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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old June 18th, 2007, 04:39   #31
hevster1
 
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The tools do come with the kit from DG. The 2 I have done I did on a lift. I refuse to hump out a trans on my back anymore.
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Old July 27th, 2007, 08:13   #32
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wow, not looking forward to the clutch at all. also is the rear seal easy to change at that time too or do you have to pull the oil pan and crank?
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Old July 28th, 2007, 11:51   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintontull
wow, not looking forward to the clutch at all. also is the rear seal easy to change at that time too or do you have to pull the oil pan and crank?
You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.

If you need a rear seal, send me a PM - I bought one for just in case when I replaced my clutch, but ended up not needing it.

--Andy
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Old August 10th, 2007, 01:48   #34
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Ok, just did a clutch on a 99.5 golf and ran into a tool that was not listed. Needed the 6 mm triple square to get the pressure plate off and thats the bolts that were holding it on. I spent a good portion of the day looking for one as you know when you need it, nobody has one around. I don't know if this is a LUK clutch thing, but just thought that I would pass along the info in case somebody else ran into the same thing.

Benjamin
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Old September 14th, 2007, 11:57   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemboy
You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.

If you need a rear seal, send me a PM - I bought one for just in case when I replaced my clutch, but ended up not needing it.

--Andy
You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).

You don't need to take the half shaft out...but with the driver side one out...it is a breaze to get the tranny back up. Well worth the spilled oil and the 3 minutes to take it out.
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Old September 14th, 2007, 20:33   #36
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i didnt have the 17mm allen wrench to get the filler plug out so took some vice grips and one of the old engine mount bolts turned it around and it fit perfectly. yep had to take the drivers side half mount out. I was so determined to get it back in without out taking it out but after an hour i should have just done it. To everyone doing this. Take it off after you are able to drop out the trans. its so much much much much easier going in and safter than destroying a clutch too
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Old September 16th, 2007, 07:05   #37
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The half mount? Is that the drive axle flange that is held into the transaxle by the single 6 MM allen head bolt? I was confused about whether or not to remove these, so I removed the passenger side one because it looked like it may get hung up on the flywheel when removing the transaxle. I was afraid if I removed them, their seals may leak later.

I had no problems getting the transmission out or in with the passenger side one attached (in). If I ever have to remove the transaxle again, I think I'll try without removing either of them.

--Nate
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Old September 16th, 2007, 07:52   #38
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The easiest way so far I have found is to remove the x-member completely. You gain so much room both on disassembly and reassembly. You do have to replace the control arm to ball joint, steering rack and x-member bolts and realign the car so I recommend if you decide to do it this way replace the ball joints and any other bushing or joint which is questionable this way killing 2 birds with one stone.
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Old September 16th, 2007, 11:00   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc_Oc
You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).

You don't need to take the half shaft out...but with the driver side one out...it is a breaze to get the tranny back up. Well worth the spilled oil and the 3 minutes to take it out.
Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.

--Andy
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Old September 16th, 2007, 23:36   #40
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Um, to get the plug out if in a bind, the wheel bolts have a 17 mm head, put the bolt in the plug, also use a 17 mm open end wrench and just make sure you have a skinny wrench and most of the bolt in the plug. You can strip the plug if not carefull so don't say I didn't warn you. I have used this before, never had a problem yet.
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Old September 17th, 2007, 09:00   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemboy
Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.

--Andy
I look at the service manuals like I look at the speed limits. SUGESTIONS, just sugestions.
I did 3 seals without removing the oil pan and 2 years/100k later they are still sealing.

I can see why they say that and I agree with you that it is the best way of installing it. But the rubber in the mating face is pretty forgiving.
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Old October 9th, 2007, 06:13   #42
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Welp clutch changed and the clutch was weird at first but after 800-1000 miles its back to normal and has seated it self well. NO SLIP what so ever.
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Old December 30th, 2007, 14:27   #43
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In preparing for a clutch swap, do any of the other fixtures and fittings need to be replaced? I think I heard something about the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield bolts and need to be replaced?

Thanks

Rich
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Old December 30th, 2007, 18:07   #44
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i held my engine up with a custom cut 4x4 and a winch strap 0 dollars
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Old December 30th, 2007, 19:49   #45
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Flywheel bolts are all you really should replace but yes, there are some stretch bolts it wouldn't hurt to replace. When I did mine, I replaced the tranny mount bolts, dogbone mount bolts, the gear selector bolt and the inner CV bolts. If I was to do it again I probably wouldn't even bother replacing them though.
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