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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 31st, 2007, 17:38   #46
Richy_T
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Well, when I did the tranny swap on my cabriolet, I propped the engine up on a breezeblock and didn't pull the flanges so I'm going to see if I can get away with that again. I also managed to get the transmission down (and up) on a flat piece of wood on top of a floor jack . Overall, I would have preferred a tranny jack but really, it wasn't that awkward without (I have seen also where someone bolted the flat piece of wood to the jack via some drilled holes. Might try that).

One thing I might do this time is pull the driver's side half-axle. That is one nut, gives a bunch of clearance and was the only thing that really caused any aggro refitting the transmission.

if none of the stretch bolts are too critical, I may skip that at this point and retro that this summer when the weather is better. I really need to sort out a Bentley.
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Old January 1st, 2008, 22:23   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hevster1
The easiest way so far I have found is to remove the x-member completely. You gain so much room both on disassembly and reassembly. ...
I second this remark. I had no help and finally gave up after not being able to get the transaxle back up to mate with the engine. Dropped the sub frame after removing the 4 steering rack bolts. There are only 4 large bolts needed to drop the sub frame. Replacing the subframe takes a jack on one side. Line it up and screw in one bolt finger tight. Do one on the other side. Now you can replace the last 2 bolts, and tighten everything together. These large bolts are even much easier to stretch (the last "+ 90 " turn after reaching torque) than the short flywheel bolts were.

I just wish I had dropped the sub frame on disassembly - it would have saved me hours. And you only have to replace the 4 subframe and 4 rack bolts.
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Old January 2nd, 2008, 21:56   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2footbraker
Flywheel bolts are all you really should replace but yes, there are some stretch bolts it wouldn't hurt to replace. When I did mine, I replaced the tranny mount bolts, dogbone mount bolts, the gear selector bolt and the inner CV bolts. If I was to do it again I probably wouldn't even bother replacing them though.
OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then? Could someone tell me what the torque should be on these? (I won't be able to get a manual before the parts arrive). I'm guessing they might be a bit different from a gasser Cabriolet

Also, has anyone come up with a bodgers alternative to that flywheel lock tool? Or is it something you can free-rent from Autozone? (I can always weld something up in a pinch).

Thanks

Rich
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Old January 2nd, 2008, 22:54   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richy_T
OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then?
Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...

On Dual Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 13 NM [edit: CD version says 22... my book version of the Bentley says 13 NM... Newer update to CD also says 13...]
On Single Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 20 NM

Then there are the transmission support bolts (just like the engine support bolts that need to be replaced), and probably some of the transmission-to-engine bolts (but I can't locate that part in my Bentley right now...)

Yuri.

PS: for the flywheel lock... Wingnut improvised something from a large hookeye that went on a bolt and got wedged in the teeth of the flywheel...

Last edited by ymz; February 18th, 2010 at 00:42.
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Old January 3rd, 2008, 07:34   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymz
Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...

On Dual Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 22 NM
On Single Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 20 NM
For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:

On two-part flywheel: 13 Nm
On single piece flywheel: 20 Nm

For a flywheel holding tool I just used a piece of 1/8th thick angle iron about 4 feet long with a single hole for a pressure plate bolt in one end. Bolt it to the flywheel. As the flywheel turns while you are tightening a flywheel bolt one of the pressure plate alignment pins on the flywheel will swing around and jam against the edge of the angle iron, the other end of which is in contact with the floor. No more rotation & your flywheel bolts can be torqued properly. Works in the opposite direction too, so you can loosen the original bolts.
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Last edited by visionlogic; January 3rd, 2008 at 07:36.
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Old January 3rd, 2008, 09:16   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionlogic
For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:
On two-part flywheel: 13 Nm
On single piece flywheel: 20 Nm
So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)

My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...

Interesting...

Yuri.
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Old January 3rd, 2008, 09:42   #52
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I can't wait to start my clutch change now. Thank you
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Old January 3rd, 2008, 10:50   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymz
So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)
My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...
Interesting...
Just downloaded a newer update... now it's back to 13 NM...

Fascinating...

Yuri.
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Old January 4th, 2008, 07:41   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymz
So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)

My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...

Interesting...

Yuri.
They changed the torque value on the engine mount big bolts as well, at some point, too--no more "plus 90 degrees" turn, but with a higher single torque value.

--Nate
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Old January 10th, 2008, 21:26   #55
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Interesting. Since the pressure plate bolts aren't stretch, I'm tempted not to bother replacing them. OTOH, if the manual says to, it's cheap insurance to do it properly. I'll nip along to the stealership tomorrow and see a) if they have them in stock and b) how white my face goes when they tell me the price.

Other than that' I'll just try and get the stretch bolts that hold the transmission in. There's a lot of "always replace" items in there and I'll give good odds that no dealer actually ever replaces them.

Rich

Last edited by Richy_T; January 10th, 2008 at 21:38.
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Old January 11th, 2008, 06:11   #56
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I'd say change them, because they are very small and even a bit of corrosion can chew them fast. Also, it's not worth 4-5 hours of labour (to take the tranny out) to replace some tiny 50 cent screws
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Old January 11th, 2008, 06:21   #57
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Just make sure you have the correct socket for the PP bolts. Mine required a 9 MM 12-point socket, I think.

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Old January 11th, 2008, 07:07   #58
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Same here.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 20:33   #59
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I've used a 7mm or 8mm allen key stuck in one of the engine mounting holes to lock the flywheel on all 15 VW engine swaps.
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Old January 26th, 2008, 12:37   #60
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OK. Everything is out finally. It was a job getting the transmission out. I would recommend removing the inner CV flanges to anyone else doing this. The right one was hard to get past the thin metal plate and the left one prevented the transmission sliding far enough to get past the clutch assembly easy. I lost quite a bit of metal from the bell housing sliding it backwards and forward. I don't think removing the flanges is completely trivial though (it was a pain to get them off on the old Cabriolet transmission) but probably worth it. I'm definitely seriously considering removing them before reinstall.

Unfortunately, I've hit a new snag. I ordered a 220 clutch kit but it looks like the one that's there is a 228 (is that a factory or aftermarket upgrade?) so unless I can scare one up today, it's probably going to be even longer until I'm back on the road

I've decided to just go with replacing the three bolts that hold the transmission mount on. Everything else should stand being reused as far as I can tell. I promise to past back here red-faced if it turns out I'm wrong

Rich

Last edited by Richy_T; January 26th, 2008 at 12:39.
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