PCV oil fume problem, I would suggest doing what I've seen on many drag cars. They simply route a hose from the crank case vent to a weld-in bung in the exhaust. The air passing over the bung in the exhuast creates a vacuum, pulling the harmful oil vapor out thru the tail pipe, rather than feeding it into your turbo and gumming up your turbo, intercooler, and intake ports. Apparently you see more oil condense with the more blow-by you have. My Duramax has a PCV hose running to the frame, that just sits open to the atmosphere. It rarely ever drops oil out. My OM617 on the other hand, had tons of blow-by, and slowly trickled oil out the PCV hose.
samuraitd
Veteran Member
Hi Joe!!
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
So I had some free time and managed to get some stuff done to try to get this damn truck back together. I have been busy with work and not really had the time I'd like to devote to getting this truck back on the road and to tell the truth I have been more then just a little frustrated having to do all this work again
Pictures...
So the old Engine/Trans adapter left a lot to be desired in regards to the alignment of these two critical parts. It was out of alignment by .060"+ TIR when I finally got around to checking it proper like. So I made a new one. It uses the original alignment systems for both the engine side and the transmission side and the TIR is .004" now for an actual alignment measurement of .002", closer then most factory alignments.
Here you can see the alignment sleeves that use the stock alignment registers in the block.
Here we have the Old vs New. You can see that the use of countersunk 12mm bolts at the top of the old one were what was doing the aligning. Well the two bolt holes in the block that it aligns from are not necessarily correctly placed which is why the new one got counterbored holes and is now aligned at the bottom of the adapter where the original alignment sleeves were.
Here is the alignment being checked with the bell and front transmission case bolter to the engine with the new adapter. The unfortunate thing about the transmissions that Toyota uses is that in order to do the alignment like this you have to disassemble the transmission. It's much easier to do this on domestic bellhousings because there is a register in the bell that can be centered and you don't have to get at the input shaft bearing bore.
This new adapter is 3/8" plate just like the Acme one that I was originally using so I don't need to make any clutch/flywheel changes, it is just properly centered now.
Next...
Pictures...
So the old Engine/Trans adapter left a lot to be desired in regards to the alignment of these two critical parts. It was out of alignment by .060"+ TIR when I finally got around to checking it proper like. So I made a new one. It uses the original alignment systems for both the engine side and the transmission side and the TIR is .004" now for an actual alignment measurement of .002", closer then most factory alignments.
Here you can see the alignment sleeves that use the stock alignment registers in the block.
Here we have the Old vs New. You can see that the use of countersunk 12mm bolts at the top of the old one were what was doing the aligning. Well the two bolt holes in the block that it aligns from are not necessarily correctly placed which is why the new one got counterbored holes and is now aligned at the bottom of the adapter where the original alignment sleeves were.
Here is the alignment being checked with the bell and front transmission case bolter to the engine with the new adapter. The unfortunate thing about the transmissions that Toyota uses is that in order to do the alignment like this you have to disassemble the transmission. It's much easier to do this on domestic bellhousings because there is a register in the bell that can be centered and you don't have to get at the input shaft bearing bore.
This new adapter is 3/8" plate just like the Acme one that I was originally using so I don't need to make any clutch/flywheel changes, it is just properly centered now.
Next...
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
Now that the new adapter is made up I don't have to man handle the block anymore I thought it was time to clean it up and get a good coat of paint on it. Not super exciting I know but it is a step in the right direction. I decided I wanted the block a light color so that leaks and whatnot (cracks) are easy to spot and the bright paint on the block and in the engine compartment make it easy to see what you are doing when working on the thing. So...
So that is where things sit as of the end of the day today. Hopefully next week I'll have time to do a final block washing and start on the engine assembly. I still have a few parts to order and the transmission to reassemble but it is starting to look like there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Thanx for looking and thanx for being patient with my lack of updates.
Jaysin
So that is where things sit as of the end of the day today. Hopefully next week I'll have time to do a final block washing and start on the engine assembly. I still have a few parts to order and the transmission to reassemble but it is starting to look like there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Thanx for looking and thanx for being patient with my lack of updates.
Jaysin
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
good to see your getting that thing lined up properly !... looks like your using an r series trans ... my centering jig is for a g/w series but i'm considering cutting down an R case for future projects
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
No, it's a W56. And while I would have liked to have your cut down trans I also wanted to center the case and bellhousing that I am going to run. I would guess that most of the Toyota transmissions are machined close but all manufacturers have tolerances.
Thanx,
Jaysin
Thanx,
Jaysin
89vr6
Veteran Member
yup I'll be taking my trans apart when I get back to the house was it a giant pain in the ass to get it aligned ?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
Very interesting read. Thank you. Weird that the acme kit doesn't use any sort of centering pin.
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
So we have a little bit more going on here and I thought you guys deserved a few pictures.
This is the lower end of the new motor going together.
If you look past the main girdle and the crank in this one you can see the trued up shiny intermediate shaft.
Oil pump in place.
Pan on and buttoned up.
And the coated slugs sticking out of the top.
Sorry the pictures aren't that great the battery was dead on my good camera so I just shot a few pictures with my cell phone. I thought it had a better camera then it seems to.
I am just waiting on the appropriate thickness head gasket to poke the head on and then I plan to add a bit more support to the drivers side motor mount (the side that broke last time) just for good measure.
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully I'll get this truck back on the road by the end of September.
Thanx,
Jaysin
This is the lower end of the new motor going together.
If you look past the main girdle and the crank in this one you can see the trued up shiny intermediate shaft.
Oil pump in place.
Pan on and buttoned up.
And the coated slugs sticking out of the top.
Sorry the pictures aren't that great the battery was dead on my good camera so I just shot a few pictures with my cell phone. I thought it had a better camera then it seems to.
I am just waiting on the appropriate thickness head gasket to poke the head on and then I plan to add a bit more support to the drivers side motor mount (the side that broke last time) just for good measure.
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully I'll get this truck back on the road by the end of September.
Thanx,
Jaysin
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
nice work !.... did you go with the stick 1.9 slugs or bump it to 2.0?
JaysinSpaceman
Veteran Member
1.9 ASV pistons that I got from FrankenDiesel with Ceramic coated domes. Rosten rods. New squirters. Sputter Rod bearings. And obviously a big fat girdle.
Thanx,
Jaysin
Thanx,
Jaysin