Every 1.6D engine I had in the past had a leaking dieselpump. Never had problems starting though and I think you might have a problem with your glowplugs.
But you are right assuming the bad starting can be caused by the leaks.
I have replaced those seals before and there is a repairkit for the throttle lever but I don't recall the partnumber.
Don't know if this
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Leaking Injector Pump Cure Most older VW diesels I've seen use the Bosch fuel injection pump, though some use the CAV system. The problems I've seen with the injection pumps is that they begin leaking fuel either from the pulley shaft, throttle shaft, or cold start lever shaft whether caused by high mileage or the low sulphur bilgewater being sold as diesel fuel these days. By far the most common leak (and most damaging)is from the pulley shaft seal. A leak at this point quickly contaminates the rubber drivebelt causing premature failure of the belt which can destroy the motor if not corrected before breakage occurs. On my 1981 Rabbit diesel L, the original fuel pump began leaking badly at the pulley shaft seal. I bought a salvage yard pump which had the same problem, and then another junk pump which did not work at all. Since a new VW pump costs $1,300.00, a rebuilt unit runs in the neighborhood of $400.00, and even a junk yard unit fetches $150.00, I figured that there had to be a better way to fix a simple leak on an otherwise perfectly functioning pump. There is! On the Bosch pumps (at least from 1977 to 1984) the pulley shaft seal measures 28mm OD, 17mm ID and 7mm in width. Take a screwdriver and pop out the old leaking seal taking care not to scratch the shaft or the pump body. Look carefuly for the seal number which needs considerable magnification to read. A typical number will read "Kaco 8 DF17.28.7 VOT". Use this number even if you damaged the seal numbers during removal. No go to a bearing warehouse, or to a rubber and gasket and get a replacement seal. The reference number for this seal is Chicago Rawhide 6610 (metal body) or 6614 (rubber body). Either seal works fine, but make sure the seal lip is rated R, P or V which means the seal will withstand diesel fuel. A typical 6614 replacement seal is "CR 17x28x7 HMS4 R". Using a brass hammer and suitable sized deep well socket, drive the new seal fully into the seat on the pump housing. Put the thing back together and viola!....your pump will work as well as ever while leaking nary a drop of fuel. I had one salvage yard "guru" tell me that the seal would not work since Chicago Rawhide seals are not rated for high pressure. However, the pulley shaft seal is not exposed to high pressure. It is at the low pressure intake end....the high pressure side of the pump is at the outlets on the far end. Trust me.....the fix works. And, all for a paltry $3.95. If your Bosch pump is leaking, try this simple fix, you'll be glad you did! And P.S., if you ever have reason to take the timing belt cover off a VW diesel engine, leave the damn thing off. Since the VW diesel is an interference engine (meaning it self destructs upon belt breakage), you'll want to keep an eye on the condition of the belt without having a piece of tin hiding a future catastrophe from your eyes. A little bit of diesel leakage goes a long way in ruining a rubber drive belt in only a few thousand miles.
Thomas E. Jones <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Nashville, TN USA - Monday, November 20, 2000 at 18:11:41 (PST)
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