Where to buy aux. heater?

2footbraker

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I have the dreaded 00361 code (aux heater defective). Assuming it's not just a loose connection, does anyone have a source for the heater aside from the dealer?
 

Kalter|Tod

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you could try getting ahold of the boys at IDparts.com I am sure they would be able to. I have had to custom order things from them before.
 

Ol'Rattler

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Did you check the 100 Amp fuse at the power distribution Bus behind the battery? Also, It wouldn't hurt to check If the Z-35 element is being commanded on by the ECU with VCDS before buying a new a new Z-35 element/controller.

All the code says is that the element or controller is "faulty" but doesn't really explain the criteria that set the code.
 

2footbraker

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Trying to get this sorted out before the winter hits. Bentley is of no help. All it shows is the power supply to Z35. Doesn't show where the switched originates from. My fuse and connections is/are good and VCDS shows the heater is getting 14V at the switch but only reaches 30A and then drops to 20A immediately. I imagine it is indeed the element. Anybody have a detailed wiring diagram so I can check the switch wiring before I shell out some decent coin? Also, is there multimeters available that will measure up to 80A, mine only goes to 10A?
 
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South Coast Guy

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Trying to get this sorted out before the winter hits. Bentley is of no help. All it shows is the power supply to Z35. Doesn't show where the switched originates from. My fuse and connections is/are good and VCDS shows the heater is getting 14V at the switch but only reaches 30A and then drops to 20A immediately. I imagine it is indeed the element. Anybody have a detailed wiring diagram so I can check the switch wiring before I shell out some decent coin? Also, is there multimeters available that will measure up to 80A, mine only goes to 10A?
Better hurry, there are only 2 weeks of summer left.
 

2footbraker

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Checked the wiring and the supply line is giving 14V at all times. Ground is good. The switch terminal however, is giving only 3.5V. The strange thing is that it's putting out that voltage whether the dash switch is off or on. Now I have to find out where the switch actually comes from.
 

2footbraker

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There must be a shut-off condition from a temp sensor someplace that is preventing me from manually turning on the element. When I try to activate the element with VCDS while the switch terminal is unplugged it fails due to lost communication with the controller so I can't check switch voltage with a multimeter.
 

2footbraker

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Got a used one for $150 from Europe that works. I wanted to see what could possibly fail on a simple heating element and why it costs so much so I took my old one apart. Obviously the control module is integral as shown in the pic below. No backyard fix for this one!



FYI for people replacing theirs, the temp control must be at full hot before disconnecting the battery so the control arm above the aux. heater moves and gives you clearance to remove the aux. heater. Also, there is another 6 mm screw above the + terminal that has to be removed that isn't shown in the Bentley. Disconnecting the battery is a must as the two heavy gauge cables are "live" even when the heater is "off".
 

metallocene

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Too funny, my Aux Htr just showed up as failed as well. Must be our western winters...

When you a get a moment, where'd you source yours? Ebay has a guy in Lithuania selling used ones. His history show's that he sells a lot of used ones.

Does make one wonder if he refurbishes them. Probably some cheaply sourced resistor or cap in the controller board... :)
 

Bambaataa

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I'm bought my BRM with very similar issue
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 7D: Aux. Heat Labels: 1K0-963-235.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
Revision: 00800000 Serial number:
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D7FD5D5B4680B70BBD

1 Fault Found:
00361 - Heater Element for Auxiliary Heater (Z35)
014 - Defective
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i'm unable to clear the error code through vagcom but i can run output test through vagcom and hear the aux heater put additional load on engine and also see it activate in vagcom while the output test is running

Any ideas on what to check?
 

2footbraker

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Nothing really to check. Mine only reached 30A on the output test when it should be nearly 80A. It would not activate at all through the heater controls.
 

Bambaataa

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Nothing really to check. Mine only reached 30A on the output test when it should be nearly 80A. It would not activate at all through the heater controls.
Im confused. Here is what i've got...

Vagcom says range should be < 0.05A When off and 1.00A-77.00A when on
and the numbers seem to be within range.
 

2footbraker

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But when you try to turn on the heater through the climate controls and monitor the measuring blocks, you will see the heater doesn't turn on. Remember the coolant temp has to be below 70C.
 

Bambaataa

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You're very correct! I am unable to activate the unit directly using the climate controls.

I wonder if there is a way to find out how vagcom is able to activate the unit even though its "defective".

Or maybe VAGCOM is just assuming the unit is "on" because the necessary circuits to make it run are closed. The air from the vents seemed quite warm for the short time i had it running for (coolant temp was 61 Celsius at the time so the heat source is not very conclusive)

I will try it again in the morning when the coolant temp should be below 30 Celsius to see if the unit produces any heat when activated through vagcom.
 

Bambaataa

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I tested it again this morning with the coolant temperature under 30 Celsius and i can confirm that the heater actually produces heat when activated through vagcom



My quest now is to find out why the climate controls cannot activate the heater when VAGCOM is able to.
 

nowback

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I tested it again this morning with the coolant temperature under 30 Celsius and i can confirm that the heater actually produces heat when activated through vagcom

My quest now is to find out why the climate controls cannot activate the heater when VAGCOM is able to.

did you ever get this sorted out my 2006 is doing the exact same thing!
swapped in a different element and now i cant clear codes and it still doesnt seem to work..
matt
 

Bambaataa

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I just replaced the unit with a used part for now... I will investigate some more (hopefully in the near future) to determine whether or not the faulty part can be fixed.
 

nowback

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I tossed in a used element was well and still getting weird codes i can't clear and still doesn'tapear to work.
 

Bambaataa

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I'd imagine being able to run the Aux heater through Vagcom eliminates the fused from being the issue. My guess is that the replacement part you got is defective.

I'm not aware of a method of testing to confirm that the heater works without using vagcom scan. So when i bought my replacement i bought on condition that i'll keep it only if the seller or myself is able to prove that the heater still works.
 

nowback

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Ok here is what a local vw dealership mechanic had to say about this topic.
the aux heating element is made up of 3 - 333 watt elements as the output varies from
low to hi it turns on or off more of the elements the most used element burns out first. to
bad the elements cant be swapped out,,, hmmm something i will have to look at!
so this explains why when i tried the output test the max it hit was just over 600 watts!
matt
 

nowback

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well the circuit board will come off the ends of the elements they are pressed on and i am
sure were never designed to be taken off! the elements test fine so its on the circuit board
:(
 

nd_via

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Try to verify and resoldering all those 5 resistors on the circuit board, those ones with coulorred circles on them; was a solution for some users on a local forum, hope it will help you resolve the problem.
 
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nowback

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Try to verify and resoldering all those 5 resistors on the circuit board, those ones with coulorred circles on them; was a solution for some users on a local forum, hope it will help you resolve the problem.
BINGO! had a chance to check out the surface mount resistors and sure enough
cold soldering joints on all of them!
retouched all the ends with new solder and its up and working 100%
to bad a hacked up the one electric core in i am sure it could have been
put back into service.
I got my hands on a couple more so i have a couple extra now:)
all had bad solder on all 5 resistors as well!
thanks nd!

now if nd_via could solve my other code i could be close to being codeless
Controller 46 central conv.
00352 - Terminal 30A
011 - Open Circuit
any ideas ;)
 
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Bambaataa

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I checked resistance on all 5 resistors and determined three of the five resistors read 62 Ohms and other two 10 Ohms. I also checked for continuity and discovered there is no continuity in the resistors with the higher resistance despite the fact that there is no obvious breaks to the naked eye.
 

nowback

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I checked resistance on all 5 resistors and determined three of the five resistors read 62 Ohms and other two 10 Ohms. I also checked for continuity and discovered there is no continuity in the resistors with the higher resistance despite the fact that there is no obvious breaks to the naked eye.
I dont think you can test the resistance accurately with out removing them
from the board. all i did was a quick touch up in the hopes nothing else was wrong and it worked.
 

Bambaataa

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I dont think you can test the resistance accurately with out removing them
from the board. all i did was a quick touch up in the hopes nothing else was wrong and it worked.
I agree with you on not being able to accurately read the resistance.

The fact that there's no continuity between the board "points" which the resistors sit on is a very good indication there is a gap in the circuit. Adding the soder like you did closes the gap in the circuit.
 
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