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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 30th, 2018, 10:20   #1
Gavin312
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Unhappy No turbo and low power on the drive home

Hello and thanks in advance
Hereís the problem, just after leaving work my car lost power and turbo. I limped it for a little while but then parked and will have it towed home today. Just after stopping it would start fine but still no power and turbo. I left it and went back later to (slowly) drive home but then then it wouldnít even come close to starting.

Next, I researched possible problems on this forum and found that it could be vacuum lines, turbo actuator etc....... then I can across one thread that discussed a clogged catalytic converter???? Hereís where it gets interesting a few months ago when I bought the car it donít have a catalytic converter so I replaced it so I could get the car registered. A couple weeks ago a rattle started and I found that it was inside the catalytic converter, it only rattled when the car was cold and I was planning on having it checked and/replaced but here we are.

So, my question is........ is it possible this could be the problem thatís causing my issues? Of course Iím going to check all the lines, hoses, connections etc. but wanted opinions from you all as well? Ideas???????????

Before this happened the car drove and ran great (minus the rattle in the CC) have had no issues and nothing seemed to be wrong.

Again thanks in advance..... this forum is awesome even though this is my first post.

2002 jetta MKIV AlH, all stock with automatic trans. All vacuum lines had been replaced with high quality lines before I bought it.
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Old January 30th, 2018, 12:19   #2
oilhammer
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Can only guess, since you have not asked the ECU what is going on, and you'll need an appropriate scan tool for that task.

Lots of things can cause low power. You assume it is the turbo, but it may not be. Or, if it is, it could be under or over boost. Impossible to know. The ECU will have some clues most likely.
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Old January 30th, 2018, 18:16   #3
wonneber
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^^^ 2X
With VCDS you can scan for codes, log a run saving the results, and see what the boost pressure actually is compared to how much is requested.
Check http://www.ross-tech.com/
Might even be as simple as a vacuum hose off.
With a vacuum pump check hos much vacuum is going to the actuator on the turbo.
Also, from the top check if it holds vacuum.
Long run its the best investment.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 10:57   #4
Gavin312
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Ok, Got me a VCDS and it's awesome i must say! Following up on the above post here's what ive got.
1) the no start was because of a dead battery... replaced that.
2) replaced the N75 before getting the VCDS .... so that's good
3) VCDS test of group 011 shows that the N75 cycles between 0 and 96.9,
the Turbo actual cycles between 846 and 867 and all this is at idle. I think the requested is 903.... so that's not looking good.
4) while the test was running I watched the VNT and could see it move from open to the stop screw without any sticking.... at least from what i could see. Iv'e ordered an new VNT actuator but I'm not sure thats going to be it.

So, the car starts and idles fine...... but I have no boost and/or power. Do i need to run any other tests or is there any other information you guys need to help me figure out what is going on..........

HELP Please!!!!!!!
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Old February 10th, 2018, 12:19   #5
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Did you run a scan for stored codes?

For starters, you probably should run some boost vs. actual tests and plot them now that you have the VCDS. That will tell you if your turbo is working properly. Search the site for what else to plot at the same time.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 12:26   #6
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What does "no power" mean? Even in limp mode you're going to have power (essentially that resembling no turbo).

"the Turbo actual cycles between 846 and 867 and all this is at idle. I think the requested is 903.... so that's not looking good."

Huh?
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Old February 10th, 2018, 12:29   #7
Gavin312
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Oops... yes i scanned for codes and got the following:

17964 =charges pressure-neg deviation
17978 = control mod. locked

how to a run boost v actual test....... sorry very new at this but trying to figure it out :-)
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Old February 10th, 2018, 12:34   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
What does "no power" mean? Even in limp mode you're going to have power (essentially that resembling no turbo).

"the Turbo actual cycles between 846 and 867 and all this is at idle. I think the requested is 903.... so that's not looking good."

Huh?
sorry .....no power meaning the turbo seems to definitely not be working..... the car will drive but slowly with no turbo as far as i can tell.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 12:55   #9
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OK, 17964 IS related to the turbo.

If it all of a sudden lost power then either a vacuum line gave up the ghost or the turbo did. A turbo going belly up will usually make a sound.

Also check that the boost pipes are connected. If they're not then you should be getting some black smoke out the tail pipe.

If it's the N75 that crapped you can try swapping it with the N18 (if you still have the EGR bits in place). Same valve. Careful about pulling the hoses, the plastic nipples on the valves can be a bit brittle: usually best to slice down the nipples and sacrifice a bit of the hose (make sure you'll have enough to reconnect); some silicone spray might help.

Regarding that other code:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=105291
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Old February 10th, 2018, 13:09   #10
Gavin312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
OK, 17964 IS related to the turbo.

If it all of a sudden lost power then either a vacuum line gave up the ghost or the turbo did. A turbo going belly up will usually make a sound.

Also check that the boost pipes are connected. If they're not then you should be getting some black smoke out the tail pipe.

If it's the N75 that crapped you can try swapping it with the N18 (if you still have the EGR bits in place). Same valve. Careful about pulling the hoses, the plastic nipples on the valves can be a bit brittle: usually best to slice down the nipples and sacrifice a bit of the hose (make sure you'll have enough to reconnect); some silicone spray might help.

Regarding that other code:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=105291
New N75 just installed..... checked the pipes and they all appear to be in good shape, plus no smoke black or otherwise. when the car went into limp mode or the turbo went out, whichever it was, there was no sound but just lost power.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 13:15   #11
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OK, sorry, missed that you installed a new N75*. As long as you are sure it's all connected up OK then you're going to need to verify vacuum and the actuator. Possible that you got the actuator iced up (this is known to happen).

* New as in brand new? What brand/manufacturer? (regardless, DOAs do/can happen with any component/part).

Generally things like this don't pop up all of a sudden w/o a bang. Sticking turbo vanes, a common occurrence, don't happen all at once; and generally the ECU will be reset out of limp mode by a restart.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 13:38   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavin312 View Post
how to a run boost v actual test....... sorry very new at this but trying to figure it out :-)
Read this guide by Malone Tuning:

https://malonetuning.com/assets/file...ging_guide.pdf
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Old February 10th, 2018, 14:37   #13
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First, thanks for all those who have posted and given advice.........

Ok I just hooked up the mityvac and tested the vacuum on the line for the actuator...... the VNT begins to move at about 3 in.hg and stops at 14 in.hg.

Is the 14 in.hg low? I'm sure everything i've researched is saying it shouldn't hit the stop until 18 in.hg or higher????

Again thanks in advance!!
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Old February 10th, 2018, 15:43   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavin312 View Post
First, thanks for all those who have posted and given advice.........

Ok I just hooked up the mityvac and tested the vacuum on the line for the actuator...... the VNT begins to move at about 3 in.hg and stops at 14 in.hg.

Is the 14 in.hg low? I'm sure everything i've researched is saying it shouldn't hit the stop until 18 in.hg or higher????

Again thanks in advance!!
4" to 18" hg is the recommended vacuum for the span.
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Old February 11th, 2018, 07:51   #15
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Stopping at 14 might not be the problem, though it would be good to work on this. Could be exercising things a bit could help.

Now it would be good to see what kind of vacuum the system is making available.
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