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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 8th, 2018, 06:38   #31
Genesis
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My 2 cents on the 5th gear swap is that it's not worth it. The difference in NVH will be somewhat material, but the change in fuel economy, while real, won't be sufficient to pay for the parts and time investment for an extremely long time, if ever. At very high speeds nearly all of the fuel economy impact is from aerodynamics, which of course changing a gear ratio doesn't alter.

I don't find the existing 5th gear ratio inappropriate for 80mph sustained highway speeds, which is as fast as you can travel nearly everywhere legally in the United States. I decided a long time ago to leave it alone as there is some risk of fretting-based failure of the replacement gear associated with this change as well.

These engines have no problem running at higher RPMs and in fact NOT being driven like you stole it tends to cause problems over time (mostly due to gunking up the turbo actuator if it is not regularly exercised.)
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Old February 8th, 2018, 08:05   #32
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^^ Pretty much as I've found (though I'll keep my 6spd in the one car). My car's sweet spot is right around 2,200 rpm, that's where FE tends to be the best- I think that this gets me about 65mph (max speed limit around here is 70mph). The 6spd would need to run about 75mph, which, I'm thinking (have not got my UltraGauge calibrated in this car yet), probably gets me about the same FE that my car gets at 65mph. Most of my driving is 60-65mph, so my car with its stock 5spd is actually better suited.
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Old February 8th, 2018, 11:22   #33
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Okay plan on changing out the thermostate after work today and see if that will fix my problem of not getting up to operating temp when i do the timing belt probably once its spring i plan on doing timing belt and cleaning the intake manifold if it needs to be cleaned since ill be that far into the engine already along with every fluid getting changed so i know its all fresh still need to meet up my buddy and hook up vcds and make sure everything is running 100% but thank for all the helpful information i would like to eventually add some power to the car but now just need it running reliably
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Old February 8th, 2018, 11:34   #34
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The thermostat is somewhat of a pain -- it's actually very accessible but the housing is right on top of the alternator, which will get flooded -- so cover it. Drain the radiator and oil cooler first to reduce the amount of coolant loss (and thus makeup required.)

Remember that you NEED VW-specific coolant for these cars -- DO NOT attempt to use "parts store" coolant in them! BAD THINGS happen if you mix them.....
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Old February 9th, 2018, 06:32   #35
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Changed the t state after work yesterday and there is orange coolant and i bought pink coolant so i just replaced what dumped out some dirt came out too so when i do the timing belt going to flush it with water and replace with all fresh coolant the t state wasnt hard at all to get to took maybe 20 mins harder to get it back in then to take out also put the car on the lift and everything is very clean underneath exhaust has been fixed at some point was able to drive the car to work today and did 75-80 down the highway with no issues at all only one speaker works tho i have th monsoon system plan on replacing the speakers sometime in the next week and my fuel gauge is wayy off going to do a sending unit i filled up put 150 miles on the trip and already reading close to half tank Thanks for all the help
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Old February 9th, 2018, 06:53   #36
Genesis
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That's bad news if there's orange stuff in there. And all pink is not the same either; GM has a pink coolant (it's in my '02 Suburban and was the factory fill) that is NOT compatible with the VW stuff.

You need to flush the system immediately and get the mixture out of there; you may have severe sludging, but if you some "dirt" what that really was is coolant sludge, and if it plugs up the radiator or worse, passages in the engine, you're in a LOT of trouble. Never mind that if the heater core gets clogged you're looking at a full day to remove the dash to get to it so you can replace it. FIX THAT RIGHT NOW.

G13 is compatible with the G12 that was the factory fill. OTHERS ARE NOT.

Last edited by Genesis; February 9th, 2018 at 06:56.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:14   #37
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I cant justify going to the dealer biggest rip off qnd scumbags in the auto world advanced auto gave me the pink pentofrost stuff which says is compatible with the vw stuff if anything will pick up 2 gallons mix it and drain my coolant car seems to be running fine and hate to waste coolant just to dump it and replace again in the mext couple 1000 miles which is only couple weeks for me
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:24   #38
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Pentofrost is POSSIBLY compatible -- which specific stuff is it? Pentofrost DOES make a compatible coolant.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:33   #39
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Pentofrost sf-g12 the pink colored stuff is what the parts store gave me if thats the correct stuff i will pick up another bottle mix it 50/50 and flush the system and put a 50/50 fresh mix in
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:40   #40
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Yep -- that's fine. Use distilled water for the mix, NOT tapwater (ever!)

The G13 (newer formulation) is superior but G12 is perfectly acceptable.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:50   #41
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Okay ill run to wally world get 2 gallons of distilled water after i flush it and fill with the pink coolant PROTECT THE BOOBIES lol and fill it back up how are these cars with hidden air pockets do i need to purge the system at all
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:56   #42
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Leave the cap off the coolant bottle when you start up; coolant will flow out of the return hose at the top of the bottle. It will drop materially on startup, and keep doing so -- then level off.

Then go get it good and warm, and drive it for a while, and it will probably drop again some.

I recommend filling to the BOTTOM of the "ok" band on the bottle, not in the middle or top. Why? Because then it's very easy to know if you're losing any to leaks. It may take a couple of small top-ups after a full flush and fill, and be aware that a full flush will NOT get all the water out, so my protocol for that is:

1. Flush with tapwater (since you need a lot to really flush) after draining what you can for taking it to your local hazmat disposal.

2. Drain as fully as possible.

3. Flush AGAIN, this time with distilled. Use at least five gallons. Yes, that's $5 -- so what? You now have nearly-solid distilled water in what won't drain. Drain again.

4. Now add the proper amount of COOLANT to make a 50/50 mix. The capacity is listed as 6 liters, so add 3 liters of undiluted COOLANT to the "empty" (it ain't) system. Now top with DISTILLED water until full. You now have a 50/50 mix.

5. Run the engine for a while. The level will drop. Add DISTILLED WATER for makeup, since you already added the correct amount of "neat" coolant. Repeat until you have a stable level in the bottle, which may take a couple of iterations.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 10:45   #43
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Thank you for all the help i have A LOT of 5 gallon buckets so plan on just draining coolant stick garden hose into the bottle fill up run car for 5 mins repeat till the water is clear then pour in distilled water get as much as that out as possible then mix 2/3 gallons of 50/50 distilled/coolant and pour in till everything seems good thank you for all the help
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Old February 9th, 2018, 11:25   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twitch View Post
Thank you for all the help i have A LOT of 5 gallon buckets so plan on just draining coolant stick garden hose into the bottle fill up run car for 5 mins repeat till the water is clear then pour in distilled water get as much as that out as possible then mix 2/3 gallons of 50/50 distilled/coolant and pour in till everything seems good thank you for all the help
I went through a fairly extensive flush job on the daughter's wagon when I did the TB. I'd spotted little bits of black stuff floating in the coolant. I used non-sudsing dishwashing liquid as I thought the crud might have been some oily residue. I suspect that it may have been remnants from a failing/failed WP: OP replaced it- he was a total hack and likely did a half-arsed job flushing. I would flush, fill and drive; repeat several times with final flushes. All has been good since (much to my relief).
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Old February 9th, 2018, 18:16   #45
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Since our family has three VAG vehicles in the garage and driveway I now just buy
Pentosin G13 and mix it in the bottle 50:50. Easier to just grab one container!
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