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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 21st, 2018, 21:50   #16
ToddA1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post

If Iím seeing that bearing number correctly, thatís a 17mm ID and the bolt will need something to thread into.

Itís all metal? The description stated glass filled polymers.

-Todd
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 05:21   #17
Mongler98
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not sure what the heck a glass filled polymer is or what it has to do with a steel bearing and pulley.
ITS ALL METAL
now im looking back at my order history and a week later i ordered this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think that i ordered this one as it didn't need a washer or something, i cant remember why i ordered it but its the one that's on the car, i just checked. Maybe the first one has a wrong picture, i cant quite remember, it was ordered back in 2012! i don't remember that far back for details that small lol
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 07:16   #18
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It's what the description of the part YOU linked says it's made of.
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 09:06   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
If Iím seeing that bearing number correctly, thatís a 17mm ID and the bolt will need something to thread into.

Itís all metal? The description stated glass filled polymers.

-Todd
This one is no better than anything else considered before, you still have to obtain the threaded insert so you can mount it.

Personally I don't like the OE plastic pulley and should I have one fail on me I'd be upset, but TBH aren't we really dealing with a solution in search of a problem here? How many of these are failing? I've never had one fail...period.

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Old February 23rd, 2018, 11:54   #20
Mongler98
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I did, plastic was warped, bearing was fine, infect it was in great shape but the pulley looked like an egg with about 5mm proud on one side and -5mm 90* to that.
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 14:52   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post

Even this one has an unthreaded inner bore. Youíll definitely need something inserted, to thread into.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Addy View Post
Personally I don't like the OE plastic pulley and should I have one fail on me I'd be upset, but TBH aren't we really dealing with a solution in search of a problem here? How many of these are failing? I've never had one fail...period.

I totally rationalize with you, as Iíve also never had one fail. While I have a cheap Uro as a spare, Iíd rather be a bit proactive and change it now, before Iím changing it on the side of the road.

It would be nice to have one with a sealed and serviceable bearing, too.

Arenít we all in search of a solution, to a nonexistent problem, here...? I recall someone driving hundereds of miles for a louvered fender well, lol.

-Todd
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 16:19   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Even this one has an unthreaded inner bore. Youíll definitely need something inserted, to thread into.





I totally rationalize with you, as Iíve also never had one fail. While I have a cheap Uro as a spare, Iíd rather be a bit proactive and change it now, before Iím changing it on the side of the road.

It would be nice to have one with a sealed and serviceable bearing, too.

Arenít we all in search of a solution, to a nonexistent problem, here...? I recall someone driving hundereds of miles for a louvered fender well, lol.

-Todd
True, I will agree that it was a long way to go, but it was for a rare part that was actually for protection. The inner fender liner doesn't hang as low on the B3 as it does for the B4 and the lower part of the cooler was exposed to what ever the wheel would toss that direction.

I could have gotten by without it but since the coolers aren't readily available anymore I thought it worth the effort to at least see if I couldn't keep it from getting damaged.

As for the tensioner roller I would welcome a replacement that was direct fit and more substantial but so far the only ones that have been posted up have the 17mm ID and most of the rollers out there are the type with the 15mm insert. I've looked for a while but so far still haven't found anything. If I needed to I might opt for the billet pulley from GrŁven parts but that's a hundred dollar bill for something you really don't get to see.

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Old February 23rd, 2018, 19:25   #23
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Replaced the belt tensioner pulley and all is well again! Appreciate the help guys.

Probably wouldn’t hurt to keep a spare pulley and spring pack on hand.
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Old February 24th, 2018, 04:37   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post

Arenít we all in search of a solution, to a nonexistent problem, here...?
-Todd
The problem is not that replacements arenít available, itís that they suck. The Ford roller can have just the bearing swapped out, not so with the VW pulleys
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Old February 24th, 2018, 15:39   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacus View Post
The problem is not that replacements arenít available, itís that they suck. The Ford roller can have just the bearing swapped out, not so with the VW pulleys
Iím 100% awareness that, itís why I wrote:


Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Iíd rather be a bit proactive and change it now, before Iím changing it on the side of the road.

It would be nice to have one with a sealed and serviceable bearing, too.

Iím still curious the failure rate on the aftermarket pulley. Anyone have any logged mileage, prior to failure?

My OE pulley is still good. Does it require destroying it, to get the 17mm center piece out, or will it press out?

-Todd
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Old February 24th, 2018, 16:03   #26
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The center will just press out.

I’ve had one fail on me at around 80k and seen 2 others fail under 100k. It was new but had the smaller bearings and not the larger one. If they’re all that’s available I recommend changing them with the timing belt. I have changed the ones with the 17mm center due to them feeling dry but have never had one actually fail.

Steve, I may have a spare I can drop in the mail. I’ll have to check my stash.
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Old February 24th, 2018, 17:25   #27
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Hmmmmm..... I’m curious what the 17mm one will log. Makes me want to look at one and see if it can be relubed.

At around $5 each, for the Uro, you’ll log 200k before you reach the cost of the Mustang part.

-Todd
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Old February 24th, 2018, 17:40   #28
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I tried.

I gently removed the seals from each side (it’s a double bearing and the 2RS seal pops right off) and added some grease but it didn’t help. By this time they weren’t dead but did feel dry, so maybe they were past recovering.
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Old February 24th, 2018, 17:46   #29
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Lol, figures you tried.

Not trolling, but I’m curious how long the Mustang bearing will last, before needing replacement. I figure gassers don’t last that long and the pulley seems to be readily available.... is this a problematic part?

-Todd
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Old February 24th, 2018, 20:16   #30
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Quote:
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At around $5 each, for the Uro, youíll log 200k before you reach the cost of the Mustang part.
The cost advantage may be realized much sooner than that.

When my pulley failed, it killed the belt too. Since it happened in the middle of the desert, with no stores nearby stocking replacement parts, I had to buy a new (charged) battery to get me home. (Two batteries, actually. One was enough, so I returned the 2nd at my home store.)
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