HOW TO's

[Beowulf]

I took the posts from the thread Audi5000TDI mentioned and turned into an ugly little bulleted numbered list of steps w/ pictures.

Replacing Top and Middle Seal on the VE/Rotary Fuel Injection Pumps - http://anglo-hexon.net:88/tdi/ip_seals

dieselgeek's how to for changing the seal between the pump body and cast iron distributor head - http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_Inject...eplacement.htm

[brucep]

Originally Posted by aham_uk

A4 Ventectomy with write up and Gwillies photos
Coolant temperature sensor replacement - a fix for faulty temperature display readings

The above link to the Coolant temperature sensor replacement has changed, it is now ==> http://www.inmud.co.uk/page27.htm

Here is another link for coolant temp sensor replacement:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...ture+sensor%27

[MaryP]

This is a picture of my passenger side headlight bulb. There is a plastic retaining ring, rather than the spring clips noted in the Bentley for ealier models. It is removed by turning just a 1/4 turn.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.ph...ze=big&cat=516

[paramedick]

Guys, I know this is not a how-to. Just stashing it here so it is easy to find.

Silicone hose sizes/lengths for the A3/A4/B4 cars. Viton tubing for the fuel return lines.


mcmaster .com

Ft. 5041K22 Metric Silicone Rubber Tubing Firm, 3 mm Id, 8 mm Od, 2.5 mm Wall, Red (Same as 5041K52)

Ft. 5041K522 Metric Silicone Rubber Tubing Firm, 3 mm Id, 8 mm Od, 2.5 mm Wall, Blue (Same as 5041K52)

Ft. 5041K521 Metric Silicone Rubber Tubing Firm, 3 mm Id, 8 mm Od, 2.5 mm Wall, Black (Same as 5041K52)

Ft. 5054K531 Metric Silicone Rubber Tubing Soft, 4 mm Id, 8 mm Od, 2 mm Wall, Black (Same as 5054K53)

Ft. 5119K41 High Temperature Viton Rubber Tubing Firm, 1/8" Id, 1/4" Od, 1/16" Wall, Black

A3 Jetta: 3 foot of blue/red. 12 foot black 3mm. 5 foot black 4mm
B4 Passat: 6 foot red/blue. 15 foot black 3mm. 5 foot black 4mm
A4 B/G/J: 10 foot of black 3 mm. 5 foot black 4mm.

With all these numbers, you will have some left over. Not a bad thing to have a little vacuum tube around.

Viton hose: 3 foot is more than you need. You will have some left over after replacing the interinjector lines and return line to the injection pump.

[scurvy]

Simple cold weather tip: How to block off your grill with foam pipe insulation.

[doc_m]

Here is a PDF for the LCA replacement

[vwjettadsl]

How to change out your crank seal on your A4 by MOgolf:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=66145

[paramedick]

Ventectomy for the A3/B4

1) Remove the cap on the filler neck, and put a rag in the filler neck.
2) There is a metal ring in the edge of the rubber boot around the filler neck. Remove this.
3) Pull up on the rubber boot to remove from around the filler neck. Now you know why there is a rag stuffed in your filler neck. Massive quantities of caked mud/dirt. Clean out what you can by hand. There is a rubber hose connected to the boot that drains spilled fuel. Disconnect it from the appropriate place. You'll see what I mean. While you have the boot out, clean the drain tube. Chances are that it's partially plugged with gunk.
4) Put the filler cap back on. Use a hose to clean out what you can of the dirt. This will take a bit of time.
5) When clean, remove the filler cap.
6) Reach rearward of the filler neck. About 2-3 inches back, you will feel a knurled knob. Unscrew this, and remove it.
7) Take an object, and push against the vent button inside the filler neck. I have found that the rubber covered handles of a pair of large pliers work perfectly.
8) You will notice that there is an object emerging from the area where you removed the knurled knob. Grasp it, pull it rearward, and remove from car.
9) You will see the vent button, a spring, and a plastic retainer ring inside of the housing that was removed. Remove the plastic retainer ring, the spring, and the vent button.
10) Put the spring back in the assembly, and replace the plastic retainer ring. Why? No particular reason. I just leave them in place as they cause no future problem. Put the vent button wherever you prefer (garbage, trunk, shelf, etc.).
11) Slide the assembly back in place. Note the shape, and match it to the orifice shape before you push it back in place.
12) Screw on the knurled knob
13) Replace the rubber surround for the filler neck after you have cleaned it of mud/dirt. Don't forget to hook up the hose.
14) Replace the metal retaining ring in the rubber boot
15) Replace the fuel cap. You're done
15) Go the your favorite fueling place. Place the nozzle on low or medium setting. When it kicks off, slowly top off the tank. You will be amazed at the additional fuel that will go in there.

Note: A3 Jetta is the same, except that there is a tab in a slot on the underside of the housing for the vent assembly. No knurled knob. Press the tab upward with the screwdriver, and follow all the other directions.

[paramedick]

http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/fuelfilter.html

[shmcquilkin]

Haven't located this within the thread, so here's a basic run down from multiple posts I've gleaned recently.

Theory (per Turbo Steve):
Compression is the Foundation of a TDI Engine

Just as in any other engine, a compression test can be used to find out how the rings, valves, and head gasket are holding up. The readings are taken at the injection nozzle holes or glow plug holes, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations. Remove all the nozzles or glow plugs before cranking so that the engine can spin as fast as possible, and disconnect the fuel shut-off solenoid wire to stop flow to the nozzles. Of course, the gauge must be capable of withstanding much higher pressures than those of gasoline powerplants.

Typical specifications are 400 to 500 psi, and if a specimen isn't up to these readings, it may be difficult or impossible to start (after all, compression is what ignites the fuel in a diesel). If one cylinder is 75 psi or more lower than its neighbors, it'll be apt to misfire, causing roughness and a loss of power and efficiency.

Once you've zeroed in on a "weak cylinder," squirt a small quantity of engine oil into the combustion chamber and do the test again. If your reading goes up dramatically, the rings are probably at fault. If the rise is small, bad valves are probably indicated.

Another distinctly possible failure is a blown head gasket, since a diesel's high compression (pressures) put terrific demands on whatever seals the joint between the block and head. A good indication that this seal has failed are very low readings on two adjacent cylinders. By the way, don't forget to check the condition of the timing belt!

Compression testing tells you the condition of an engine's foundation, and should be done when you suspect internal parts of causing a problem. But there's a lot more to diesel diagnosis, and I'll break it down into the proper procedures for specific complaints.

Procedure (per Drivbiwire):
TDI uses the *glow plug holes* to test compression.

-Get engine to operating temp
-DISCONECT THE HARNESS GOING TO THE INJECTION PUMP AND THE FUEL SHUT-OFF SELENOID failure to do this WILL cause the pressure gage to explode!!!!!! (note: you will need to clear the codes when your done)
-remove all four glow plugs
-Hook up a battery charger to keep a uniform charge between cylinders
-Crank until the compression gage stops climbing

Tools:
S&G Tol Aid diesel compression tester kit 34900, includes VW adapter 34740
http://www.toolaid.com/products.htm

Fair prices:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sgt34900.html
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...QL0FX7BLDJ4NU7

Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93644

Uber pricing (Snap-on):
MT33c compression gage (800 psi max) approx. $189
EEPV315A TDI Glow Plug adapter approx. $70



Hope that this helps, and thanks Wingnut!

[alena]

Very frustrating process, for small hands mostly:

VWBloggin.com has some posts -- and they will post a picture-based "How To" at some point in the future. The page starts off on replacing tail lights, then moves onto headlights. Very friendly folks here.

For now, try:


http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/03/...#comment-32016

http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/03/...#comment-37231

[alena]

RE: Replacing Head and Tail lights:

Very frustrating process, for small hands mostly:

VWBloggin.com has some posts -- and they will post a picture-based "How To" at some point in the future. The page starts off on replacing tail lights, then moves onto headlights. Very friendly folks here.

For now, try:


http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/03/...#comment-32016

http://www.volksbloggin.com/2006/03/...#comment-37231

Originally Posted by compu_85

Penclnck's 4130 Products 'Step By Step' Many great tips!

Maintenance Related things:

OldPoopie's Timing Belt Checklist

Car suddenly won't start? Check your Anti Shudder Valve!

Replaceing the headlight bulbs on a Jetta (bt EECSentric) (Link is now dead anyone have a better one? )

Snow Screen Cleaning (lowfi version)

Clutch Change HOW TO. With PDF! By DBW.

Serpentine belt change.


Electrical Related things:

Turn off your airbags selectively with VAG-COM

Benlty's List of DTC Fault codes

Can't get your automatic out of park? Brake switch workaround!

How to bleed the ABS pump after the brake fluid runs dry. By Birdman

List of fuses in the A4

Immoblizer acting up, but you have the SKC? Input it in the odometer! by MOGolf


Modification related things:

Connecting the rear fog and 5 light mod (on the A4 Jetta Sedan)

Just the 5 brake light mod PDF Version

5 Light mod on the Jetta Waggon (By EECSentric)

David_594's List of OEM+ mods.


-Jason

[alphaseinor]

I think I have a decent howto on changing an automatic to a manual transmission... plenty of photos, and three other people have swapped based on this howto...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516

[Slave2school]

01m Tranny cooler stolen from vortex

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3299534

[paramedick]

Passat ECU
1)lift off the rubber hood sealer strip about halfway. Move the temp sensor out of the way by lifting up on it,
2)rotate the three quarter turn clips that secures the plastic tray at the base of the windshield. Make sure they pull away from the square holes they lock into. Lift off that tray.
3)Remove cabin filter and set out of the way.
4)Remove the two sliding clips that secure the cabin filter base to the car. Lift the base up and remove. Careful, the base gasket may want to stick. Gently loosen it from the body.
5)Remove 10mm nut that secures the ECU frame to the body. Clean the stud/area well, as it's a grounding point for the ECU.
6)Remove vacuum tubing from ECU nipple and move out of the way
7)If you feel by the ECU nipple, you will note that the harness connector has "T" piece on the end of it. Push the T connector toward the nipple. It may take some effort. When it moves toward the end of it's travel, the harness will pull away from the ECU. Move the harness/connector out of the way.
8)Lift the end of the ECU frame away from the mounting stud. Wiggle the ECU/frame until the backside pulls away from the two T studs in the back.
9) Pull ECU toward the cabin filter area, and wiggle it out of the car.
10)On the end of the ECU that has the 4 small torx screws, remove the two phillips screws that secures the ECU to the mounting plate.
11)remove the 4 torx screws that secures the ECU tray to the ECU outer case.
12)Wiggle the ECU tray until it slides out from the ECU outer case. You may have to rap the tray portion a few times with a screwdriver handle to loosen any corrosion that may have formed.
13) Slide back the two tiny little spring clamps with a pair of needle nose pliers.
14)Take a sharp knife and slice the hose lengthwise off the black plastic nipple (MAP sensor). Careful, the nipple is pretty fragile to rough handling. Peel the hose off by splitting the hose. You can pull the hose off the metal nipple to the outside of the case.
15)Replace that piece of hose with a piece of 1/8th inch vacuum tubing. Silicone is best, but rubber works. No need to replace the spring clamps if they won't fit over the hose.

Assembly is reverse of removal. When you put the connector back on the ECU, make sure that the T is fully closed to secure the connector.

Replace the hose from the upper intercooler pipe to the ECU at the same time. It's probably toast anyway.