FS: 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD

DrewD

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Nice rig.

Basic questions that anyone seriously interested would want answers to:

1. Provent or Racor CCV filtration?
2. Assuming you don't have SEGR or GDE tune to eliminate EGR
3. Do you have a lift pump?
4. New or original fuel head?
5. Has it had F37 neuter?
6. Stock TC?
7. Any oil leaks?
8. Has turbo ever been replaced?
9. Do you do turbo cooldown per owners manual?
10. What is your OCI and did you use something else other than Mobil 1 0w-40?
11. WHO REPLACED THE TIMING BELT AT 100K AND WHAT OTHER ITEMS WERE REPLACED?
12. Were diff fluids replaced every 13-15k as suggested by FSM and owners manual?
13. Recall done on ball joints?
14. Any use of fuel additives to improve lubricity?

Thanks for answering these questions.
 
Last edited:

Vdub_Love

Active member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Location
NYC
TDI
Hoping to own one.
Thats what I call an informed consumer. Impatiently waiting for a sellers response.
 

DrewD

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Please don't drive your vehicle until the timing belt is replaced. Its overdue by 15k miles.

I'll explain some of the questions for you.

1. Provent or Racor CCV filtration?
The crankcase ventilation system blows air that is full of oil mist. The oil mist mixes with sooty EGR exhaust gasses causing intake crud buildup and also pools in your intercooler reducing its efficiency A CCV filter removes the oil from the intake eliminating the associated issues.

2. Assuming you don't have SEGR or GDE tune to eliminate EGR
A very brilliant CRD owner developed a device (actually a kit you build yourself) caled a SEGR that disables the EGR without setting off a checkengine light. Green diesel engineering has custom tunes for the CRD which reduces the EGR cycle reducing future failure.

3. Do you have a lift pump? A modern diesel engine should have a lift pump. Jeep got cheap and didn't install one. A lift pump greatly improves start performance and should in theory prolong lifespan of the CP3 pump.

4. New or original fuel head? Stock fuel head is dangerous. It can leak fuel causing fires, it often sucks air causing hart starts. I have a racor fuel head which is a perfect fit. A new OEM replacement fuel head solves the earlier problem.

5. Has it had F37 neuter? To save on warranty costs, the F37 tune reprograms the engine ECU so it outputs less torque and power and modifies the transmission shift points to preserve the weak and crappy torque convertor.

6. Stock TC? See above, stock torque converter is a failure waiting to happen. New European TC seems to be good replacement and the ultimate TC is from suncoast but its pricey.

7. Any oil leaks? Some CRDs leak oil from the integrated valve cover gasket and some others have turbo lines that weep.

8. Has turbo ever been replaced? Failures are starting to show up in folks who don't do mandatory turbo cooldown.

9. Do you do turbo cooldown per owners manual? See above.
10. What is your OCI and did you use something else other than Mobil 1 0w-40? This recommended oil is not rated for use in our engine. Its an old spec oil that is only recommended by jeep to make cafe standards/fuel economy claims. Its not a good diesel oil.

11. WHO REPLACED THE TIMING BELT AT 100K AND WHAT OTHER ITEMS WERE REPLACED? Timing belt is overdue and along with it, rollers, tensionrs, and water pump should be replaced at every 100k. Engine destruction will occur (CRD is an interference engine) if it breaks which is what may happen if you keep driving it on borrowed time.


12. Were diff fluids replaced every 13-15k as suggested by FSM and owners manual? Service schedule is a little excessive. Rear diff fluid sees most wear and front/center diffs can easily go twice as far as long as you don't drive in 4wd each day.


13. Recall done on ball joints? Safety issue, extra weight of crd ENGINE hard on suspension/steering components.

14. Any use of fuel additives to improve lubricity? High Pressure Fuel Pump lasts longer when small amount of biodiesel, low ash 2 stroke oil, or lubricity additivies are used regularly.
 

thekidfan

Veteran Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Location
Dixon, Ca.
TDI
01 Golf 2DR 5 SPD, 02 Golf 4DR 5 SPD
Please don't drive your vehicle until the timing belt is replaced. Its overdue by 15k miles.

I'll explain some of the questions for you.

1. Provent or Racor CCV filtration?
The crankcase ventilation system blows air that is full of oil mist. The oil mist mixes with sooty EGR exhaust gasses causing intake crud buildup and also pools in your intercooler reducing its efficiency A CCV filter removes the oil from the intake eliminating the associated issues.

2. Assuming you don't have SEGR or GDE tune to eliminate EGR
A very brilliant CRD owner developed a device (actually a kit you build yourself) caled a SEGR that disables the EGR without setting off a checkengine light. Green diesel engineering has custom tunes for the CRD which reduces the EGR cycle reducing future failure.

3. Do you have a lift pump? A modern diesel engine should have a lift pump. Jeep got cheap and didn't install one. A lift pump greatly improves start performance and should in theory prolong lifespan of the CP3 pump.

4. New or original fuel head? Stock fuel head is dangerous. It can leak fuel causing fires, it often sucks air causing hart starts. I have a racor fuel head which is a perfect fit. A new OEM replacement fuel head solves the earlier problem.

5. Has it had F37 neuter? To save on warranty costs, the F37 tune reprograms the engine ECU so it outputs less torque and power and modifies the transmission shift points to preserve the weak and crappy torque convertor.

6. Stock TC? See above, stock torque converter is a failure waiting to happen. New European TC seems to be good replacement and the ultimate TC is from suncoast but its pricey.

7. Any oil leaks? Some CRDs leak oil from the integrated valve cover gasket and some others have turbo lines that weep.

8. Has turbo ever been replaced? Failures are starting to show up in folks who don't do mandatory turbo cooldown.

9. Do you do turbo cooldown per owners manual? See above.
10. What is your OCI and did you use something else other than Mobil 1 0w-40? This recommended oil is not rated for use in our engine. Its an old spec oil that is only recommended by jeep to make cafe standards/fuel economy claims. Its not a good diesel oil.

11. WHO REPLACED THE TIMING BELT AT 100K AND WHAT OTHER ITEMS WERE REPLACED? Timing belt is overdue and along with it, rollers, tensionrs, and water pump should be replaced at every 100k. Engine destruction will occur (CRD is an interference engine) if it breaks which is what may happen if you keep driving it on borrowed time.


12. Were diff fluids replaced every 13-15k as suggested by FSM and owners manual? Service schedule is a little excessive. Rear diff fluid sees most wear and front/center diffs can easily go twice as far as long as you don't drive in 4wd each day.


13. Recall done on ball joints? Safety issue, extra weight of crd ENGINE hard on suspension/steering components.

14. Any use of fuel additives to improve lubricity? High Pressure Fuel Pump lasts longer when small amount of biodiesel, low ash 2 stroke oil, or lubricity additivies are used regularly.

Nice explanation of why he is so grossly overpriced, stealers (dealers to some) would've taken care of the obvious and still been asking a few thousand less.
 

procupine14

Veteran Member
Joined
May 20, 2010
Location
Kansas City, MO
TDI
2003 Beetle 5sp
From the looks of the changed original post we are looking at someone who might have been trying to offload this particular vehicle short of doing all of the maintenance required for this particular vehicle.
 

thebigarniedog

Master of the Obvious
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Location
Fail Command (Central Ohio)
TDI
1998 Jetta tdi
From the looks of the changed original post we are looking at someone who might have been trying to offload this particular vehicle short of doing all of the maintenance required for this particular vehicle.
Absolutely. I said it before and I will say it again. You can't hide here. Knowledgable people will ask questions here and the cheapskate/offloader owner can't hide behind feebay's decision to only allow the seller to selectively post questions the seller is willing to answer; CL failure to allow any questions or a dealer's "puffing" combined with the contract "as is" sale. That is not to say that this particular owner is a cheapskate/offloader, because as in life --- you have the right to remain silent, so long as you can handle the pain :D. Good luck on ebay.
 

Wolverine79

Member
Joined
May 3, 2005
Location
Metro Detroit
TDI
-
You're free to say whatever you want about me, the internet makes that easy.

I did just flat out forget about the timing belt, so it's being replaced next week. The regular maintenance stuff has all been done. Those things are easy to remember since they are "regular" and not once every 100k miles.

Most of the other add-on stuff he was talking about I've never heard of. That seems to make me not up to par around here. *shrug* You guys just seem to work on your cars way more than I do.
 

thebigarniedog

Master of the Obvious
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Location
Fail Command (Central Ohio)
TDI
1998 Jetta tdi
You're free to say whatever you want about me, the internet makes that easy.

I did just flat out forget about the timing belt, so it's being replaced next week. The regular maintenance stuff has all been done. Those things are easy to remember since they are "regular" and not once every 100k miles.

Most of the other add-on stuff he was talking about I've never heard of. That seems to make me not up to par around here. *shrug* You guys just seem to work on your cars way more than I do.
Please do not let the dealer do the timing belt. Btw, no one has said anything about you. The conversation is on whether the vehicle has been maintained properly or not --- that goes to what the vehicle is worth. That is the only reason the questions were asked. You stressed the relative rarity of your vehicle --- okay, the next question is has it been properly serviced. If so, it is worth a premium --- if not, well that affects price. Thats about it --- not about whether you are a good person or not.

In any event, good luck and happy holidays.
 

DrewD

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Wolverine, where are you located? There are CRD gurus in most major cities that can help you do a timing belt job correctly.

AVOID the dealership at all costs. Odds are they will not use the correct tools and procedure and just use the pray and mark method of replacing the belt instead of locking camshafts with pins etc...etc... Dealer mechanics are paid a flat rate for their work. For example, lets say that a timing belt is a 10 hour job per the book that they use to charge the customer labor rates. A mechanic will get paid for a lesser amount of time, say 6 hours. If he takes longer, he doesn't get paid any extra labor for the job. If he takes only 4 hours to do the job, he still gets paid for the 6 hour flat rate and can make more money working on other vehicles/jobs. This is why it is so hard to get a quality repair job done at a dealership (and most other shops nowadays). Mechanics are doing everything they can to earn a living and the only way to make a decent wage is to cut corners, use as many shortcuts possible and work as fast as humanely possible. Its not the mechanic's fault per se, but just the way the system is set up.

This is why on an electricl repair job years ago on a Nissan, the mechanic used electrical tape to split new wiring together instead of soldering and using heat shrink tape. This is why on anther vehicle, a dealer tech failed to reinstall all electrical connnectors and even a couple of vaccuum lines. This is why a dealer tech failed to add oil to my engine on a 2000 Nissan Xterra that had a tow package w/ an oil cooler installed (engine oil/filter change done at dealership since it was there..usually do my own oil change). etc...etc...etc... I can't say it enough, if you want it done right, do it yourself.
 

DrewD

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Oh, forgot to mention, almost everything I wanted to know about your vehicle are issues that I learned about from www.lostkjs.com

I'm a former two time TDI owner and I have a kinship with TDI owners and only want them to get the best possible vehicle for their hard earned money. I own and drive two Jeep CRDs, an 06 liberty and an 07 Grand Cherokee.

I meant you no personal offense.

Merry Christmas.
 
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