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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 5th, 2018, 14:28   #16
Rob Mayercik
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You can also use PowerService - been running 8oz. of PS per tank for years now in mine just to ensure good lubricity.

Nice to see another NJ TDIer pop up. Welcome aboard.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 05:10   #17
Twitch
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Finally got the car reg’d and insured yesterday and was driving it around town. whats the operatoing temperature on these cars it got above the fist 3 lines for the coolant temp and that about it and scanned the code which was P0128 which was something with coolant temps being to low when i get home today going to take it for a good highway run and see how it is on the highway
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Old February 6th, 2018, 05:38   #18
Genesis
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Check with VCDS and see if the number it shows at the ECU is similar to that shown on the gauge (which isn't labeled, but "normal" is in the ~190F range.)

The CTS has two separate sensors in it; one feeds the ECU, the other feeds the cluster display. If they are not reasonably identical change it.

If they ARE the same odds are your thermostat is stuck open partway. This is pretty-common on these cars as they age; change both the themostat and the housing pipe and O-ring (the pipe is cheap, it's plastic, and if it warps it will leak. In addition pay attention the the torque spec on those bolts -- it's sealed by an O-ring, NOT brute force, and you'll warp or crack the pipe if you crank on it beyond specs.) I strongly recommend popping for the OE thermostat even though it is quite a bit more expensive; the aftermarket ones sometimes are fine, sometimes not, and for the difference in money it's not worth having to do the job twice. You'll probably need some coolant (get the correct stuff; you CANNOT mix parts-store coolant with what is in there) as it's nearly impossible to get enough out of the block to prevent a fairly material mess when you remove the thermostat feed pipe to change the thermostat.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 05:51   #19
Twitch
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Thank you for a quick reply today when i get home i will hook up my auto enginutity to the car which reads generic codes and will display live data and take the car for a drive and see what it shows and will go from there but drove the car about 15-20 mins and had it idling for another 5 or more putting air in my tires at the gas station and only reached above the first 3 lines and my cluster does show the 190F temp right in the middle i heard the 205F termostate gets better mpg or should i stick with the 190 thanks for the quick reply
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Old February 6th, 2018, 05:53   #20
Genesis
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Buy the OE thermostat. IDparts has it, along with most of the other reputable places. Do not use a generic "parts store" one unless you want to do the job twice -- the parts store won't have the correct coolant either.

Note that when the cluster says "190" on the gauge what it really means is that it is somewhere between 175-205ish; the cluster is intentionally coded to lie to you and pin the needle right up the middle for coolant temperature anywhere in the "normal" range. This makes the "gauge" worthless for monitoring the cooling system when it's under heavy stress (e.g. while pulling a hill and heavily loaded), which is unfortunate; it's basically the same as an idiot light ("heh fool, you're either real cold or overheating!")
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Old February 6th, 2018, 06:43   #21
Twitch
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Genesis thank you for the very helpful information defiantly a deaign flaw from volkswagen but if i can get 40 mpg compared to my trucks 13-15 ill be happier then a pig rollin in mud im use to coolant temp gauges being pretty accurate when i plan on doing the timing belt at 195k miles i want to change every fluid in the car engine oil coolant transmission and brake fluid so i know everything is fresh. I also topped the fuel off and the gauge did not go 100% to full line went like one line below fuel so are these clusters just not very accurate. Sorry for a run on post also when i got on the car alil i did not hear the turbo at all is it just very quiet use to the turbo on my cummins were you can hear the turbo scream while roling into throttle. Thanks for all the help in advance
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Old February 6th, 2018, 07:18   #22
Genesis
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Naw, the cluster is fine it's just how it's programmed. Your fuel gauge issue is probably the sender in the tank.....

The turbo is not real loud on these either with the stock plumbing. You can hear it, but not loudly.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 08:10   #23
Twitch
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I plan on doing a 2.5in exhaust or 3in and maybe a cold air intake just for the sound going to check the snow screen out at my shop tonight and see if thats plugged up. When i was driving i went in a dirt parking lot going down my road and the car wouldnt even spin the tires in 1st gear putting the pedal to the floor are they really just that slow stock or should i be looking into something once again thank you everyone for the speedy replies and all the help
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Old February 6th, 2018, 09:21   #24
Genesis
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You need to get a log on the engine and see what's up. Specifically, are you making boost properly, etc. Intake may be clogged, MAF sensor bad, vacuum not getting to the actuator, etc. Right now you're guessing; find someone with VCDS or buy your own unit (if you're going to keep the car, it's almost-certainly a good investment over time.)
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Old February 6th, 2018, 09:54   #25
Twitch
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yes i plan on keeping the car since i got it for such a good price and will be saving me money compared to my truck or mustang commuting 100+ miles a day. 5-6 days a week for work. Hopefully this weekend i can meet up with my buddy and hook up vcds and see exactly what the cars doing and thanks for all the info and help. are there electronics on these turbos and if i ever do need a new turbo down the road are there any plug and play turbos that are slightly bigger

Last edited by Twitch; February 6th, 2018 at 11:20.
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Old February 6th, 2018, 15:04   #26
wonneber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twitch View Post
Genesis thank you for the very helpful information defiantly a deaign flaw from volkswagen but if i can get 40 mpg compared to my trucks 13-15 ill be happier then a pig rollin in mud
I definitely would not call it a design flaw.

If I saw my temp gauge going up & down as I drove in cold weather it would make me worry something's wrong and it was not reliable.

When I bought mine in late 02 I did a quick spread sheet to compare costs of gas in my Ranger or Wrangler (both about 20MPG on the road) to the 50MPG with the diesel I figured it would save me $1800 to $2000 a year.

After using it since then through June of last year the car actually paid for itself in fuel saving.

I did get rid of the Wrangler at that point. It was fun while I had it.
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Old February 7th, 2018, 04:39   #27
Twitch
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I am just use to my truck cummins where while driving i can see the t-stat open at 200 and drop to 180-175 and then if its a hot day creep passed 200 if im puling a grade with a trailer. Was able to hook up my scan tool (auto enginutity) and watch the temps and from the ecu hottest it got while driving was about 130 which in my guess means t stat is stuck wide open or PO removed it so will get one from the dealer also noticed my speedo is about 5mph off my speedo was reading 75 and ecu was reading 70 can vcds fix that? Also the rpms seemed alil high sitting at 75mph ecu indicated the rpms were sitting around 2800 is this normal?

Last edited by Twitch; February 7th, 2018 at 04:55.
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Old February 7th, 2018, 08:51   #28
Nevada_TDI
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Twitch, a couple of things here: VW has the odometers correct if the correct size tires are being used, the speedo is a different issue. VW has the speedo intentionally read high so no driver can use the "Officer, my speedometer must be reading too low..." and blame their speeding ticket on VW. At 72 MPH, my tach reads 2500 RPM, but I don't know what 75 MPH is off the top of my head. Are the tires on your car smaller diameter than the door plate recommends?
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Old February 7th, 2018, 09:17   #29
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I tend to see that, with everything stock, speedo shows about 3mph higher than actual.

Get the car operating at it's maximum condition before making any mods.

Don't tweak EGR via VCDS. This is pretty much an old-wives' tale. ONLY real way to mess with EGR is via tune: either remove and tune it out, or have a tune that reduces it- I am perfectly happy to keep it all working on my cars- [five of them in the family] I have it mitigated via tune.

Brakes. Suspension. You may think that things are good, but until you actually drive one of these cars with a tight suspension you're not really going to know for sure.

Forget altering the air-intake unless you're going to be pushing 175hp (150hp?) or above. Stock airboxes flow a lot of air.

Once you start pushing 120hp+ a stock clutch is going to start failing. Figure $500 (w/o labor).

Nozzles/injector work... lots of things to consider.
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Old February 8th, 2018, 05:13   #30
Twitch
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Thank you for all the info as of right now just want to get the car reliable and driving properly been busy with work and a million other things make sure all the suspension and everything is tight and then get the timing belt done before i start messing around with anything else also i was reading you can swap out 5th gear for a taller gear is i do lots of driving at 75+ And still get passed like im standing still running 2800rpm is fine for these engines or should i slow it down alil? I read with the .658 gear it drops your rpms roughly 600rpms which would result in better mpg and a quieter ride or is a mod not worth doing thank you for all the feed back
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