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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old July 2nd, 2004, 06:25   #16
weedeater
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Default Glow plugs 101 ***Ver. 2.0***

I doubt that it is 'higher voltage'. Both are 12 volts. But the resistance values must be different, hence the code. Perhaps the new plug burns hotter (higher current).
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Old July 2nd, 2004, 09:36   #17
supton
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Hey Brucep, quick question for you: For years now I've used crimp connectors and then soldered the crimps. I only make wire connections like a handful of times per year, and have yet to master how to crimp properly, so when I have to join wires I usually solder the crimp terminal after soldering. Comments on this method?

Supposedly, or so I'm told, soldering (in general) makes for a weaker wire because of the wire being stiffened (solder flowing back beyond any strain relief on many crimp connections). This is why OEM's only use crimp terminals for connectors -- but they make way more of them than I do, and do a much better job at it.

These days, when I have to join two wires together, if I don't use something like an Anderson Powerpole, I tend to use a couple of ring terminals and a number 6 screw to bolt 'em together. Then I can always undo whatever I did. Only thing is, it has to be covered with electrical tape afterwards.
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Old July 2nd, 2004, 11:28   #18
debensey
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Thank you all for the great info. This is certainly educational for me.
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Old July 2nd, 2004, 12:03   #19
debensey
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I found a better price for the Deoxit D5:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...-200&DID=7
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Old July 5th, 2004, 17:28   #20
brucep
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Shawn

As I said above, most jobbers use crimp connectors for the speed that they can be done. They are not very interested in how LONG the fix will last. When I work on my own stuff, I desire a lasting fix that I do not have to revisit again.


You have discovered that the factory uses HYDROLIC crimpers with tool-steel heads. It is hard to duplicate that at home with a $20 crimp tool. I have used $100 hand-crimpers that approximate the hydroilic ones, but a good soldering gun and some rosin-core solder is a lot cheeper.

Certanily soldering after crimping makes for a better conneciton that can handle more current and has measurably less resistance. I usually do this on any car I buy. (I solder all connetions I can find) This is especially true for all of the crimp-ons that serve as ground connections under the hood.

Soldering does not make the wire "weaker" but as you say, if the solder is allowed to "wick" into stranded wire, it will be stiffer. Proper use of heat-sinks will eliminate any such wicking. Properly solderd wires should have all the strands showing, If the strands of the wire are not clearly visible, too much solder was used. (milatary soldering 101 )

Using ring terminals (both crimped on) then screwing together makes for a bulky conenciton that would have measurable resistance. It is far easier to just solder together. If removal is neded, cut out the solderd area.

Good electrical tape has no equal and is not found in WallMart. 3M-brand electrical tape is the perferred choice over heat-shrink tubing. Good electrical tape will stretch like a rubber-band as you apply it, then it 'shrinks' to make a very tight waterproof seal.

Quality heatshrink tubing will shrink up to 1/2 of its originl size but a special heat gun is needed to activate it. The heat needed to shrink it is nearly enough to melt solder (and any other nearby plastic or wire insulation)
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Old July 13th, 2004, 08:50   #21
tdi369
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p
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Old July 13th, 2004, 10:54   #22
rlotz
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Success!

I just wanted to give a big thanks to Wingnut and FlyTDIGuy (Pat) for their help replacing my glowplug! After reading Wingnut's howto I decided to replace my own #1 glowplug after getting the associated CEL and testing each via a voltmeter. I purchased a replacement bosch plug from a local parts outlet, and attempted to replace it at a little mini-gtg a while back. Unfortunately the threads on the new glow plug weren't cut right (very flat and not sharp as they should have been). With Pat's help (and torque wrench) I saved myself from stripping or damaging the glowplug hole. We put the bad plug back in until I could get a replacement plug.

My later purchase of Beru (to match the original plug) and replacement turned out fine. I did it while helping a friend with his 40k maintenance last week. The plug torqued down and the code cleared and hasn't been back sense.

For now I'm declaring a success
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Old July 13th, 2004, 12:19   #23
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Great post!! My gp's and harness are being replaced under warranty today! This will come in handy in the future no doubt. Good work.
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Old July 18th, 2004, 09:34   #24
debensey
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ttt
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Old August 25th, 2004, 13:36   #25
anahata
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Great info and dedication from you Wingnut; and such detail!! This is going to be very useful [favorite thread]. One question....
TDI 101 states that all 4 plugs should be replaced since resistance values change over time but it seems that you and others are doing single plug replacements. Could you explain? (I'm a novice)
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Old August 25th, 2004, 14:19   #26
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Many people say to change all 4 because that is what is stated in the Bentley. But it is not necessarily true. You have to use some judgement and replace them accordingly. If you have one that fails at say 50k, then its likely a fluke. Why replace all if you don't have to? Kust replace the bad one and wait till the light returns again to see which plug goes next. But if you have say 150k on the car, then you might as well change all 4 as you have gotten plenty of use out of the originals.

It also depends on your comfort level. Maybe you prefer to only have to do the job once and replace them in one shot and be done with it? If you only change one at 50k and then 20k later another one goes, you might get annoyed about having to to the job again so soon? Bottom line is, you do not HAVE to change all 4 at once, but if you have high mileage, why not?
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Old August 30th, 2004, 18:57   #27
anahata
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Thanks Wingnut, one more question:
Does a 2001 car (golf) that came with a whole set of Beru plugs need to stick with those? Or, can it run on a complete set of the Bosches even though I'm hearing that the two kinds cannot be used together? I'm really curious about this.
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Old September 3rd, 2004, 11:03   #28
Davin
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Just thought I'd mention... I mail-ordered my can of Deoxit D-5, but for those of us in the West I noticed the other day that Fry's carries it in the electronics section with the other chemicals. I believe that they also had the Deoxit compatible with gold connectors.
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Old September 4th, 2004, 18:40   #29
DVDVW
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Thank you Wingnut. I have problems with the coolant glow plugs, and was wondering how to solve it by myself.

You answerd to all my questions. Thanks again
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Old September 7th, 2004, 11:29   #30
Wingnut
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Quote:
Thanks Wingnut, one more question:
Does a 2001 car (golf) that came with a whole set of Beru plugs need to stick with those? Or, can it run on a complete set of the Bosches even though I'm hearing that the two kinds cannot be used together? I'm really curious about this.
If you change all 4, it doesn't matter which brand you go with. Many members have also mixed brands with no problems either, so you could try it first to see how it reacts in your car. It would save you $60 only having to buy 1 instead of 4, but might be more work in the end if you have to go and change them all after if it doesn't work with one? Those who say not to mix are just relaying the information thats in the Bentley manual. But real world results often differ from what that manual states on many other topics. So go ahead and try it and see. Worst case would be that it doesn't work and you have to change the other 3. It won't hurt anything. Let us know how it turns out so others can gain from your experience.
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