My $600 to $1300 B4 passat TDI

[fletcher0780]

Got a bunch more work done today. turbo oil lines done, needed to cut old feed and new feed and use a compression fitting to join them together. Also had to cut new turbo boost pipe, rotate it to join IC pipe, and join the two halves with a hose and clamps. Got the exhaust all plumbed and mounted, and half assed my N75 plumbing. I did notice when I reved the engine a bit I heard a squealing sound, disconnected N75 vacuum line and the sound went away when I reved engine. It's possible I have a boost leak, the adapter that goes in the turbo outlet seems a bit funky. Here are some quick crappy pics.

 

[Digital Corpus]

The occasional 700F rating scares me a bit, I may just make sure both surfaces are clean and go without. I did order the DP gasket, so I will use that.

That worried me as well. I'd going to have a peak and see how things have progressed in teh next couple of days. I meant to do that backj on Monday/Tuesday, but I got distracted with other stuff.

Got a bunch more work done today. turbo oil lines done, needed to cut old feed and new feed and use a compression fitting to join them together. Also had to cut new turbo boost pipe, rotate it to join IC pipe, and join the two halves with a hose and clamps. Got the exhaust all plumbed and mounted, and half assed my N75 plumbing. I did notice when I reved the engine a bit I heard a squealing sound, disconnected N75 vacuum line and the sound went away when I reved engine. It's possible I have a boost leak, the adapter that goes in the turbo outlet seems a bit funky. Here are some quick crappy pics.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1780_zps5964374f.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1781_zps034f551d.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1782_zps1c1118c6.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1783_zps93435ff5.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1784_zps2a44aea8.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n102/fletcher0780/passat/URL_1785_zps39882c43.jpg

Nice
About the squeal. Have someone else rev it while you have you rhead under the hood? Is it an air sqeal, liquid sqeal, metal on metal squeal? You primed the turbo with oil first? None of the welds have any pin holes in your exhaust?

Your union in the turbo outlet pipe with the screw clamps. Spend $10 and replace them with t-clamps, fwiw.

I want to hear how that puppy runs when you get a chance to drive it

 

[fletcher0780]

squeal only occurs when reved and n75 connected, I need to hook a vacuum gauge up to VNT port on n75 and see what is going on when I rev it. I know the actuator on the turbo works, I tested with a mighty vac. No exhaust leaks, but that adapter coming out of turbo outlet concerns me, seems like there could be a leak there. I plan to tig that boost pipe once I get the other issues addressed.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Do you have a boost gauge? On mine it is normal to build a couple pounds of boost when revving it at idle. Without the n75, the vanes will stay fully open. It seems like you're hearing your turbo squeal... No bueno!

 

[fletcher0780]

I do have a boost gauge. The sound isn't really mechanical and the turbo had no discernible shaft play. I think i may be hearing a boost leak. I need to finish buttoning everything up today, double check my vacuum hoses, and look closely at the turbo exit adapter.

 

[fletcher0780]

Looks like I have a leak at the exhaust manifold at least, maybe where the turbo mounts and egr block off too. Was working with vcds this morning, IQ was at 2, brought it to 3.6 and ran out of adjustment. I'm still working on timing, what a fine adjustment that is... Got it close and my laptop battery crapped out. I'll let the engine cool and then try to tighten my manifold bolts. The sound is very similar to a belt slipping.

 

[fletcher0780]

I finally got my timing within the lines. I know most aim for getting as close to the green line as possible, but my pump will not move any more toward the engine. I loosened fuel lines and pushed it as faras it would go and this is where I ended up.

For my IQ, when I started I was at 2 mg/s. I just tried to get it as close to 4 as possible and see how it starts and drives after that. seems to start easy and idle smooth. I'm also going to be replacing the .205 nozzles with .240 Warp 4's once I get every thing else ironed out.

 

[Digital Corpus]

The IQ matters only when the car is warmed up. It is better to hammer mod the pump than it is to adjust it thorugh adaption.

I was thinking. If you have the N75 wired up incorrectly, you might have put full vacuum to the turbo actuator. With vanes completely closed, if you reved it, it could make a squeal I guess.

 

[fletcher0780]

I didn't change any wiring to the n75, just replaced the old one with the new one. Malone adjusted the tune to account for this. possible the n75 i got is bad i guess. What should a vac gauge show at idle at the turbo actuator?

 

[Digital Corpus]

Sorry, plumbed up is what I meant; the vacuum, turbo control, and atmospher lines

 

[v8volvo]

I finally got my timing within the lines. I know most aim for getting as close to the green line as possible, but my pump will not move any more toward the engine. I loosened fuel lines and pushed it as faras it would go and this is where I ended up.

Sounds like belt one tooth off on the pump sprocket if you're stuck there and can't get any more advance out of it. The setting you have now is OK, no big problem running it as long as you're happy with the way it starts on cold mornings and you're not trying to run a big tune with small injectors. If you want to advance it further will have to move the pump sprocket forward a tooth then readjust pump position.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Due to PCP's and EGT's, it's advised that if you go to Race520's or similar size, where you have the timing is the most 'advanced' you actually want.
Strike the above and ignore

 

[JFettig]

Michael, that is not true. Setting the static timing there does NOTHING for PCP but will INCREASE EGT if its too far negative.

You want the static timing between the blue and green lines.

This isn't a MTDI.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Apologies for the misinformation then. Why did you suggest having my timing about where his is then?

 

[JFettig]

make it start worse?

Some people think that you can retard the static timing and it retards all the timing. Its incorrect. The ECU controls the timing. You could maybe retard the timing far enough so that it cuts the top end of the timing but so many negative side effects will be had.

The only thing YOU can do is change the timing adaptation, but don't bother, your tune is doing what it needs to do.

 

[fletcher0780]

I've got the vacuum feed into the top port, turbo actuator in middle, and vent/airbox on bottom.

I'll move my IP pully 1 tooth to get a bit mor adjustment and bring my timing between the green and blue. I still need to track down my exhaust leak, which I hope is causing the squeal. It could be that my N75 is bad, so I'll see if I can find one to test with. I still have some bolts to double check, some wiring and vacuum lines to tie down, then I'll bolt the wheels back on, take it off jack stands and go for a rip.

 

[fletcher0780]

shifter still felt a bit loose after replacing the linkage parts at the transmission, so I ordered this shifter rebuild kit: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_15_42_152_6639&products_id=4644

 

[fletcher0780]

so I was able to tighten up the bottom manifold bolts enough to get rid of the squeal. I still have a little puff of smoke when you rev it up the comes up between IM and valve cover. I think I've got a bit of a leak at the top bolts, I'll tighten those when it cools down. I also was able to adjust my timing to about 70 so I should be good there.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Glad you found the source

 

[fletcher0780]

Glad you found the source

Yeah, I read it in one other thread somewhere where the guy mentioned the metal gaskets can vibrate/resonate and create a squeal like noise. Glad it wasn't the turbo, I got a good deal on it, but it appeared to be in awesome shape. Can't wait to get her on the road and see how she goes. The weather is getting nice and it's almost time to break out the 930, not to mention I'm still hunting down an engine swap candidate for my toyota pickup.

 

[fletcher0780]

Took the car for a test drive today. I've got no brakes, think I blew a brake line. I'm still getting a puff of smoke from the back of the engine when I rev it, and the squeal is back. The car builds 22psi of boost insanely fast and feels very strong. I've got either a boost leak, or an exhaust leak, or a combination of both. I'm going to start out by repairing the brakes tomorrow, then pressurize the tailpipe with about 10psi and try to track down the exhaust leak. I'm expecting I may need to at least remove the intake manifold, but who knows. It feels like the car will be really strong once I get these issues addressed. I didn't want to push it hard when I drove it, since I could hardly stop. It was dark when I drove it, so I'm not sure how it was doing for smoke. Hopefully more updates tomorrow...

FYI, I can hit 5psi on the boost gauge by revving the engine in neutral.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Maybe it's my turbo, setup, flow of the head, fuel, or whatever else, but mine feels really strong in the 20-25 range and tapers off as I go higher up unless I floor the pedal.

 

[fletcher0780]

I replaced both rear lines, and rubber hoses, nice to have brakes again. I also did a bit of investigation, disconnected boost pipe from turbo, fired her, up and revved a bit. Guess what, I still had that squeal. Guess it's an exhaust leak, not a boost leak. Pulled the intake and found my problem. the exhaust port on number 3 is not sealing, manifold must be a tad warped. Unfortunately I threw away my old exhaust port gaskets, I ordered a couple more though. My plan is to notch the holes on one of the port gaskets, loosen the exhaust manifold, and slide it in on cyl 3 to double stack that port. Not the most ideal solution, but I think it'll fix my leak and minimize downtime. Once I get the leak fixed, I'll focus on more fuel through bigger nozzles.

I did notice today that the tune seems pretty solid and feels strong. Upon full boost, the gauge will hit 24-25 for a second, then settle back down to 21-22. I've got no smoke anywhere, not even wot, so I should be able to adjust IQ to get a bit more fuel, at least until I order the warp 4's

 

[fastrabbit]

what n75 valve are you running? whats part number?

 

[fletcher0780]

what n75 valve are you running? whats part number?

 

[fastrabbit]

Thanks

 

[fletcher0780]

Just a quick note on the clutch I installed. I used an Exedy VR6 clutch that I orginally bought from Amazon for around $120. Unlike the complaints about the Sachs VR6 clutch, this one does not rattle at all. I haven't put many miles on it yet, so I don't know how well it'll hold, but so far, so good.

 

[fletcher0780]

Alright, I effed up. I just noticed today that I had left a single exhaust manifold gasket on cyl 4, no wonder cyl 3 wouldn't seal. Instead of pulling manifold, turbo, etc., I simply notched out the bolt holes on three port gaskets, loosened manifold, and skid them in place. No leak now!

I've got a slight exhaust rattle where the muffler is hitting the shock at times, I'll deal with that tomorrow. I also need to address the brakes. I replaced some bad lines, but they still feel a bit spongy. I'll try a full bleed and see where that gets me.

I've been having a power steering issue since I bought the car, when it is cold, I have no power assist until the car, and steering fluid warm up. I think the rack is my problem, as the pump doesn't seem to be making any noise, and it works great with warm fluid. I did replace with VW fluid.

I had the windshield replaced and will soon tackle the headliner. Once I've got that done, I should be finished with the cosmetics.

Now on to the running... The malone tune is excellent, the car has never run so smooth, powerful, or smoke free. I make 25 psi before 2000 rpms, then it settles to 22 psi. I've played with the IQ adaption, originally setting to 3.5, but adjusting to 2.8 to see if I could get any smoke. Even under wot in 4th at full boost, I've got no smoke, which leads me to believe I have room for the bigger injectors I've been thinking about. I was going to go with Hflox Warp 4, but have been told they are no longer in production, so I think I will order PP 764's from Kerma, balanced, pop-tested, and set up stage 1. These should be a nice improvement over my VEG .205's and should give me the extra fuel to take advantage of my extra boost. The exhaust is fairly quiet, no drone, but it does have the turbo whistle at idle. I can make almost 10 psi, by revving the car in neutral.

 

[fastrabbit]

Thanks for the update. I need to get the rest of my parts to install mine.

 

[fletcher0780]

I just did some research on improving the braking on the B4's and read this article: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4/girling-g60-brake-caliper-swap.htm

That lead to some shopping (FYI, these are loaded calipers and include the carriers):

and two of these: http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-96122R-Professional-Grade-Brake/dp/rebates/B000JZPK6K

I like the 5 lug swap, but I'm happy with my BBS wheels that I got very cheap, and in order to get the level of braking I'm going to get with the setup described above, I'd still need to upgrade to dual piston calipers, a bigger master cylinder, and larger rotors. I'll be sure to document the install. FYI, this brake project set me back about $280. I guess that means I've got about $2500 in the car now. Will get close to $3000 with the new nozzles.