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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 12th, 2018, 05:22   #46
Twitch
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What are the average mile to tank these cars should get for a full tank when i filled up it only went to 7/8th but topped it off plan on doing the vent mod today after work. im just passed a half tank and at 290 miles for the tank does this seem low about the first 100 miles was with a bad t stat so never reached operating temp so sure that hurt mpg. If my sending unit is bad would like to know to fill up before i run out of fuel. Also does the driver seat have problems getting stuck its raised all the way up and wont go back down has anyone experienced this thank you for all the help in advance
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Old February 12th, 2018, 08:38   #47
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If you're going to do the ventectomy then just do it and then see how things show. You'll find, however, without any adjustments (I didn't bother), that the fuel indicator won't move until you hit over 100 mile (or so): in essence the amount of extra fuel that you're getting in over a standard, non-vented fill. But, there are ways of adjusting the calibration: hold off for now.

I show about 400 miles when I hit the half-way mark. I think I've gotten 500 miles: three cars, all three have registered a true 800+ miles on a tank.

About the seat, are you saying that it won't go down when pumping the lever down? Might have to do with this: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=392305
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Old February 12th, 2018, 12:59   #48
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Thank you for posting the write up im on the toss up of either switching out the driver seat compared to the passenger seat the foam has splits in it on the side bolster so dont know if its worth putting the time into it compared to a seat that just sits lower and thank you i will most likely be filling up tomorrow or tonight and will hand calculate my mpg and see where the car is and hopefully all is well. Thank you for all the help
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Old February 13th, 2018, 06:41   #49
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Do these cars have a problem with the steering wheel coming lose finally got around to removing the air bag and torquing the steering wheel. the t55 bolt holding the steering wheel was not even seated against the wheel. I torqued it to 35 ft lbs and hopefully that doesnt come lose again. Did the vent mod and filled up the fuel gauge is reading full so hopefully that rules out needing a sending unit after this tank i will see what i get mpg.
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Old February 13th, 2018, 08:04   #50
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Sounds like someone might have been messing with that steering wheel before. From the factory they have thread-locker on them, so highly unlikely that one that's been untouched would come loose.

I'd take this a a sign to look everything over very closely, especially as you go to do any work. Assume that things weren't done right. This is one of those things that buying a "good deal" often get you. I've got ONE car that was impeccably maintained, that I KNOW there wasn't any crappy work done on it. Have another car that was pretty well maintained (thought they weren't very sharp with VW MKIVs): this is my DD (but now it's great). Wife's car has monkeys working on it: battled lots of crap work. Daughter's wagon had an utter idiot work on it: it's almost to the point where I'm not constantly looking over my shoulder.

BTW - Please look to nix using run-on sentences: break up sentences and or add more commas Very hard to read.
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Old February 16th, 2018, 07:50   #51
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Sorry about the run on sentences. Usually reply using my phone while i have down time at work lol So far the car has been good i do get a weird shimmy from like 55-60 but as soon as i pass 61-62mph it goes away. I might consider while i have the car down for the timing belt most likely next month i am considering ordering moogs front end kit with control arms all the tie rod ends ans ball joint for 300 bucks and peace of mind its worth it, better then rebuilding a 1 ton truck front end at 2k+. I live in new jersey and use the nj parkway and turnpike for work when i get stuck behind someone going slow 50-55 its scary to move over to the next lane while traffic is 85-90 in the morning are there any cost effictive ways were i can down shift to 4th and have enough power to speed quickly to 75-80. I read nozzles and a tune are pretty cheap and can give good results. What are other things low cost to consider. Thanks for all the help in advance
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Old February 16th, 2018, 10:19   #52
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Try swapping tires/wheels front-to-back and see if the shimmy is still there.

Can't comment on the Moog parts. I only get my suspension parts from VW (online- IstVWParts.com) or from one of this site's supporting vendors (most suspension parts I get come from them).

Nozzles and a tune can certainly help. However, in order to get some really good pop you'll need to install a stronger clutch. Figure costs to be somewhere in the $1,500 range. My cars will pull really hard to 80mph from 50mph or so, in 5th: one car has a 6spd, in which case I can continue to ramp up strong through about 100mph. Essential is that you get the car operating to full spec before making performance mods. This includes BRAKES and SUSPENSION: these are safety issues.
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Old February 17th, 2018, 08:49   #53
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The car is soon to be due for a timing belt so plan on doing a bunch of maintence when the car is down, to make sure its running 110%. i plan on doing timing belt front control arms all tie rods and ball joints then plan on doing stainless steel lines all fresh brake fluid and new pads and rotors all the way around. So i know the car is 100% solid and gone through
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Old February 17th, 2018, 09:03   #54
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Yesterday was trying to install new rear door speakers due to them not working thinking it was a blown bad speaker. I installed the new speaker and test hooked it up and still no sound was coming from. I took out the volt meter and it is showing 6 volts coming from the wires. I tried wigglying the wires on the back of the amp mounted on the top of the trunk and still nothing. I started to push on the knobs for balance and fad and started to get some volume from the speakers. Can the monsoon headunit be bad and giving a poor signal? Thanks for help in advance

Last edited by Twitch; February 17th, 2018 at 10:30.
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Old February 17th, 2018, 18:34   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twitch View Post
I started to push on the knobs for balance and fad and started to get some volume from the speakers. Can the monsoon headunit be bad and giving a poor signal? Thanks for help in advance
If messing with the knobs on the radio started your getting sound I would think the controls are dirty inside.
Not sure how easy it would be to get inside the radio to try contact cleaner.
You need 4 'keys' to get the unit out.
I recall there being a diagram of how to make the keys somewhere out there.
It's just small wedges.
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Old February 21st, 2018, 05:21   #56
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I had the car on the lift over the weekend. I chopped off the muffler and put 2.25” exhaust pipe to a 3.75 exhaust tip defiantly sounds better and on the highway not noticably loud. I inspected further under neath the car i found a torn inner cv boot on the passenger side the inner tie rods have seens better day along with the tie rod ends ball joints dont look to bad but think im going to replace them so everything is fresh. I have used moog in the past with good results. i know you guys love going to the stealer me ill stay far away from that place as possible so think. Thinking when i do the timing belt in 2500 miles cars getting some well need maintance. While im in the suspension should i change out the control arms are they usually fine? Thanks for all the help in advance
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Old February 21st, 2018, 18:19   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twitch View Post
i know you guys love going to the stealer me ill stay far away from that place as possible so think


Sarcasm?

Listen, one CAN get good prices on parts from the dealer. I do it from time to time; but, I do so via an Internet-based dealer outlet (I have 1stvwparts.com not too far away). Depends on what parts.

I get my suspension parts mostly from ID Parts. It's worth it to help support the great vendors that support this site.

Regarding whether to buy new control arms, it depends. If your existing ones are all rusty then you'd likely need to clean them up and repaint them; pressing out the old bushings and then pressing in new ones. Not sure if all replacements come pre-populated with bushings, but the ones I get from ID Parts come that way.
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Old February 22nd, 2018, 10:30   #58
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My control arms are not rusty but i doubt they have ever been replaced for the extra 80 bucks to have all new steering and suspension compents minus shocks and struts new think its worth just replacing the control arms while im in there replacing everything so everything is fresh plan on keeping this car since it will over time save me money compare to fuel of my truck plus maintance
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Old March 1st, 2018, 03:35   #59
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URGENT! Driving to work this morning my car would not accelerate in 5th gear at all and any slight incline it would drasticlly drop speed. when i got to work i did a first gear 4k-4.2k shift to try and maybe blow anything clogged up out i did not hear or feel the turbo. i already drove the car to work and it was slower then normal when cars are flying up on you doing 90+ it gets scary. would i be safe to drive the car to my shop (50ish miles) or am i safer to get my dad to pick me up with a trailer? what could possibly be wrong with the car no check engine lights and cluster looked normal while driving. HELP!
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Old March 1st, 2018, 08:18   #60
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Interweb Guess you have limp mode. If it's just low on power, it is safe to drive.
NOTE-The title of this thread is Looking at alh need help! You may get better results if you pursue in a problem related thread or start a new one.

Last edited by BobnOH; March 1st, 2018 at 08:30.
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