It's physically impossible to output 50 watts of power on 3 amps @ 12 volts or even @ 14.5 volts.
Yes sir, I learned Ohm's law when I got my Ham Radio license, so I understand the fallacy of those numbers. I understand too that no ballast can be 100 percent efficient, but with that said, I don't know how much power a Philips 85122+ actually uses when connected to a 3Five or 5Five ballast. I'm not sure if my multimeter can survive a test at the lamp itself, but it wouldn't be hard to measure the power consumption at the ballast input. That will be fun to test...I'll report back if you don't find out for yourself before I get my projector setup.
The bulb uses whatever amount of power is supplied by the ballast, or will try to. Remember, it's an arc chamber, not a resistance based filament.Yes sir, I learned Ohm's law when I got my Ham Radio license, so I understand the fallacy of those numbers. I understand too that no ballast can be 100 percent efficient, but with that said, I don't know how much power a Philips 85122+ actually uses when connected to a 3Five or 5Five ballast. I'm not sure if my multimeter can survive a test at the lamp itself, but it wouldn't be hard to measure the power consumption at the ballast input. That will be fun to test...I'll report back if you don't find out for yourself before I get my projector setup.
I did go ahead and order my new headlight assemblies, so at least I have now actually started!
I hear ya...definitely not a job for the novice. I'm not a novice in that regard, but that information wouldn't really be all that useful anyway! All I really care about is the load it puts or the vehicle's electrical system.The bulb uses whatever amount of power is supplied by the ballast, or will try to. Remember, it's an arc chamber, not a resistance based filament.
Kids, don't try this at home:
Never mess around with anything on the output side of the ballast while it's energized. It's a lethal amount of current. Don't want to see you on an episode of "1,000 ways to die". The idea here is to light up your HIDs, not you! (BTW, your multimeter wouldn't survive, either)
I think you'll be pleased with those headlights, especially for the price.
James
Analog for now. Digital will be better for auto-leveling, which will take a little while...
I disabled my DRLs when I went to HIDs. Some ballasts can compensate for the lower voltage of the DRLs, others can be damaged by it.
I don't think my car reduces the voltage to the headlights in the DTR mode...I think it just turns off the tail lights and running lights. If that's true, I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to just let them run, other than the extra run time. On the other hand, the DOT did a study back in 2008 that seems to indicate that DTR don't actually help prevent crashes...(?)
Bent the TFL pin on the headlight switch. You can search and find tons of threads w/ pics on this.
Okay, now that you mention it, I remember reading about that a while back but forgot all about it until you mentioned it. Thanks very much.
Small black box right now with a knob and power switch. Plan on integrating it with the OEM combo switch that replaces the standard dash light rheostat - electronics will be mounted under the dash.
Right now I'm using my own, but I'm planning on integrating the OEM headlight range switch with my electronics, to keep it stock looking.
Opps, typo it is 1J0941333A, not S....
I didn't know they had auto leveling, thought they only had the manually operated motors. That may get way complicated, and expensive.
Yeah, I'd bet the mechanics of the headlights are the same. By all means, please post everything about them!
Hey, I really like that switch...how are you thinking of integrating that with your servos? Would you keep the servo tester and try to replace the pot on the tester with the one in the OEM switch, or what?
Basically, you're right on the money! I may use my own circuit, but it will be very similar to the servo tester's.
Hmmm...I starting to see how this is going to go...having just started, I'm already getting the bug to add level control...and I do like the idea of maintaining a factory-like appearance. I wonder if the the pot values are similar...I guess I would have to buy both a switch and a servo tester to find out!
Ha-ha. Just wait, it only gets worse - seems habit forming.
Oh - they don't actually HAVE them...I see...well, I am almost as quickly disappointed as I was enthusiastic...maybe I could pre-order them...I better go see how much those cost...ACKKK! They're 40 bucks!Ha-ha. Just wait, it only gets worse - seems habit forming.
I don't know about it resistance as I haven't bought the OEM switch, may have to work around it. It would make for a really clean install.
I'm close to being ready to give it a try. Probably as soon as they get more of 'em in stock.
James
Its the deer for the reason I am going with these so I can see what is about to run into me haha.Yeah, I'd bet the mechanics of the headlights are the same. By all means, please post everything about them!
The deer overpopulation problem had me reluctant to travel at night until I retro'd my first HIDs. Now when I travel at night, I usually have a string of vehicles in tow.
James
No, I put it off till today, but it was raining today... I should get to it sometime this weekend.
Yeah, all the OEM stuff I've ever seen is 35W, but it is still alot of light.
No, may have to get that through 1stVWparts.