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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old April 17th, 2004, 15:10   #16
runonbeer
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Default Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

So, Have any of you innovative individuals come up with a substitute for this fancy pants clutch alignment tool?
I tried to use an input shaft off of old bus tranny but no go.
Sheeesh...

...And a torque spec for RE-using the pressure plate bolts?...
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Old April 17th, 2004, 17:24   #17
VelvetFoot
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Default Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

I haven't tried them but they're supposed to be reasonable: http://clutchtools.com/ (I love the url)

Per Bentley:

On two - part flywheel:
13 Nm (10 ft lb)
Loosen and tighten gradually and diagonally

On single piece flywheel:
20 Nm (15 ft lb)
Loosen and tighten gradually and diagonally
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Old April 17th, 2004, 21:26   #18
runonbeer
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Default Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

Well, thanks. I guess I'd better get the new bolts...now that I'm gonna have to take 'em back out again....and the FW bolts....(I forgot to install the big aluminum thing that mates with the bell housing, DUH!)
but that belongs in another thread: The aborted engine install--Hey dude, you know what we forgot.....
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Old April 19th, 2004, 19:41   #19
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Default Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

Ok, I'm going to be changing my clutch next weekend, and since my motor has 110k on it, I've decided to do the rear main seal. Any tips on that?

Also, In trying to determine what part to order, VWparts lists this one for the tdi. Its $50.08 http://worldimpex.com/search_by_part...=6872&x=23&y=9

ECS Tuning lists the rear main seal here: Look at bottom item
ECS is selling it for $64.95.

Also check with 1stvwparts.com

Last edited by oldpoopie; December 12th, 2006 at 08:29.
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Old January 27th, 2007, 15:53   #20
Diezl0N
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Exclamation No TDC Mark after G60 Flywheel Change. Timing Belt Change Question?!

Hi, I'm having an anxiety attack here, any TDI experts able to help (Particularly in the Norfolk, VA Area)?

I'm doing a timing belt change on a manual tranny Mk IV TDI (Jetta '01.5) that had a G60 flywheel from DieselGeek installed last year using the above directions. It worked great, but...I did not think to transfer a TDC mark to the flywheel when installing and am now really wondering if I can continue my belt change. I have accomplished the following steps:

I am up to step 15.1 of the A4 Timing Belt change procedure which means:

1. My Metalnerd 3418 Cam Locking Plate is in place.
2. The #1 Cylinder "lobes" are up and the rest of the lobes appear to match the picture in the A4 Timing Belt change "how to"
3. I have verified that the MN3359 pump pin can be inserted into the alignment hole. NOTE: I used a mirror to ensure that there was an actual hole for the pin to insert into and am pretty sure the pump is correct.

Additional Info:

I put a permanent marker spot on the flywheel under the "tooth" reference point when I installed the cam lock. I did this because my flywheel has a light coating of rust and I couldn't see any timing marks even after I rotated the engine through about 3 revolutions, I could never see anything that looked like an actual mark. I reviewed my Bentley manual and searched the forums, nothing like what I've seen in the manual or the various photos ever showed through that tiny inspection window

My theory is that with the cam locking plate and pump pin in place I have locked 2 out of 3 of the critical references. The question is how accurate was that pen mark I put on the flywheel? Does the factory reference account for stretching in the timing belt and keeps the timing in tolerance over the life of the belt (I think this is what the tensioner should do) or would marking the flywheel with the cam locked correctly and the other references recover for not having (or being able to recognize) the flywheel markings?

So, for the question. Have I missed something? Do I really have to pull the transmission and find/mark a TDC? I don't want to do that (I know from doing it once during the clutch change that I won't finish this weeked and I'd hoped to not have to open that side up again).

The reason I'm concerned is between putting the mark on the flywheel and getting ready to loosen the tensioner for the timing belt (I haven't yet) the flywheel mark moved about 2-3 teeth on the starter. I've rotated my permanent ink mark on the flywheel back under the notch (only took flexing the 3036 Cam holding bar) and now I'm afraid to pull the timing belt. How sensitive is this? Some of the posts I've read talk about 1 tooth making a difference.
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Old January 27th, 2007, 17:15   #21
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The G60 has a TDC mark.

Only the lightweight flywheels come without them.

DB
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Old January 27th, 2007, 17:52   #22
Diezl0N
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Default Thanks but still need help

Yes, I the G60 does have a TDC mark on the flywheel. The point I apparently didn't make is that I can't see it through the inspection window, which means even though it may be there I can't use it. When I said I should have transferred the TDC mark I should have said, "made sure it would show through the window."
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Old June 12th, 2007, 07:22   #23
Max_Girth
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Default Clutch change in the driveway...

I used this PDF to pop a clutch in my 2000 Jetta TDI this weekend, and I appreciate it a great deal.
I just have one question...
Did I really have to pull the half-shafts?
I pulled them, but I apparently wrecked the r side seal going back together. I'm spewing gear oil now.
The left side popped in easily, but the right fought me for an hour. I presume I tore up the seal.
So, I'll have to get back in there tonight with a couple o' seals handy.

As I pulled the shafts, I fought with why...
It looked like they could stay. Did I miss something?

Also, anybody who wants to do this in their driveway, if your over 40, think twice.

I was blown away to find that I didn't own the big triplesquare for the flywheel-to-crank bolts.
I just knew I had one. I was wrong, and my car was torn all apart in the driveway...
Not good.

Necessity being a powerful motivator, I began to wrestle with what I'd do about it in a small town, on Sunday.
I decided to see if a big TORX would have a prayer...
Surprise! A T55 torx, is an absolute perfect fit!
Just so you all know...

At any rate, do the half-shafts actually have to come out next time? Is it just too tight a fit with them in?

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks again for taking a moment.

MaxG
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Old June 12th, 2007, 09:51   #24
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When I assisted Nigel in his clutch change, we left the half-shafts (actually, flange shafts) in place... this isn't a pleasant procedure, as you found out...

We didn't use or need a clutch disk centering tool, but perhaps we were lucky... (actually, Luk-y, as we installing a Luk DMF...)

Yuri.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:17   #25
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You do not need to remove the flange from the tranny. A bit more difficult to guide in and out, but...

As a centering tool, I used a deep wrench socket with tight fit in the clutch disk.

And Max, I'm 46 and change my busted DMF for G60/VR6 combo in my driveway this weekend, and it still hurts everywhere after 3 days.........
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:37   #26
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Ah, the memories.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 18:16   #27
ymz
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Was that H-F transmission jack useful??? (In other words, was it worth whatever it cost ???)

Yuri.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 21:47   #28
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Yes, I think it was.
Otherwise I would've had to make or buy something to fit on the end of a floor jack. It was pretty stable with that strap across and went up pretty high. Still no picnic getting it back in though.
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Old June 13th, 2007, 09:16   #29
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"And Max, I'm 46 and change my busted DMF for G60/VR6 combo in my driveway this weekend, and it still hurts everywhere after 3 days........."

Yea, me too. (born Nov. 1960). I did the lower intake manifold gaskets on the wife's Buick a couple months ago (a 10 hour shop job) one weekend. I was sore for a few days as well! I'm not looking forward to an A4 clutch change, although I would do it, since I've always done ALL of my automotive work. I can't imagine what it would be like in 10 years from now

--Nate
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Old June 17th, 2007, 17:03   #30
shmcquilkin
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Default Dieselgeek's clutch tools

Another option for specifc tools is Jim's clutch tool kit as included in his clutch kits. Just used both and they worked as advertised... whew.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/images/clutchtools.JPG

(not affiliated in any way, just a happy customer)

Take care.
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