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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old June 1st, 2005, 08:18   #16
Audi5000td
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Default Re: 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking

I can confirm, do PM or email Harv, he usually has a VE4 seal kit in stock and has the socket also. Plus he has the knowledge.

I will be trying to get to his shop this week to do my injector pump seals.
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Old June 2nd, 2005, 19:20   #17
Audi5000td
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Default B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HOW TO

Whew!

OK folks, I've seen Leonard Harvieux in a new light. Today, we changed out the seals on my injector pump, both upper and lower on the Quantity Adjuster portion of my Bosch VE-4.

Harvieux deserves all the credit for setting up a Great indexing system for putting things back in place.

Enclosed are some pics.

This is a top down view of your injector pump, hidden underneath that noise deadening black TDI cover. Note the unusual proprietary Bosch bolt head in the lower left side of the photo. It requires a special socket.



Harvieux, goes and sprays the lower left hand side of the pump with degreaser, wipes all residue and oil/goo off, then he takes an indelible black marker and marks all around the left front corner. The purpose of this is to control the amount of left and right lateral position when repositioning the Quantity Adjuster body.




Here is another view from the top.



This screw that holds the electrical cable needs to be removed before you start undoing the bolts on the top and bottom sections of the Quatity Adjuster to replace the seals.



After replacing the seals, first the upper seal gets changed out, then the lower seal, paying attention to where the "ears" are on the new gaskets, loosely tighten all the bolts after you have placed the lower section EXACTLY back where you marked it in black indelible ink. If you see fresh metal between the black, the QA MUST be moved ever so slightly towards the pump pulley to remove the gap of metal showing.

Get it in position, and snug the bolts up without moving the QA housing. Be very careful and do not lose the washers on the bolts.


It is important to fix leaking pumps almost as soon as you discover the leaks. Failure to do so can cause fuel damage to the hoses to the water pump directly underneath the Injector Pump.

Harvieux replaced the QA body back on my pump, and upon checking the figs on the VAG COM, I was flowing at 4.6 mg per pump stroke, which is a middle of the road position.

This is an example of hoses that have seen too much seepage of diesel fuel and are bound to fail soon, and in dire need of replacement. Note the bulges and swelling just behind the clamps.





This hose T will need replacing also.





The final adjustment muyst be done with a warmed up motor and a VAG-COM to check your quantities. See the "Hammer Mod" for fine tuning the placement of the body while the VAGCOM is on and your motor is running, then snug the bolts up and clean up your tools.

WARNING ! Under no circumstances should you start the motor up if there is a metal gap showing between your index mark of black ink and the Q. A. Lower Body. The body will be located too close to the pump head, and out of range of the Q A and can cause a runaway motor which might be unstoppable and result in destroying your engine. If you see a metal gap showing reposition the Q A minisculely closer to the pulley/timiong belt side of the pump to remedy this.

After you have snugged the Q A body loosely, go and pull the return line form your #1 injector, located nearest the timing belt. Attach a vacuum pump to the return line, and pump up the pump to create a vacuum and get fuel into your injector pump body, as well as get all the air out of the fuel line system. Doing this will save your starter and about 10 minutes of cranking. Activate the vacuum pump until all the air bubbles air purged from the lines and you are sucking pure fuel.

Please understand this.... Harvieux or myself take no responsibility in your understanding or lack therof of these instructions and and pictures. You are underwriting your own liablity in using these pictues and information. This is provided as a knowledge base for people with very high mechancial inclinations and abilities.

And a Thank You to Harvieux for sharing this useful maintenance tip to get things just right. You have to have replaced quite a few seals to be able to put the QA back on and get it right the first time, without the QA needing any adjustment. We did confirm this with a VAG COM reading.
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Old June 3rd, 2005, 05:43   #18
Stan TDI
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Default Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HOW TO

Thanks for the great post with pictures! Now if I could see a picture of what has to be done for the hammer mod portion of this process, I would be very happy.

BTW...did you replace the fuel temp sensor while you had it apart?
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Old June 3rd, 2005, 09:59   #19
Audi5000td
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Default Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Do a "search" but basically, the hammer mod is having the bolts on the QA just snug, and placing a wooden handle of a hammer against the body of the QA and gently tapping the QA while you have VAG-COM hooked up, to see if your mg are goin gup or down. To the pulley brings the number up, to the pump head brings the numbers down. Get them where you need them... You check the VAG com figure before you start this project for baseline figures. 2.4 to 2.8 mg/stroke was what mine was set at before I started this project.

Once you got the VAG-Com numbers adjusted back to what they were before you started, you cinch the bolts tight, locking the QA body in it's proper place.
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Old June 3rd, 2005, 10:34   #20
Stan TDI
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Default Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Thanks Audi500td! I have reviewed this before and it is just on obvious to me based on the descriptions. I did a search again and it is a little clearer I think. I just loosen the top 4 bolts 1/2 to 1 turn and tap the top of the pump towards the passenger side (in my case); and, set IQ to default before I do this. It sounds easy enough.
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Old June 3rd, 2005, 19:26   #21
Audi5000td
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Default Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

No, you loosen the bottom 3 bolts and one of the top 4, as I recall. You don't want to move the lid, you want to move the whole assy left or right.
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Old August 27th, 2005, 11:34   #22
Audi5000TDI
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Default Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Moderator,

Can we make this a "Sticky" since it comes up so frequently in the A3/B4 Maintenance section so frequently?

As we move to ULSD in 2006, it will be a certainty that injector pumps everywhere start leaking all over, due to the lower aromatic content of ULSD and shrinking of the seals as a result.

Thanks!
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Old September 24th, 2006, 15:03   #23
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Default Leaky Injection Pump (IP)

Leaking IP can be solved the hard way by installing the various seals. The easy way out is as follows:

1. Locate the source of the leak, usually the joint or crack between mating surfaces.
2. Clean the area with brake cleaner or other solvent and dry it.
3. From Pep Boys or other auto parts stores, buy J-B Weld (it comes in two tubes). Mix the compounds in the two tubes in equal proportion. Stir the mixture for some time (or follow the direction on the tubes) and then apply over the joint where the leaks eminates. Let it dry for 4-6 hours.
4. After curing, feel free to drive.

By this way, you solved the problem for ever.

Last edited by Dodoma; October 7th, 2006 at 22:08.
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Old September 24th, 2006, 17:03   #24
oldiesel
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Exclamation Pump seal kit

I ordred the seal kit and fuel temp sensor for my AHU from Impex and had it in a couple of days .The seal kit SKU#5522404 $15.55 and temp sensor SKU #117283 $17.60. i used my dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in the head of the special bolt and did not find that this was a difficult job to do,i marked the position of the cover very carefully before removing it and put it back on the same mark.It is very critical to position the cover EXACTLY where it was before you started.After i put it back together as carefully as i could it started right up and ran OK but did not have the power at low rpm that it had before. I do not have a vag com so i contacted forum member Jun Vega and he adjusted my IQ and now the car runs just fine.At the same time he saw that my timing was in the lower part of the allowable range so we brought that up a bit too,time will tell if that makes a difference in mileage.As a side note my car with +200k miles did not leak until i let it sit without running for about 3 months.
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Old September 25th, 2006, 07:51   #25
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Default

I am reading this post with interest as I prepare to take on the same project with my '96 Passat. I am wondering if the low-sulfer fuel is a contributing factor.

Is there a thread from Audi5000TD that had the photos available anywhere? I looked and could not find the pictures.

I just read through a series of posts regarding buying an Ebay cable and using shareware to set up a poor-man's version of a VAG COM and get the picture that it's a little like spitting into the wind. Im going to see if I can find a local TDI guru with a registered Vag Com and the experience to go along with it.

---
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Old September 25th, 2006, 16:49   #26
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This is my take on a how-to for replacing the top and middle seals on the injection pump. It's gleaned from help that nine_dee_golf_tdi gave me plus reading the several sticky topics related.

http://anglo-hexon.net:88/tdi/ip_seals/
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Old September 27th, 2006, 07:34   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodoma
Leaking IP can be solved the hard way by installing the various seals. The easy way out is as follows:

1. Locate the source of the lead, usually the joint or crack between mating surfaces.
2. Clean the area with brake cleaner or other solvent and dry it.
3. From Pep Boys or other auto parts stores, buy J-B Weld (it comes in two tubes). Mix the compounds in the two tubes in equal proportion. Stir the mixture for some time (or follow the direction on the tubes) and then apply over the joint where the leaks eminates. Let it dry for 4-6 hours.
4. After curing, feel free to drive.

By this way, you solved the problem for ever.
Are you actually suggesting that someone apply J-B Weld over the exterior of the pump where the leak is originating instead of just simply replacing a cheap seal or two? I'm not even going to start explaining why this is just a terrible idea, am I misunderstanding something? mouth covered by hand: cough-HACK-cough-cough
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Old September 28th, 2006, 05:44   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jollyGreenGiant
...I'm not even going to start explaining why this is just a terrible idea, am I misunderstanding something?...
No you aren't misunderstanding...

Fuel pump
Fuel line
Oil pan
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Old September 28th, 2006, 17:09   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Bell

NOTE to Self* Never buy a car from dodoma......
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Old October 1st, 2006, 13:14   #30
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Yikes!
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