coolant glow plugs: back with results!

Eric Maurier

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Jan 27, 2001
Location
Angers, Maine et Loire, France
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Skoda Octavia '01, TDI 90
Hi all!
Some may remember my very theoritical thread about the coolant glow plugs and under which conditions they were turned on.
After some experiments, I discovered that the IAT (intake air temp) that triggered the thing was about -10°C on my ECU, provided the coolant temp was under 55°C.
This condition on the IAT was achievable when the IAT sensor G72 was at a resistance of about 10KOhms. So I figured out a way to add 10KOhms to the G72, so that it would always read below -10°C and therefore trigger the coolant glow plugs when the engine is cold. Well, not really "always" but when I want it to. This means a switch in the car.
In order not to forget to put it back to normal when the coolant is warm, I integrated a red light that turns on when you hit up the switch.
Here's the scheme:


And I though to myself, it would be good as well to know when the glow is really working. So I added a flashing LED, triggered on a relay. Which one? The J359, that's to say low heat output. This relay feeds plug #1 (out of 3), the plug that's in the middle . The J360 is the high heat output and it feeds plugs #2 and #3. I found those two relays under the hood thanks to the engine output tests with VAG-COM (heard them click!). J359 was marked 53 and J360 was marked 100. Here's the scheme:

All this material was made to fit in a round photo film box. State of the art for french size reduction in electronics! ;-) Sorry no picture for now, I have no equipment for this
Now, time for test drive!

Cold start, few degrees above freezing, a few seconds to demonstrate how it works and then I cranked the engine. On the top of the graph are 3 binary values: afterglow in brown, low heat output in blue, high heat output in red. If I had put them on the same line, it wouldn't have been understandable.

Afterglow starts right after the engine (be careful, afterglow is about the ENGINE glow plugs).
About ten seconds after the start of the engine, there is no restriction to a start of the coolant glow plugs (all bits turned to 0, not visible on the graph) but the thing starts only a few seconds after that.
There we go!
Low heat output until the end of the afterglow. Then, once the afterglow is finished, it's high heat output that's used. We have some time on hi and then BOTH (that's the three glow plugs) are activated. I didn't find any reason for the change but the 200 seconds between the beginning of hi and the beginning of hi+lo.
Then we go all the way with hi+lo, until the coolant reaches 80°C. It is then stopped. I already hear you: I said the temp was 55°C. Well, that may not be incompatible. Maybe the thing triggers at 55°C but stops at 80°C.
Afterwards, I switched down my mod, which explains the sudden rise in IAT. Well, sudden, not that much: the rise seems to be damped by the ECU.
Special for Velvetfoot: you'll notice I included generator loading. And you were wondering the load given the afterglow. Well, VW engineers must have been concerned as well, since as we've just seen, they prevent hi output while there's an afterglow. So the alternator load didn't go beyond 70%.
For the heating: it triggers NOTHING at all. I tried to put it for a few seconds to max heat, max fan speed, and it didn't change a thing, for each and every stage. So for an optimal engine warm-up and a 038 906 012 H ECU, I advise to leave the heating at cold. Others ECU: please try to see if it differs!
Now, my biggest concern before the ride: the impact of IAT on specified boost. I say before, because just watch those graphs:
1)The overview of a short run on a motorway, at moderated speed (90-130 km/h).

I found 2-3 places where I could switch up the mod and lower the IAT to about -15°C and see the impact on group 11 (boost), at real steady speed at throttle position. Plus the idling at the end.

Now, let's have some kind of zoom. You can refer to the overview graph using the X axis, the time in seconds.
2)

3)

4)


So, as I said, the effect is obvious. First, I must acknowledge that there is indeed as consequence, though I still don't see no real need for it. The consequence is a slight decrease in specified boost, should it be at light (90 km/h), medium (130 km/h) load or idling. So, what more could I ask? No only this mod warms my engine faster, but what's more it protects (a little bit) my turbo by requesting less boost. There's as well enough air to burn the fuel, since my EGR unfortunately doesn't work ;-) Those Skodas aren't reliable cars, that's true... :-D
If I didn't make myself clear enough, this mod will only be used for a coolant temp under 80°C, since I don't need it when above and it could make the engine smoke at full load.
Comments and questions welcome as usual :)
 

Davin

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L.A.
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2001 Golf GLS 5spd blk/blk
Great work, Eric! You hold the title of the Vag-Com master


You briefly mentioned a point that I was going to make about smoke at full load. The IAT effects requested boost, but the ECU tries to control the mass of air in the cylinders. And we know from previous threads that it's the MAP sensor that controls fueling. So when you artificially lower IAT and the ECU requests less boost, there is actually a lower mass of air in the cylinders than the ECU expects, so it will inject more fuel for a given mass of air than it normally would. I wonder if this effects fuel economy at all? If you make a lot of short trips and use this mod most of the time, it might. But if you make lots of long trips and end up using the mod for only the first 3-4 minutes of each trip, it shouldn't effect the economy that much.

-davin
 

Eric Maurier

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Joined
Jan 27, 2001
Location
Angers, Maine et Loire, France
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Skoda Octavia '01, TDI 90
Ouf! At last a reply

This car is basically used for an uninterrupted 100 km trip twice a day, so I don't think fuel economy will change much

The mod is used until the coolant reaches 80°C. At that time, the flashing led shuts down, showing the driver the glow is off and telling him it is pointless to keep the IAT low. He therefore can switch down the mod and the big red light that shows the mod is on shuts down as well. I'm quite happy with this, worked right on the first time!

Note: on sunday, I went to fill the tank. The weather was quite cold and the engine hardly warm (90°C on the coolant, but only about 60-70°C on the oil). The engine was shut down while we were on the queue and it cooled down significantly (the instruments needle showed 70°C, so the actual temp was less, maybe 60-65°C). I turned the mod on on the restart, but guess what, nothing happened (no flashing red light). This means (and confirms) that there are two triggering temps: less than 55°C to start the glow, more than 80°C to end it.
Voila!
 

Anton Largiader

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Nov 21, 2000
Location
Charlottesville, VA
TDI
'98 Jetta
Here is another way of doing it. I haven't done this yet but I'll try to wire it up soon.

Parts:
DPDT relay
Diode
Illuminated momentary pushbutton
2 inline 12V fuses
10k resistor

The functionality is the same as the original post... a 10k resistor is put in line with the IAT sensor loop to artificially depress the temperature, and a light comes on when the mod is active. BUT... it is activated by a latching relay so you never have to turn it off.

A DPDT relay is needed. The resistor is shorted out (inactive) when the relay is off, meaning it has to run through a NC (normally closed) contact. A separate set of normally open (NO) contacts closes to turn on the light when the first contacts open to allow the resistor to work. Momentarily pressing the button will energize the relay (via the +12V wire) which will turn on the coolant plug, and the power from that keeps the relay engaged. When the coolant plug turns itself off (when the coolant temp gets to 80°C) it releases the relay. The diode is needed in the "coolant plug" wire so that the pushbotton doesn't try to energize the coolant plug directly when pressed.

The momentary pushbutton and the lamp can probably be incorporated into one unit from Radio Shack or maybe even a VW part.

Anyone see a problem with this?

[ December 04, 2002, 12:22: Message edited by: Anton Largiader ]
 

weedeater

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Mar 17, 2001
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Reston, VA
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Jetta, 2001, Baltic Green
Your 12v source should be 'Ignition'. G72 should be the Inlet Air Temp.

And I'm luvin it already...
 

Brock_from_WI

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Location
Green Bay, WI USA
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2003 wagon
Let me get this straight. There are some glowplugs that are somewhere inline on the coolant and this mod "tricks" them to think the coolant is cooler then it is? I don't get how they would shut off once your up to temp.

Do you have any idea how much power the glow plugs take while on? I think I read there were 3 of them, do they all come on together, was it 20A each?

I guess another up side to this is the extra load on the alternator will also actually help the engine warm up faster.

Brock
 

weedeater

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Reston, VA
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Jetta, 2001, Baltic Green
this mod tricks the ECU into thinking that the AIR temperature is lower than it is, forcing it to turn on the coolant heaters via the coolant heater relay. The pushbutton (momentary) activates the relay, tricking the ECU, which activates the J359 heater relay, which holds this relay active until the coolant temperature reaches 80C. At that point, the ECU turns off the heater relay, which turns off this mod relay, which puts the true air temperature value back in line with the ECU.
 

Anton Largiader

Active member
Joined
Nov 21, 2000
Location
Charlottesville, VA
TDI
'98 Jetta
Thanks, I made the changes. Also if you really like the mod and it looks robust, you could "bootstrap" the system from the glow plugs or something else.... then just pull the fuse out when the weather turns warm so you get full boost immediately. Keep the indicator light, though, so you see what's happening.

Boy it took a long time to warm up this AM. The first few miles are slow and mostly downhill...
 

jbrumme

Member
Joined
May 31, 2002
Location
Gonzales, TX
Eric and Anton, Great work!!! Thanks for the hard work and efforts put into this and also for testing! Anton, what number relay are you using and what is the color scheme of the diode? Just curious about trying this myself. I live in Texas for a reason! I HATE THE COLD....So, when it does get "COOL" here (25-30F) I would like the car to start right up and keep the coolant heater plugs on....The warmer the better for me. Thanks again for the schematics.
 

Brock_from_WI

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Location
Green Bay, WI USA
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2003 wagon
Ok, getting back to this now that it's getting colder. I am trying to get this all straight before I mess with anything.

First, what would it do if you left the resistor in line all the time? I know the ECU would think it is cold out all the time, but is that bad? I guess what I am getting at is if I simply put a switch in and left it on when my wife had the car would that be a bad thing in any way? She drives about 25 miles each way to and from work. Eventually the GP's get turned off when the coolant is warm enough anyway, correct? Then when my wife left work they would kick in again, no confusion on her part.

Secondly, where exactly is the best place to tap in to add the resistor? I mean physically on the car. Under the hood? Could I put the switch there and leave it on most of the time and turn it off for trips and summer?

I am sure I could wire a self holding relay off the ignition, but then my wife would have to hit a button and wouldn't like that I was messing with the car /images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Brock_from_WI

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Location
Green Bay, WI USA
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2003 wagon
Ok, I had another thought last night and maybe this is what Anton said. Couldn't you use a DPDT relay and have it powered by the low glow plug supply. Then use that relay to add the resistor in line. That way if the low glow plugs ever came on it would then add in the resistor until it hit 80 and then automatically disengage, only to kick in again if it was below –15 (5F) AIT and coolant under 55 (130F)?

I guess the disadvantage of this would be you would get no additional heat above -15C (5F), but below that would be automatic extra heating. Maybe this would be the way to go, then add an additional momentary switch to start the relay, although I suppose that would kick in the low glow plug also so it would have to be pretty heavy. Hummmmm.
 

tadc

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[ QUOTE ]
Brock_from_WI said:
Ok, I had another thought last night and maybe this is what Anton said. Couldn't you use a DPDT relay and have it powered by the low glow plug supply. Then use that relay to add the resistor in line. That way if the low glow plugs ever came on it would then add in the resistor until it hit 80 and then automatically disengage, only to kick in again if it was below –15 (5F) AIT and coolant under 55 (130F)?

[/ QUOTE ]
This is basically what Anton said, except he has it set up so the power from the coolant plug keeps the relay activated until the computer turns off the coolant plugs at 80C. Only problem with that setup is the IAT resistor will be put inline by this setup when the coolant plugs are turned on legitimately by the ECU in extreme cold... but I guess that's not that big a deal, unless the out-of-range resistance trips a code or something.

You do have a good idea though, why not replace the pushbutton switch with a line from the combustion glow plugs? It would effectively push the button for you every time the GPs activated. I assume by low glow plugs you mean the combustion ones... if you're referring to the low coolant heater circuit, all this would accomplish is turning it from low to high when its ordinarily only cold enough for low.

I dont see why VW didn't set it up this way from the factory. What's the downside to faster warmup? Alternator loading/wear? they seem to have taken care of that problem.
 

Brock_from_WI

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Location
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2003 wagon
I was also wondering why VW did have the plugs run more often or for longer. Now I am wondering how long the plugs actually last. Are they rated for say 5 hours total? If it is something like that maybe they don't want to burn them out to fast? It seems like people living in colder climates change them every other year or so? Just a thought, maybe I won't mess with them for that reason, then again they aren’t very expensive if you change them yourself.
 

tadc

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Golf GLS TDI, '01, Black
When you say people in colder climates change them yearly, do you mean the coolant heaters or regular GPs? Assuming they have a similar life to the combustion plugs, I dont see why they dont run more. In my climate I doubt the coolant heaters have been on more than a few minutes total in the life of the car.
 

Brock_from_WI

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Location
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2003 wagon
I guess I was thinking glow plugs rather the coolant plugs. But I would think they would have similar life span? Or maybe not if one was immersed in coolant and the glow pugs were in air or diesel fuel? I suppose how many people would ever even know if a coolant plug failed. I don't think that even throws a code does it?
 

tadc

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Stumptown
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Golf GLS TDI, '01, Black
[ QUOTE ]
Brock_from_WI said:
I guess I was thinking glow plugs rather the coolant plugs. But I would think they would have similar life span? Or maybe not if one was immersed in coolant and the glow pugs were in air or diesel fuel? I suppose how many people would ever even know if a coolant plug failed. I don't think that even throws a code does it?

[/ QUOTE ]I assume it would throw a code. Don't know for sure.

I'd think the coolant plugs would last longer given the lower temps they are exposed to. All else being equal of course.
 

biopete

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Nashville, TN
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A3 Jetta 1998, A4 Jetta 2001
How much does this mod help?

I never saw anwhere where the benefit of this mod is quantified . How much faster does your heater warm up? I'm guessing I missed it as no one else has asked. Can someone please let me know?

Thanks.
 

nicklockard

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Moreover, I'd like to know if this can be done more elegantly by our chip programmers. I'd be willing to replace coolant glow plugs every 30-40K or so...it would be worth it to reduce warmup times and improve emissions. Agree with the guy who said it should be like this from the factory.
 

nicklockard

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SOLD 2010 Touareg Tdi w/factory Tow PCKG
Brock,

Yeah, I'm going to do that glow plug adaptation at next weekend's gtg, but I don't think it does anything for coolant gp. That's how I read it.

In fact, I live in a climate where it gets down to 30's and 40's in the winter (and super wet)...but...I'm not sure my engine glow plugs have EVER come on, and for dang sure my coolant gp's have never come on. It never gets cold enough for the ECU to demand it, which is a damn shame, IMO. I think the VW engineers should have specified much more liberal use of these items! Why bother to include them in the car if you're hardly ever going to use them? The benefit is obvious too: reduced warmup times are good for emissions, good for the engine lifespan, good for fuel economy, and good for getting you warmer faster. I can't for the life of me understand why they are so under utilized.

That's really my only complaint about VW engineering. Otherwise, the car is superb in cold weather and all other weather conditions. All other aspects of engine management seem well thought out and balanced to me, but this one missing utilization of a built-in functionality seems like a glaring oversight.
 

JetPuf

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Portland/Troutdale Oregon
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okay okay, all this talk and noone has done it. I'm pretty good with building small circuits so, I'm gonna make the jump and do it! I'll let everyone know how it goes, and what the prices are. Two things however. First, there needs to be a resistor around the led. if there is not, it'll fry at 12 volts. Seccond, what size diode would one recomend? I'll spend some time studying the diodes at my local parts place, but recomendations would be well... recomended.
 

JetPuf

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Location
Portland/Troutdale Oregon
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White '98 Bug, Gray 2010 GL350
Well, appears that I'm working on this with little interest of you freezing TDI'ers out there, well actually I know nicklockard will be interested. Through some other research I've found the wire I need to tap for the IAT sensor.

I also examined the wiring diagram above and discovered that the relay would un-latch when the plugs went from low to medium because there was no continued source of power for it after the first plug shut off (you can see more what I'm talkign about from Eric's posts above.

I have built one of the circuits. I will try and get it installed tomorrow. So far the cost for the project is about 30 dollars in just parts -- this is to build one. Because you cant buy just one resistor, and just one diode I have extras. If more are made the cost would decrease with it eventually ending up around 15-20 dollars. I may have some interest in making some of these for people after I have had an oppertunity to test it on my vehicle and some of my friends vehicles in the area.
 

Zero10

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Calgary, AB
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05 Golf TDI PD, Tiptronic
Interesting stuff. What all did you buy for $30? I have bags and bags of LED's, along with the appropriate resistors to run each of them at 12V. I bought them in bulk from www.lsdiodes.com back when I was doing a lot of LED lighting. I think I paid ~$0.20/LED, and $0.01/resistor or something like that. Relays should be cheap as well (~$5/each).
Anyhoo, I would like to see what you come up with, and what your results are. Don't think there is no interest ;)
 

nicklockard

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Arizona
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JetPuf said:
Well, appears that I'm working on this with little interest of you freezing TDI'ers out there, well actually I know nicklockard will be interested. Through some other research I've found the wire I need to tap for the IAT sensor.

I also examined the wiring diagram above and discovered that the relay would un-latch when the plugs went from low to medium because there was no continued source of power for it after the first plug shut off (you can see more what I'm talkign about from Eric's posts above.

I have built one of the circuits. I will try and get it installed tomorrow. So far the cost for the project is about 30 dollars in just parts -- this is to build one. Because you cant buy just one resistor, and just one diode I have extras. If more are made the cost would decrease with it eventually ending up around 15-20 dollars. I may have some interest in making some of these for people after I have had an oppertunity to test it on my vehicle and some of my friends vehicles in the area.

Brian,

I am thrilled you're going to do this (even better that you're local and for sure would help out yer buddy Nick ;) )

I'll take one of these off yer hands alright. I just wish (I know there must be) a more elegant (read: vag-com adaptation!!!) way to do this. We'll just have to jury-rig them up until someone finds a more elegant way :)
 

JetPuf

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White '98 Bug, Gray 2010 GL350
Zero10 said:
What all did you buy for $30?
I do know about LSdiodes, I have ordered from them before and if I do start making these in any quantity I will definitly be ordering through them (although I'd like just to do a local pickup... they are based out of the portland area) I used parts from my local radioshack because it was cheap enough for an initial research, and they had all of what I needed. Here's the parts rundown:

1 DPDS Relay 5.29
1pkg 10k ohm resistor .99
1pkg 1.2k ohm resistor(led) .99
1 LED .75
1pkg (20) diode 1.80
1 switch 2.39
1 circuit board 4.29
4 spools of different colored wire 7.98
1pkg molex connector 5.25

I also needed crimp connectors to connect into everything, I had these on hand and did not include them in the final price.

I didnt purchase fuses because I already had the circuit I was going to use fuse protected from the install of my aftermarket gauges. I did not fuse the lines from the glow plugs because they are already fused through the cars 50-amp fuses atop the battery.

I tested the switch this morning... well I went out to the cold car and started it, waited a seccond and pressed my switch for aux. heat. the led came on, and stayed on indicating power to the glow plugs. I have the first vag-com reading without the aux. heat, now I just need to make a run with the heater on and see what difference there is in the engine heat up time. If there is a difference I plan on producing another 3 of these circuits for install in a few select friends cars for further testing--if they are willing to compensate for the price for parts (something like 15-20 dollars) (cough nicklockard--bleached bora--and my other friend who's not on here).
 

nicklockard

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JetPuf said:
I do know about LSdiodes, I have ordered from them before and if I do start making these in any quantity I will definitly be ordering through them (although I'd like just to do a local pickup... they are based out of the portland area) I used parts from my local radioshack because it was cheap enough for an initial research, and they had all of what I needed. Here's the parts rundown:

1 DPDS Relay 5.29
1pkg 10k ohm resistor .99
1pkg 1.2k ohm resistor(led) .99
1 LED .75
1pkg (20) diode 1.80
1 switch 2.39
1 circuit board 4.29
4 spools of different colored wire 7.98
1pkg molex connector 5.25

I also needed crimp connectors to connect into everything, I had these on hand and did not include them in the final price.

I didnt purchase fuses because I already had the circuit I was going to use fuse protected from the install of my aftermarket gauges. I did not fuse the lines from the glow plugs because they are already fused through the cars 50-amp fuses atop the battery.

I tested the switch this morning... well I went out to the cold car and started it, waited a seccond and pressed my switch for aux. heat. the led came on, and stayed on indicating power to the glow plugs. I have the first vag-com reading without the aux. heat, now I just need to make a run with the heater on and see what difference there is in the engine heat up time. If there is a difference I plan on producing another 3 of these circuits for install in a few select friends cars for further testing--if they are willing to compensate for the price for parts (something like 15-20 dollars) (cough nicklockard--bleached bora--and my other friend who's not on here).

**cough* **Okay**

:D

Hey, I've got Monday off (26th)...I want to show you a project idea related to this cold weather stuff which would be a nice addition/complement to this project. Need to get your input and see if it's something you'd like to help with. We could prototype the idea for not much. Lemme know. PM me; don't want to veer off this thread topic here.
 

whitedog

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Bend, Oregon
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JetPuf said:
I do know about LSdiodes, I have ordered from them before and if I do start making these in any quantity I will definitly be ordering through them (although I'd like just to do a local pickup... they are based out of the portland area) I used parts from my local radioshack because it was cheap enough for an initial research, and they had all of what I needed. Here's the parts rundown:

1 DPDS Relay 5.29
1pkg 10k ohm resistor .99
1pkg 1.2k ohm resistor(led) .99
1 LED .75
1pkg (20) diode 1.80
1 switch 2.39
1 circuit board 4.29
4 spools of different colored wire 7.98
1pkg molex connector 5.25

I also needed crimp connectors to connect into everything, I had these on hand and did not include them in the final price.

I didnt purchase fuses because I already had the circuit I was going to use fuse protected from the install of my aftermarket gauges. I did not fuse the lines from the glow plugs because they are already fused through the cars 50-amp fuses atop the battery.

I tested the switch this morning... well I went out to the cold car and started it, waited a seccond and pressed my switch for aux. heat. the led came on, and stayed on indicating power to the glow plugs. I have the first vag-com reading without the aux. heat, now I just need to make a run with the heater on and see what difference there is in the engine heat up time. If there is a difference I plan on producing another 3 of these circuits for install in a few select friends cars for further testing--if they are willing to compensate for the price for parts (something like 15-20 dollars) (cough nicklockard--bleached bora--and my other friend who's not on here).
Cough-coldweatherfriendstoo-cough.
 

JetPuf

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Sep 11, 2003
Location
Portland/Troutdale Oregon
TDI
White '98 Bug, Gray 2010 GL350
whitedog said:
Cough-coldweatherfriendstoo-cough.
well, that's a good idea. now to answer the 64 dollar question, do the PD's have the same setup?? If they do, whitedog may be a good local cold climate tester...;)
 
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