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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old February 10th, 2018, 20:13   #31
J.Klassen
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What exhaust manifold will you be using?
The exhaust manifold is a one off totally custom piece. I used stainless and TIG welded the whole thing. Pics to come.
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Old February 10th, 2018, 20:49   #32
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Next up, accelerator pedal time.

TDI is electronic and the truck was cable.

Bracket made to mount to existing studs.

On the firewall.

Looks like we are going to have some interference problems.

Modification time.


A little bit of 3M Panel Bond ought to do it. I work in a collision repair shop and the 3M rep told me to use this stuff if there was ever any doubts

Just to make sure though I riveted it as well.

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Old February 10th, 2018, 20:51   #33
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And installed it.
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Old February 18th, 2018, 15:03   #34
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Alright, next up was the transmission. The 4x4 ratios in these trucks are quite high so I was turning about 2700-2800 rpm at 100 km/h (60 mph). With my new found torque I could lower that. One way would be to change ring and pinion ratios, but that is pretty expensive compared to changing the ratios inside that trans. So I ordered a 4x2 input and counter gear from Midwest Transmission and proceeded to install them. This will bring me down to 2450 rpm at 100 km/h. I am on the stock tire size right now which is 29" tall. I might go up to 31" tall tires later on which would put me at about 2300 rpm.

Chucked that homie up onto the bench

And removed the t-case


Removed the back half

Then took the bell housing off (which is integrated with the front half of the case) and stuck the gear set into the vice

New input and counter gear

Sadly I had to use a smaller roller bearing than the 4x4 one

Pic of the keys that Jimbote was talking about

This spacer/shim had teeth on it that matched the old 4x4 ratio

So I removed them because they were not allowing the input and counter gear to mesh properly. I have no idea why they were there in first place. They added no extra strength and the trans still shifts just fine without them.
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Old February 18th, 2018, 15:05   #35
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New gears and bearing installed

Front back on with new seals

And all buttoned up and ready to go back into the truck.
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Old February 20th, 2018, 05:04   #36
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The little thin gear is an anti backlash gear... You don't see them very often in transmissions but you do see them used quite a bit in cam gears... I like the body panel adhesive idea, been hearing about it for a few years and would really like to try it out
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Last edited by jimbote; February 20th, 2018 at 07:46.
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Old February 25th, 2018, 14:36   #37
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The little thin gear is an anti backlash gear... You don't see them very often in transmissions but you do see them used quite a bit in cam gears... I like the body panel adhesive idea, been hearing about it for a few years and would really like to try it out
Oh good, I am glad I kept it. I had seen some pics of this trans on the web where somebody pulled it apart and it was missing. Though they reported not having any shifting problems.

Yah that 3m panel bond is some pretty crazy stuff. Its kind of expensive though and you need a special gun to squeeze it out. It is two part and the gun has two plungers that are different sizes. Also has a 24 hour cure time at room temp but only one hour if you put a heat light on it.
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Old February 25th, 2018, 15:13   #38
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Alright, I know this is a little backwards but I started the exhaust from the back of the truck. I had these tips left over from a project on my g35 so hey, can't let them go to waste right!

Tacked up and ready for welding.

The exhaust will be 2.5" straight pipe with a couple of large straight through resonator/mufflers that I also had left over from the g35 project.

And here is how far I got before needing to have my trans and engine in place.

Gauges arrived! These are factory match 4th gen dodge gauges but I used them anyway cause they looked nice.

Time to make a custom pillar pod.
Step 1 remove original a-pillar trim to make new part off of.

Step 2 Add raised area for gauge wires to go.

Step 3 Cover with tin foil.

Step 4 Layer on fiberglass.

Step 5 Trim and add cardboard tubes that luckily fit the gauges perfectly.

Step 6 A little bit of filler.
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Old February 25th, 2018, 15:16   #39
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Step 7 Got it primed at work and ready to be color matched to the trim later on.

Time to test fit in the truck.
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Old February 25th, 2018, 18:43   #40
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Step 7 Got it primed at work and ready to be color matched to the trim later on.

Time to test fit in the truck.
those are sweet looking!
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Old February 25th, 2018, 22:02   #41
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Now that's cool; thanks for sharing!
But just to be sure, the fiberglass piece you made attaches to the factory trim piece right?
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Old March 4th, 2018, 14:36   #42
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Now that's cool; thanks for sharing!
But just to be sure, the fiberglass piece you made attaches to the factory trim piece right?
Yes the gauge pod is attached to the original trim piece. I attached it with two sided tape, because I did not want to drill any holes in the original. Now that I have been driving it for a while I am going to have to redo the tape and add a little more because it is starting to come loose. It probably doesn't help that I put it on outside in December of last year lol.
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Old March 4th, 2018, 15:07   #43
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Just so you guys all know, as I post pictures in this thread this is the order that things happened. A lot of it was done before I even knew if the engine was going to fit in the engine bay. I would have liked to put the engine in first but Randy (EvGuy) was working on my adapter which was essentially a prototype as it was the first one made for the this engine and trans combination and that kind of thing takes time haha.

So here is the beginning of the engine mounts. A plate made for each side of the engine.

Driver's side

And passenger side.


I was looking under the jetta donor car and spied this beauty. Supposedly only the automatic mk4s came with a fuel cooler. It will be mounted on the frame rail in the return line.

Holley fuel pressure regulator, new fuel filter and the stock clamp from the jetta engine bay. Time to make it all work together.


Final modifications and paint. Ready to go into the truck.


In its new home.
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Old March 11th, 2018, 17:11   #44
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So next I hung the portion of the exhaust that was complete and here are a few pics of that.



I knew that the turbo oil drain was going to be custom so I scavenged the fittings from the original turbo oil drain.


I got to checking things cause what better time to do maintenance than when the engine is out right. The stock 90 Amp VW alternator was toast. So I replaced it with a re-man AC Delco unit which is actually a 120 Amp Valeo.
I looked into buying the parts to rebuild it but by the time I got the special tools and parts it was only a little more money to get the new one plus it was a 120 Amp where as the trucks original was a 60 Amp.



I wish I took more pictures of this part of the project but it was just so time consuming with tricky measuring that I didn't do it. I wanted to use the trucks AC compressor because it was smaller, the hoses already fit, and the wiring was correct for it. The only problem was that it is v-belt and the VW accessory drive is serpentine. I took both pumps apart and it turns out they use the same size bearing. The coil magnets where different sizes though. So after a lot of measuring and thinking (clutch plate has to be 1mm or less away from the pulley face so that when the magnet pulls on it, it will get sucked toward the pulley and engage the AC pump) a little lathe work from one of my dad's friends and some careful TIG action I ended up with a Nissan pump with a VW serpentine belt drive.

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Old March 18th, 2018, 17:08   #45
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Ok next up was turbo manifold time. I had wanted to make a somewhat equal length manifold but when I got to looking at all the restraints (space, oil drain, connection to intercooler, bolt access, etc) I just had to make the best of the situation. So I call this my "tubular logish manifold" haha.

People talk about turbo manifolds cracking from the weight of the turbo hanging off of them. What better way to prevent that than to weld the two flanges together. I started by tacking them together.


The first runner tacked up.

And the second.

Test fit on the engine.

Third runner.

And the last one tacked in place.

Fully welded up, and yes I did back purge with argon. In the middle you can see the bung for the EGT probe. It sticks down through the merge collector and part way into the exhaust housing for a accurate reading.


For my first time welding stainless I think it turned out pretty good.
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