1990 Toyota 22RE 4x4 Engine Swap

e*clipse

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May 9, 2007
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Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Perhaps I was unclear. I meant the steering was too easy to turn. I would prefer more effort at the wheel and more feedback.

Good to hear about the snake oil... :)
 

LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
It runs!

After i buttoned up the wiring, it took a couple minutes to bleed the system and it fired right up.

Now here is the bad, there is absolutely no oil pressure going to the turbo. I cracked the oil filter when it was running and there is lots of oil going through it, so there is some oil pressure. I was trying to bleed the line by sucking oil through it then as soon as i got oil i would put my thumb on it and start it, but there was nothing not even a drip. Any ideas? My vacuum pump appears to be working as i do have power brakes.

I will try and post the initial start up video later,e i have some reading to do now.

Luke
 

Ski in NC

Top Post Dawg
Joined
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2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
Where is turbo oil supply coming from? Hard to believe the line is clogged. I seriously wonder if you have real oil pressure. Is vacuum pump installed (that drives the oil pump). Verify with a gauge that you have good oil pressure. The guys building the '85 IDI engine trashed it by running with no pressure and no gauge.
 

jimbote

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spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
hope you get this sorted out...you'll need a 10x1mm adapter for your oil pressure gauge.... I got mine here http://fittingsandadapters.com/malmettofemp.html ...you can screw a small gauge with a 1/8 pipe thread right in this adapter ....one issue with the auxiliary shaft engines is the two bearings for the auxiliary shaft will wear and reduce oil pressure to the entire engine...
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I guess i better get a gauge and wire up the warning lights. I think i am going to try to re-install the vacuum pump and try again. I know that there was oil pressure when i ran the engine in the car before i pulled it, i did remove the vacuum pump at some point so hopefully it relates to faulty installation. If that doesn't show instant improvement, i will pull the engine and do all of the maintenance stuff (timing belt, tensioner, idler, intermediate shaft bearings, head gasket, valve guides, lifters.... anything else?). When everything is apart i can inspect the oil pump for any obvious problems. Unless someone has some other ideas?

There is 4L of oil in the engine right now and it is showing full on the dipstick, i think i will punch the oil pan out somewhere to increase the capacity closer to 5L.

Thanks,

Luke
 

jimbote

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spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
have you done a compression check?...also you may want to replace the oil pump...an inspection of just the gears may not tell all as it could have a faulty pressure relief valve/spring ...if compression is good I would just inspect the rods and mains and replace the aux shaft bearing...of course a set of rings can be had for only around $100 :)
 

Ski in NC

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2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
Make sure vacuum pump is fully seated. It has a slot that engages the oil pump tang. If not lined up, the vacuum pump won't seat and oil pump won't drive.
 

LukeWilson

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Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
That's where i am going to start, i tried to get there before class today but i seem to have picked up a sinus infection and i took sleep instead.

Luke
 

410onefour

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Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
If you have to change the intermediate shaft bearings, I'm sure you have enough room to remove the shaft with the engine installed in the truck. You can make your own bearing installation tools using some threaded rod and proper sized cups.

I bought my bearings from napa that don't need reaming after install. If you want I can dig up the part#. They were fairly cheap, about $25 I think.

This might not be your oil pressure problem but this is always worth doing on these engines.
 

LukeWilson

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Ottawa, ON
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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I intended on doing them before i put the engine in, i want to do a whole bunch of maintenance things that aren't worth the wrestling match if i leave the engine in. I am just really hoping that i have not wrecked anything else as a result of no oil pressure.

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Location
Ottawa, ON
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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Update:


I was talking to the VW shop i used to work for and it was suggested that i remove the vacuum pump and put a drill on the oil pump shaft. There was absolutely no way to get a drill onto the shaft because of the firewall. I welded up a notched extension that fit on the shaft and could be chucked up in the drill. As soon as i started to spin it, there was definite resistance, but still no oil to the turbo. Then i managed to drop a bolt into the vacuum pump hole and could not seem to find it, so i pulled the engine out. With all of the practice i have putting the engine in and out, it only took me about an hour to have it out on the floor. I am now going to try and solve this oil pressure mystery and freshen up the engine at the same time. I am hoping to go see my kick-ass machinist this weekend and try and get him to help me put some new valve guides in and press in the intermediate shaft bearings.

That's all for now,

Luke
 

jimbote

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Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
Hey Luke...I have a custom oil primer that will work for your engine...it's made from a old vacuum pump with a socket welded to the shaft...If you would like I can send to you :)
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Thanks for the offer Jimbote, the tool i made does essentially the same thing, only its a little less elegant. I was looking at the oil pump shaft and there is a fair bit of wear on it. Is it a bad idea to weld it up and machine it down? Or should i just cough up the $100 and order a new one?

Luke
 

410onefour

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Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
It's very common for this shaft to be worn. It rarely causes a problem and unless it is half gone I wouldn't worry about it. There will be other things to spend your money on as the project progresses.
I had primed my engine using a drill and socket on the intermediate shaft at the front of the motor. The drill needs reverse and has to be a fair size. I smoked the first drill doing this. But it worked well. And the timing belt has to be off of course.
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Well i had a little chat with the machinist i use today and he had some not so great news. His opinion was that if the turbo was not getting oil, the rest of the engine was not getting oil. His thoughts are that assuming the oil pump was pumping the bypass should still have let oil circulate. He is also guessing that because of the length of time the engine was run without oil (a minute-ish plus some cranking without the pump plugged in) that the main bearing and con rod bearings are likely toasted. I am going to confirm this before i start ripping the entire engine apart, but he is likely right as he is very experienced with engine building (and also drives VW diesels). So my plan now is to put main and con rod bearings in as well as hone the cylinders and put fresh rings in. The engine has 420,000 km on it and although it was showing no signs of problems in the original car, now is the obvious time to do this. He is always interested in helping people learn a dieing trade of rebuilding instead of replacing, so the cost of labor will not be to high. I am thinking the bearings and standard piston rings will be in the the $150-200 range just looking at some of the well regarded online dealers. The big issues now is to figure out why there is no oil pressure so that i do not repeat my mistake.

I think live and learn applies here,

Luke
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Some good news! Today i revamped the tool to spin the oil pump, the good news is it started pouring out of my pressure remote oil line like a garden hose. So i'm going to scratch the last plan of an engine rebuild because i figure i was getting oil pressure to the rest of the engine. Another sign this is true is that there was lots of brand new looking oil in the cylinder head when i took the valve cover off. My thinking is that if its not broken don't mess with it.

Now the not so good news: I still cannot get oil to the turbo feed line. I don't understand how this is possible but i have some pictures that will hopefully help you guys explain this to me.
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Ok so here is my oil filter housing:


When i pour water in the right arrow, i get water out the top and bottom arrows. Now is the bottom arrow the return for filtered oil or is it oil going to be filtered? I don't understand how i can have oil going to the oil filter but not to the turbo when it comes from the same place?

Also do i need to replace the oil pump shaft (sorry for the crappy picture):



My new and improved plan is to replace the timing belt, tensioner and idler, valve guides and seals and intermediate shaft bearings. I was going to take the head off tonight but i don't have a triple square socket.

That's all for now,

Luke
 

jimbote

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spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
the threaded pipe is where the filtered oil begins its journey to the rest of the engine :)
...make sure the banjo bolt is not a check valve type....one way out/in
 
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LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I no longer have a banjo bolt for the turbo feed line. It is a hydraulic line with a straight fitting on that end. I guess this proves that there is something up with my remote filter setup. I am assuming there is a oil bypass and that it is not a full flow system?

Thanks,

Luke
 

jimbote

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spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
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Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
was your remote filter setup a "bypass filter"? ...if so then that type of filter setup will only flow a very small amount of oil, they use a restrictor fitting somewhere between .025 and .040 (at least the ones I have seen) ...check the remote filter housing and hoses for any fittings with a restrictor orifice and get rid of it
 

LukeWilson

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Ottawa, ON
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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
There are no restrictions in the line. I have come up with two possibilities, one is i had the two lines mixed up on the oil filter end meaning oil was going through the filter in the wrong direction or the filter i am using is too restrictive. It is a little tiny thing off of a honda civic. I am only using it right now because it has the correct 20 x 1.5 metric threads i need.

Thanks for the suggestions jimbote,

Luke
 

Ski in NC

Top Post Dawg
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Location
Wilmington, NC USA
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
So you spin oil pump with vac pump out, and get oil flow. OK there. Question is, with vac pump in, did oil pump spin??\

So put vac pump back in, un-tension timing belt tensioner, and spin intermediate shaft anti-clockwise and see if you get flow then.

My wonder is if vac pump somehow was not driving oil pump., or if timing belt was skidding on intermediate shaft pulley.
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I can try spinning the intermediate shaft with the vac pump in tomorrow, i am starting to think there is something screwy with the remote filter setup.

Thanks,

Luke
 

Tdi Kick

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91 Sidekick AHU, '05 Passat Variant BHW, '03 Passat Variant BHW 4MO
Remote Filter and Oil Filter Housing

Luke,

Do your project a massive favour and ditch that oil filter housing, and throw the remote filter into a blast furnace.

The stock AHU housing points straight down, and as we swappers find out, it can interfere with fabbing a left side engine mount, hence having to relocate the filterto create space.

A buddy of mine runs a VW/Audi shop. I was wandering around his parts storage area, while in the midst of my conversion in '08, and found a gasser audi turbo 4 cyl engine on the ground. I seriously had a "EUREKA!" moment when I found that its oil filter housing is angled backwards!

It bolts right up. Same gasket and all, AND uses the same OEM TDi filter.

For me, its ports worked REALLY well, too, as I have a mechanical gauge AND I had to use the stock Suzuki oil press switch to get my low oil light to function correctly.

I DID have to fab a custom oil line to the turbo, yet I had to do that anyway to accomodate an oil temp probe, so this was a no brainer for me.

Before I discovered this, I was running a remote filter setup. I had so many leakage and hose problems with it I was ECSTATIC to throw it as far as I could:D:D:D:D

Good Luck!
 

LukeWilson

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Ottawa, ON
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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Good news!

I put my vac pump in and spun the intermediate shaft, oil starts flying everywhere. More good news: I switched the lines going to the remote filter, the turbo oil line is now getting oil. There must have been some kind of check valve in there somewhere. I am going to use this setup right now and look for the angled filter housing.

On another note, i took the head off and everything looks A-ok. Any suggestions for removing carbon without scratching cylinder bores or gasket surfaces? Hopefully i will have a complete engine tomorrow ready to go back in the truck.

Thanks for all your suggestions,

Luke
 

Ski in NC

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Wilmington, NC USA
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2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
Luke- Many spin on filters have "non-drain" valves internal to them. So if they are plumbed backwards, they will stop oil flow completely. Oil should flow into the outer diameter part of the filter, and come out of the center threaded hole and go to the engine.

If you had oil lines for the remote filter hooked up wrong, the filter will block flow and starve the engine for oil. So the bearings did run dry as the turbo line did not flow.

While you have it apart, check the main and rod bearings to make sure they did not wipe. Sounds like you ran it only briefly, so they may be ok. But check.
 

LukeWilson

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Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
It was a good day at the machinists, there was very little that i actually needed to change. We checked the main and con rod bearings and they checked out fine, so i guess i got lucky there. We checked the intermediate shaft bearings and there was only 2-3 thousandths of play so we left them as well. I changed the front and rear crank seals and i still need to do the valve seals. I guess 97 had two different sizes of valves and of course i got the wrong size of seals.

He also came up with an ingenious idea to lock the crank for timing belt changes. Since the VW crank was timed using the flywheel and a pointer on the transmission and since i am using neither of these VW parts i would have to make my own marks. What we did was drill a 1/4" hole in the adapter plate above the starter, then we bolted a plate on the top of the cylinder head over piston 1. We spun the crank until the piston hit the plate in one direction and used a centering punch in the adapter plate hole to make a mark on the flywheel. Then we spun the engine over the other direction until the piston hit the plate and made another mark. Then i measured the distance between the two marks and scribed a line perpendicular to the edge of the flywheel. We rotated the flywheel until the line lined up with the centering punch and made another mark. Then i took the flywheel off and drilled a hole about a 1/4" deep into the flywheel. Now when i want to lock the crank i just need to line up the two holes and put in a 1/4" pin. I will take some pictures tomorrow to help explain this but it works great and will make timing belts a cinch.

Luke
 

410onefour

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2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
That is a great idea on locking the crank! I might have to do the same thing when my motor comes out again. There's nothing like having a good machinist for a friend.

I hope you can get your remote oil filter setup figured out. I am running oil filter assembly off of a fox. I had to build a plate to adapt it to the block and it works great. It sweeps the oil filter back where there is tons of room for it.

I have recently learned that the oil filter assembly off of a 1.8t in the 1997-2006 a4, a6 and vw passat would bolt right up to the block and sweep the oil filter back where it should be.

Keep up the good work. You're going to love this truck once you're done.
 
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