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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old April 3rd, 2004, 19:04   #1
Wingnut
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

I assisted another member today to do some suspension work and thought I would document it for others to reference. Among other things, we changed the sway bar bushings. This is a common wear item on the MKIV chassis. You can tell you need new bushings if you hear a clunking noise when going over bumps or potholes.

Tools required:

13mm socket for removing the bushing clamps
16mm socket for undoing endlink (5/8" will also work)
Prybar or screwdriver for leverage.
Needle nose Vice-grips to squeeze new clamp (can also use a longer bolt instead)

Parts required:

2 bushings: 1J0 411 314G
2 clamps: 1J0 411 336D

If you have a pre 2002 car, you will need new clamps. They changed the design of the clamps & bushings, so just to be safe, get the clamps as well. 2002 & newer should have the new style clamps. You can turn the wheel & look into the wheel well to see what type you have if you are not sure.

Here is a picture of the parts. Old ones on the left & new ones on the right:


Jack up both sides of the car & secure with jackstands for safety. It is easier to do it this way since you need to disconnect the swaybar endlinks and it is difficult to do with pressure on it with one wheel on the ground. Once the car is up & the wheels are removed, disconnect the endlinks with a 16mm socket:


With both sides disconnected, the swaybar should move freeley up & down. Remove the clamp that holds the bushing with a 13mm socket:


Use a prybar or flat head screwdriver to remove the clamp from the old bushing:


Slide the bushing out & remove it from the sway bar:


Instalation is the opposite of removal. Put the new bushing on the bar. Some people like to apply some grease to the new bushing to keep the squeeking down. Just make sure you use a grease that is rubber friendly so it doesn't eat the rubber. Here is the new bushing in place:


Because the parts are new, the clamp is difficult to place over the bushing. Because the bolt is too short to fit just yet, the clamp has to be squeezed into place to allow the replacement of the bolt. Use a pair of needle nose vice-grips to force the clamp into place. If you don't have these pliers, a longer bolt can be used to tighten it down. Then remove it and replace with the original bolt. Here is the vice-grip option:


Now just tighten up al the bolts & repeat on the other side. The torque specs are as follows:

Bushing clamp: 18 ft-lb
Sway bar end link: 33 ft-lb

If anyone has any other suggestions or if I left anything out, please feel free to let me know.
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Old April 3rd, 2004, 19:31   #2
VelvetFoot
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement

Good work. Thanks!
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Old April 4th, 2004, 11:43   #3
billmn
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement

Wingnut
Great work! I love having pics when someone is explaining how to do something! I replaced the swaybar links thinking this would correct the rattling in hy front end but now I have another thing to try [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img].

Bill
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Old April 4th, 2004, 17:33   #4
Wingnut
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement

Yeah, do it. The job only takes about 30-40 minutes and the parts are only about $20-$40 (depending on if you need the clamps or not). There is no reason why this procedure shouldn't be done every 50k or so. It is a very common problem that many people just don't realize. I am on my 3rd set of bushings.

EDIT: I couldn't add these pictures to the original thread as it will only hold 10 pictures. So I am adding them here.

I got sick of replacing my bushings all the time, so I went with the poly ones this time. And since the kit came with the end link inserts, I thought I would add more pics of that procedure. So here they are:

First thing is to take off the end link. A 6mm allen & a 16mm (or 5/8") socket:


Then, to remove the old bushings, you need to remove the large bolt and the steel inserts. Using a socket larger than the part you want to push out, but small enough to catch the edge of the endlink, put it in a vice & press them out:



The bolt above, you just need the one socket as the bolt will push itself out. But for the side with the hollow insert, you need a small socket to push it through:



Now, you should be able to pull the rubber bushing out with a pair of pliers. If they are rusted in there, you can cut them out as you don't need them anymore:



Now you have an empty endlink:



Sorry about the switchewroo, but I took the pictures at different times and used a different set of endlinks for the install. But its the same regardles of which ones you use.

Apply the supplied lube to the inside of the end link as well as around the edge of the bushing:



Then, using the vice, press the new bushing into the endlink. This is trickey and you need a little patience. the bushing has to be perfectly square to the hole or it will slip out and go crooked. A tip I can suggest is taking a sharp blade & tapering the edge of one side of the bushing. It will force it into the hole much easier.



Now you have a completed bushing replacement on one of your endlinks. Repeat for the other side.



Unfortunately, I did this upgrade last year (sorry for taking so long to put the pictures up). So I don't remember the sizes for the sockets I used to press out the old bushings. But they should be readilly available in most standard socket sets.

Enjoy & good luck

Last edited by Wingnut; September 2nd, 2006 at 20:11.
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Old April 5th, 2004, 20:24   #5
brenner
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

I just did my 2000 golf on saturday. I had the new style bushings ,but re used the old style clamps, also the old links were plastic as opposed to steel/rubber on the new ones.Took some muscle grease to install the bushings,but the reward was awesome no more rattles &knocks,used longer 8mm bolts also,silicone dielectic grease made the installation easier too. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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Old April 14th, 2004, 20:24   #6
billmn
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

OK guys,

I'm looking at impex and they list the 1J0 411 314g as a "mounting" and it is $5.71, they have 1J0 411 314t that is listed as the bar bushing. is the "T" version the same as the "G"?

Bill
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Old April 14th, 2004, 20:32   #7
twojettas
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

[ QUOTE ]
is the "T" version the same as the "G"?

[/ QUOTE ]

Bill,

Yes, the "T" version is the superceding part to the "G" version. Both of which require the new style mounting bracket as described above. I couldn't tell you what the difference is between the T and G, but I know the T works.
I just replaced mine last week. I am glad I did as the clunking I have had for the past few months is now gone.
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Old April 14th, 2004, 21:06   #8
tadc
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

Beautiful. I'll be doing this job soon.. thanks a million.
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Old April 15th, 2004, 06:49   #9
ofhs93
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

Cool..thanks for that post guys....I would rather keep $100 in my pocket than give it to the local stealership...they want $156 to do this job.
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Old April 15th, 2004, 07:41   #10
sat2825
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

I just had this done on my 2001 and the dealer covered it under warranty... They said that this is apparently a very common problem and they are fixing these free for people.
The new bushings are made with a different material which is more wear resistant and not as soft as the original rubber bushings. [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
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Old April 15th, 2004, 07:49   #11
ofhs93
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

well unfortunatly my 99 is quite a long ways out of warranty. How much mileage do you have on yours?
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Old April 15th, 2004, 08:18   #12
Darren_J
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

That's interesting the dealer covered it. A goodwill warranty or TSB? How many Km? Anyone know if there is a polyurethane replacement for these cars that might last longer or are they too harsh?
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Old June 14th, 2004, 17:13   #13
tadc
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

Did this job this weekend. Once I had the car up in the air and the wheels off, I found out several interesting things:
1) 16mm socket didn't come with my Craftsman set. (d'oh!)
2) end-link nut was finger tight on the passenger side! (suspect this is the fault of the guy who put on the Bilstiens)
3) drivers side tie-rod (at least I think that's what it is, the steering-type-rod) had it's locknut completely loose and nowhere near the "outside" end of the rod, where I assume it should be because that's where it was on the passenger side. Alignment seems okay though.
4) it's really easy to accidentally cross-thread the swaybar bracket bolt if it's not quite "clamped" enough.

Fortunately, my roommate was handy to take me to the hardware store for a new bolt and a tap to fix the bolt hole.

Good news, the clunky-clank sound is gone!
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Old June 15th, 2004, 05:11   #14
stayalert
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

I did this maintenace and the result was terrific. buhybye clunk....I did it without removing the bar ends. I don't know why I didn't I just didn't. Its possible but not reccomended. I gotta believe its easier to drop the ends...Rob M Concord, MA
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Old June 15th, 2004, 12:24   #15
STRANGETDI
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Default Sway bar bushing replacement \'How to\'

ADDED TO FAVORITES. THANKS AGAIN WINGNUT!
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