HID light kit and foggy lens covers

tdiblair

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So many HID light conversion kits.....So many different levels of light intensity which goes ' blue-ish' in color at one intensity and then "pinkish" at an even higher intensity?? Do I want white, blue, pink?? Anyone find a quality kit that gives me an easy upgrade to our stock lights and has anyone settled on the right intensity? Next I have to get the cloudy haze off my front light lens covers...is the 3M kit the way to go or is there a cheap lens replacement out there.....Also, once we get the lens clear again, what keeps the cloudy fog from coming back. Would it be that 3M protective cover? Would it not only stop the stone chips and sand but the U.V. light too and stop our lens for clouding every 5 years?

tdiblair
 

N2OKX

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I can't speak to the coversion kit, but I do have considerable experience with the fog or haze on the lens. As a used car dealer (VW only), I have tried most of the systems with less than perfect results. Advance Auto Parts sells a kit that comes in a silver foil pouch that seemed to work the best, but it is not crystal clear like a new one and it eventually refogs. I also like the Mother's kit with the polishing ball. Again nothing lasts.

I have seen a system that includes a last step of coating the lens followed by exposure to UV to cure the coating. Compare to a dental filling! Only problem is they require you to go to their taining class in Buffalo, NY. I suspect it works, but that would be expensive unless you want to go into the headlight resore business.
 

TDI in MT

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none, sold it.
The 3M kit works well for the price. To prevent re-fogging, occasionally put sunscreen on the plastic - yes, the same stuff you put on the kids at the beach. I've never done that but I don't know why it would not work.

If you really want to keep the lenses clear, park in a garage.
 

20IndigoBlue02

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higher "Kelvin" (color temperature) is not brighter.

likewise.... going down to 3000K isn't brighter also.

so... the basic 4300K kit will be the brightest.

Clear Bra doesn't prevent the lens from getting yellowed.
 

Votblindub

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In general, the 4000K to 4800K range will give you the brightest light. Lumens is basically a measure of brightness, thats what you want functionally for driving and better visibility. Not to be confused with color intensity. The different temperatures(the K number) will produce different colors. If you want just purely show-y lights, go for crazy numbers like 10,000-13,000K, there's plenty of color in that range. There is a local Lexus GS300/350 with VERY intensely pink lights. Plenty of color, but it's really dim, even with headlights and fog lights on at the same time. It can't be that great during heavy fog/rain/snow. I've occasionally run across a couple cars with green lights, that were barely producing light. Seemed dangerous at night. Functionally, the most light output will be in the 4300-4800K range. Lots of stock HID lights are in the 4300-4800K range. With some of them, you can see a slight color change as they go on and start warming up. My A6 does this. You can see a slight color change in about 5-7 seconds of them being on. If you want a bright light with a bit more color to it, get in the 5000-6000K range lights. If you get towards 6000K, there's going to be some loss of lumens, but it's not that bad. Going closer to 8000K or more, there's a pretty significant drop off of functional amount of light. They may seem intense, but it's because the color itself is intense, not brightness though. There's really nothing wrong with show-y lights at 12,000K for a show car, but it's not as good or as safe in a daily as a 5000K set up. I've went through a few different kits. They've all been between the stock 4300K and aftermarket 6000K. They had a great amount of light output and the 6000K had a bit more color to it and the lumens didn't suffer all that much. The white looking light is the most useful. The 3000K lights are going to be that yellow light that's referred to as "french" or "euro" fog lights. I personally refer to them as "fog lights", as they're the proper fog lights. It must be a US thing to put in little lights for a car to be seen more, vs producing more usable light for the driver. These are good for using for fog lights while driving in adverse conditions like fog, rain, snow and such. Obviously take care with getting HID lights. You don't want to melt housings, so it's safer to opt out for 35W ones vs 55W ones. You want to make sure they're aimed well, in order not to be "that guy" and blind oncoming drivers. Personally, I don't complain about HID's that face me(improperly installed ones as well), I simply don't look in them. Each time a person complained to me about HID's, I would ask them if they simply looked straight into them. Each time it was "yes, I did". It's best to use projector housings, as they should have a small curved piece of metal inside that provides that nice cut off line you see when a car faces a wall.

TLDR; 4300-4800K is best for good, useful and bright white light. Get projects, don't be a jerk. High K numbers = more color, NOT more light.
 

LoneLIPumpeDuse

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HID conversions

I've been running a DDM Tuning conversion kit 35w 4500k in our oem Hella H7 projectors for years now. Very easy to install and were stupid cheap. They are still burning same bulbs and ballasts today. Mind you I work evenings and 40-50% of my driving is at night. DDM is having a sale right now (no, I'm not affiliated with them).You do need to re-aim the beam if you go this route, up and bit to the right.

I'm thinking of upgrading to Hella E55 bixenon and will run 55w in either 4500k or 5000k. The bixenon is the way to go, more work and a little more money. Now a days Hella E55 bixenons can be had for less than a $100 and are plug and play with our Hella projectors. Just gotta cook off the lenses to get at them and add a wire to trigger the shade.

:cool::D
 
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Votblindub

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I've been running a DDM Tuning conversion kit 35w 4500k in our oem Hella H7 projectors for years now. Very easy to install and were stupid cheap. They are still burning same bulbs and ballasts today. Mind you I work evenings and 40-50% of my driving is at night. DDM is having a sale right now (no, I'm not affiliated with them).You do need to re-aim the beam if you go this route, up and bit to the right.

I'm thinking of upgrading to Hella E55 bixenon and will run 55w in either 4500k or 5000k. The bixenon is the way to go, more work and a little more money. Now a days Hella E55 bixenons can be had for less than a $100 and are plug and play with our Hella projectors. Just gotta cook off the lenses to get at them and add a wire to trigger the shade.

:cool::D
OOOH! Thanks for the sale heads up! Time to pick up my new lighting! I've been thinking of getting the kit from DDM.
 

tdiblair

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Lots of good info. I want to thank you all.
1) I'm down to N2okx and checking out Advance Auto Parts kit that comes in a silver foil pouch that seemed to work the best or the Mother's kit with the polishing ball to get rid of ' most' of the fog.

Votblindub with a great education on the brightness and level I want. " TLDR; 4300-4800K is best for good, useful and bright white light. Get projects, don't be a jerk. High K numbers = more color, NOT more light. " ..... before this I was clueless.

LoneLiPumpDuse and which kit to get......DDM and on sale....LoneLi , one question ...did you go with the 35 watt or 55wat??? I'm wondering about too much heat near the plastic housing?

20IndigoBlue02 "

stock HID lights from Philips and OSram are actually spec'd at 4150K.... but since we're not talking about factory D2 bulbs... I'll leave it there. " Please don't leave it there. I think you are saying I can get stock bulbs that put at the same ' usable' light as the HID's ??
 

20IndigoBlue02

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osram cool blue intense is actually brighter than the standard HID bulbs, it is a 5000k

osram CBI's are being found as factory equipment bulbs on newer Mercedes Benz vehicles

So, if you want the best of both worlds, you need to retrofit a HID projector so that you can use D2S CBI's


Sent from my iPhone. There may be horrible grammar and misspelling involved
 

LoneLIPumpeDuse

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LoneLiPumpDuse and which kit to get......DDM and on sale....LoneLi , one question ...did you go with the 35 watt or 55wat??? I'm wondering about too much heat near the plastic housing?
In our stock headlight you will need a kit that fits our H7 bulb. I'm running 35w and it's a huge improvement. Even better than the 65W Osram Ultra High Output (2100 lumen) H7 bulbs(which are now in the high beams) but would prefer the 30% more light from a 55w. I have not heard of over heating with the 55w kit.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/HID-install-DRL-disable.htm
 

Votblindub

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I just came across this thread. Figured I'd toss it in for tdiblair to look at as reference. The projectors provide a nice cut off, so oncoming traffic doesn't go blind, they keep the light where it needs to go and the light output is bright and is white. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=402494 This is a pretty nice set up.
 

V-DubLuv

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replace your lenses with glass ones, huge improvement. personally, i think anything between 5-6k temp looks the best. i have 6k 55 watt and its a very bright white with a slight blue hue.
 

20IndigoBlue02

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replace your lenses with glass ones, huge improvement. personally, i think anything between 5-6k temp looks the best. i have 6k 55 watt and its a very bright white with a slight blue hue.

And... Where would you find glass lens for the passat? Link would be very helpful to these people


Sent from my iPhone. There may be horrible grammar and misspelling involved
 

tdiblair

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Votblinddub, thanks for the post.....unbelievable lights in that Jetta, but too much complication for me. I was hoping for a simple plug in set up. LoneLiPumpDuse seems to have the set up closest to my capabilities with his original 35 watt existing set up.....but now he is headed for Hella E55 bixenons! I'm not clear if a E 35 or E 55 Bixenons actually fits in my stock Passat headlamp housings and I'm probably too afraid to to try 55 watts in a plastic headlamp housing. I'm going to research Bixenons but I sense they are more complicated.

20IndigoBlue02's post where he says " Osram cool blue intense is actually brighter than the standard HID bulbs, it is a 5000k

Osram CBI's are being found as factory equipment bulbs on newer Mercedes Benz vehicles

So, if you want the best of both worlds, you need to retrofit a HID projector so that you can use D2S CBI's

I'm not feeling positive about this at the end of the quote where it goes " you need to retrofit a HID projector so that you can use D2S CBI's. " That doesn't sound like an easy drop in plug and play. Not sure what the 'retrofit' involves?

Autozone has two bulbs , Osram ( they say HID Look) then Xenon, around the $65 range and truly just plug in. VotBlindDub says 4000 to 4800 is going to give me the brightest usable light. I think these AutoZone's are 4200.... I dunno if anyone here knows about these two AutoZone ? I'm thinking if they are in VotBlindDub's suggest range, I should go with them , forget the ballast , the extra wiring direct to my battery ....running a relay to my ballast....just a few less issues .... or is there a few reasons why I should head towards BiXenons or these more complicated HID's with ballast? Is the whole issue at hand here just finding a bulb that gets to the 4000 to 4800 K range or are there other reasons some of these guys went and did the modifications on the older posts? I'm assuming years ago, the modifications were needed and now on the eve of 2014 the technology is now there is a twist in bulb that was not there 5 years ago?

In short, I'm just asking if the Autozone bulbs are just too good to believe, have I oversimplified this?

Tdi Blair
 

Votblindub

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TdiBlair, I'd say if you want to go with a 35W set up, pull the trigger. It's a safe range. I've helped people install HID lights before. Some were aftermarket and some were pulled from a car that came with them. They've all been in the 30-35W range and there's never been an issue in my experience.

To be safer even, you can get a hold of or simply make a harness. This would include a relay and some fuses. This way if there's some sort of an issue, there's not going to be melted wires, but a simple blown fuse or something cheap and easy to fix.

Bi-xenon set ups are not that complicated. The simplest way to explain one is this - a single bulb is used to provide the light. When you've got your low beams on, the cut off appears as it normally would limiting some of the light output. When you switch it to high beams, a small motor/actuator moves that metal piece inside the light assembly, so that it doesnt block any of the light and you get a different light pattern. It gives out some more light, because the metal piece is no longer blocking any part of the bulb.

As far as all the "HID look" this or that claim that traditional filament bulb packages claim- it's all marketing hoo-hah. It's simply not even close. I've got a pile of boxes and some light bulbs that I've tried over the years in different cars and simply put "don't bother". They can claim whatever they want to on the package, but it's no match for actual HID lights. I'll give you a quick and dirty run down. The bulbs here are advertising that HID look, or Xenon like look and such.






You're going to notice something that stands out right away, the bulbs are blue, purple, blue-ish or have some color in them in the glass. This is the first sign of faking it. You're also going to see photos posted online that will show them pointed at things and giving off a blueish tinge or maybe purpleish. This is again, fake. They do not give off blue or blueish color. They barely show color. This is simply put- crap. Also, notice how they have a filament in the bulb itself. This tells you that it's a traditional bulb. Now, theyre going to claim that the gas inside is different or this and that. Whatever they claim is not going to match or look like actual HID lights, man. It's marketing, pretty pictures as well as a lower price all set there in order to have you buy product. They are great at selling you the sizzle and not the steak, so to speak.

Now, let's examine some HID bulbs.

This picture is massive http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00iBNQfwmhELoY/HID-Xenon-D2R-D2S-D2C-Bulb.jpg

You can plainly see that the actual glass is clear. They are shaped differently, theyre more of a straw rather than a bubble. They don't have that pinched off nipple looking part of the glass at the end. They clearly have what looks like a wire or a stem on the outside of the bulb and no actual filament inside connected to two stems. You're going to see a small wire inside, going into a small bubble that has nothing inside thats visible, then another wire on the other side of the bulb. It looks like the filament is not complete. THIS is a true HID bulb filled with xenon gas. There might be some other gasses in there as well, but this is what you want. The basic principle behind standard bulbs pictured above is that they take that 12v from the car and hit that little tungsten filament that heats up in the bulb. The HID bulbs are different. The little ballast and igniter boxes(sometimes its 2, sometimes its just 1) are basically transformers. They are kind of like neon light transformers. What happens is that they take that 12v, convert it to a much different voltage thats WAY higher. I'm not going to pitch the math in this one with the ohm's law formula and such. This is needed in order to excite the gas in that little bulb in the middle. Once that current hits the gas, it glows giving off that light. The output is MUCH more lumens, the color is also going to be different.

As far as your retrofitting concerns go. Yes, it's always better to install a projector into the headlight housing if it doesn't have one. You can definitely put in a set of HID lights in your headlights as is(provided the bulb codes match) and using a 30-35W kit you would be set. You might need to adjust the headlights so you dont blind the oncoming traffic as much. It's best to use the projector, as I've stated before, because of the reflector and other reasons. I'd say, you can definitely try an HID set with OEM housings first, get a harness as well to be on the safe side as well. In some cases, the HID kits will draw less power that conventional light bulbs(yes, it can happen even though theyre so much brighter) and set off a light on your dash that indicates a bulb out. They make error code eliminators for that as well.

If youre looking at a budget of $65, just get ones from DDM(i am not affiliated with DDM in any way. I'm mentioning them as they have kits in the price range and were mentioned before in the thread), they'll run you less(most likely, unless you start getting very fancy and get every option available). Yes they advertise that theyre in the useful range of numbers in K, but it's all bunk, as I've stated before. My advice would be to snag an HID kit. It may take a little bit of fiddling with it, but its 100% worth it. Later down the road, buy projectors online, find them in a salvage yard or whatever works best for you and them adapt them to fit your headlights. There are numerous retailers online that will sell glass lens projectors for a reasonable price. Reinstall the HID kit into the projectors, align them correctly and enjoy. Don't bother with regular bulbs claiming this and that, because youre getting into the territory of those electric superchargers, magnets people put on fuel lines, fans they cram in the intake or the general areas of magical beans and snake oil.
 
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tdiblair

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Votblindub, excellent post. I and I'm sure others interested in this upgrade can't thank you enough. Besides specifics and education, there is the humor side too. This line.... " Don't bother with regular bulbs claiming this and that, because youre getting into the territory of those electric superchargers, magnets people put on fuel lines, fans they cram in the intake "... you created a classic. That line is the summation of every double you horsepower , double your mileage for only $19.99, we've heard since 1990....we all were curious about ....then after 10 minutes came to our senses and said , if it could be done that cheap, GM , Ford or the Government would have bought them all out, by now.

I'm back to the HID's. You have convinced me on the difference. Will check the web on ' Projectors' and see how they install, but for now I think I'll just go with some 35watt HID on a relay and powered directly off the battery.

Saving $50 for something I'll be using for years is not my main interest. What would your 1st choice be in a set of HID's to go into a stock Passat headlights. Keep in mind, I might not get to the Projectors, because I'm not sure how involved that additional projector installation is.

tdi blair
 

aja8888

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Blair: Making things too complicated here..


The low beam of the 2004-05 Passat TDI already has a projector lens in it. Just get a set of 4300K, 35W HIDs as LionelPD suggests. I put sets of these in both 2005 Passat's we previously owned and they were fine.

Tough Tony
 

Votblindub

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Blair: Making things too complicated here..


The low beam of the 2004-05 Passat TDI already has a projector lens in it. Just get a set of 4300K, 35W HIDs as LionelPD suggests. I put sets of these in both 2005 Passat's we previously owned and they were fine.

Tough Tony
Yup. If there's already a set in there, simply purchase the HID kit that matches the bulb code and you will be set.
 

tdiblair

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Ok, the summary, for others in the same boat as me.

1) It starts with N20KX who like the Mother's kit and mini ball to get the cloudiness out of our plastic lens. 3M gets second place but too big a jump between sandpaper grits. Mother's Mini Ball Polisher puts the polishing compound down on the lens with the most even pressure.
2) 20IndigBlueOz & VotblindUp say don't go blue, don't go pink....stay in the 4000 to 4800 -K range of light ....if you fear the heat of 55W... go 35W 4300K which is a typical kit. L
3) LionLiPumpDuse 's DDM Hid kits , now on sale, seems a reasonable kit and the only ' name' mentioned in Kits to buy. I wouldn't mind some other tried and true brands to be mentioned.
4) Hella E 55 BiXenon is maybe the cutting edge, but we dunno or don't have anyone standing in here yet saying they work without melting or distorting our stock Hella Plastic HeadLamp Assemblies. Just another kind of HID that gives you a high and low bean via a moving internal part that move in and blocks some of the light on low beam then moves out of the way for high beam.
5) Votblindub slaps me around and brings me back to reality with the super post explanation of HID versus fake crap. Sylvania and others look alike are for girly men. Real men like "Tough Tony" and Votblindup, go HID with their own Harness, Fuse, a Relay to trigger off the car's high / low beam switch. This will cause a bulb out warning on the dash which gets deleted with a scan tool. Wire the HID's direct to the battery so if something burns it up, it's your easy to replace Harness going back to the battery that fries, not the cars more complex wire harness....in reality, we only fry the in line fuse. Our stock lamps come with a Projector in the low bean. I assume, later, we look for a projector for the high beam, but it's an optional step.

I think the Relay comes with the DDM kit?

If DDM is good enough for LoneLiPumpDuse and Tough Tony, then it good enough for the Queen of England's Rover, but there might be better sets out there.

I think we are all set except for the Relay switch.

tdi blair
 

Votblindub

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TdiBlair, close, man, close. You don't need a scan tool to get rid of the light bulb out code on the dash. Your car MAY throw that out, because the HID kits pull less power and the car things it must be a bulb out. The car is fooled by using an error eliminator. Small electrical gizmo.

BiXenons aren't really THAT necessary. After going HID, I've used my high beams to flash the lights at other cars. i didn't need them to get more light. I think a regular HID kit will suffice.

DDM has a bunch of stuff, I'd give em a buzz and ask about your particular car. They're more likely to tell you if you'll need an error eliminator and other extras. As far as other brands go? Man, there's so many of them out there. If you just search for "HID kit", youre going to get hundreds of places. You can get them through retailer sites, ebay and such. The reason I mentioned DDM is 1, you can call the dudes. 2 is it's cheaper than most, but still good from what im hearing. 3 is theyre having a sale, so its even more cheaper :)
 

20IndigoBlue02

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B5.5 electronics don't need a CAN-BUS canceler, as the headlights are not Pulse Width Modulated

the ballast needs to be relayed for the DRLs at minimum, since HID DRLS are at full power. Optional is disabling DRLs, and it's slightly more involved than just bending down the TFL pin on the switch, Passats need to have their DRL relay removed
 

tdiblair

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Votblindub writes " TdiBlair, close, man, close. You don't need a scan tool to get rid of the light bulb out code on the dash. Your car MAY throw that out, because the HID kits pull less power and the car things it must be a bulb out. The car is fooled by using an error eliminator. Small electrical gizmo.
" Thanks Votblindub....I'm good to go with the Gizmo."

20IndigoBlue02 writes " the ballast needs to be relayed for the DRLs at minimum, since HID DRLS are at full power. Optional is disabling"

ok IndigoBlue....I saw the post on MyTurboDiesel that LionliPumpduse gave on the other forum. It looks like the guy ,( after removing the lower dash near or knees), just pulled out a relay to disable the DLRS. I rather do that then bend over the TFL pin on the switch , just in case I want to go back to stock and toss the HID's one day, I'm guessing the pin I bent over on the TFL is not going to bend back so well. For some reason, I thought I had to go out and buy some Relay to eliminate the DLRS. Now I believe what you are saying all I have to is remove that relay , under the dash. If that's all it is, I finally get it.

tdiblair
 

aja8888

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Blair:

This is my last post (maybe):

You are a detail guy and asked the crew for how to do it, so you got a load dumped. Many posters don't understand the simple B5.5 electronics. No worry about dash lights/bulb out, etc like on the CAN BUS stuff.

Simple set up:

4300 K 35 W slim ballast kit (DDM was mine, both of them)
No relay harness needed.
Just tap into the existing bulb wires.
You can use the stock light switch (no Euro switch needed).

What you may need is an adapter to hold the H7 bulb to the back of the EXISTING projector lens. There is a thread on how to do this install over at Passat World. It's not hard.

Believe it or not, this is the same setup I just did last month on a 2013 Passat TDI near me with the kit that had the bulb cancel modules for the CAN BUS stuff. No relay harness needed. There is a thread on that here too.

Tough Tony from Connecticut...

P.S.

Disable DRLs....take lower panel off and pull out relay #173 (I think?). 5 minute job.
 
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thundershorts

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20IndigoBlue02

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It sure has on mine since new. The only part that is hazy or 'yellow' is the part that is not covered by the clear bra material.
Clear Bra doesn't completely filter out the UV radiation that causes the polycarbonate to "fog" up. It is made that way by design, as when applied to painted surfaces, it allows the painted areas to "fade" with the rest of the paint.

Mine has fogged up, and it is even more noticeable when I had my passenger side headlight replaced from hitting a deer, as the driver side is still slightly yellowed.
 

Votblindub

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Blair, if you're still on the fence, man. I've got a set of bulbs ordered for my jetta that will be adapted to work with a kit i have from before. I've also purchased one for my mom's car. Install pics will be available once the parts come in and get installed.
 
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