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Fuels & Lubricants Discussion all about Fuels & Lubricants. synthetic oil, conventional oil, brands, change intervals, diesel grades, gelling and such debated items like that. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. This forum is NOT for the discussion of biodiesel and other alternative fuels.

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Old September 1st, 2016, 01:50   #1
pkhoury
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Location: Bandera, TX
Fuel Economy: CR - 36-41, PD - 39-48 (26-32 while towing)
Default Rotella T6 in a PD engine?

Is anyone here using Rotella T6 in their PD? And if so, has anyone done an oil analysis? I'm leaning towards going with T6 for my CR, and would like to start using it in my PD as well. I used it once with no problems, but my tuner still thinks I should go for the more expensive 505 01 (not available locally).
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2004 Golf GLS 5MT -
Malone Stage 4, VNT17, DC Stage 2 clutch, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, MFA cluster swap, dieselgeek Panzer plate and short shifter, Bosal towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Hopkins short-proof trailer light converter, darkside SMIC, intake manifold, and tip pipe, PD150 airbox
2005 Jetta Wagon GLS (mom's car) - Malone Stage 4, VNT17, MFA cluster swap, Panzer Plate, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, darkside SMIC
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mom's car) - stock for now...

Other diesels:
Ford 5900 tractor
Ford 3400 Industrial tractor
2016 Mahindra XTV (1L Kohler diesel)
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Old September 1st, 2016, 06:03   #2
ketchupshirt88
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this is all from the "what oil do i use" sticky, just paraphrased:

the 507 spec for common rails is due to the DPF becoming clogged with ash if other oils are used. oils in the CR's must also be able to tolerate some fuel dilution because of the regen cycles.

the 505 01 spec for PD is due to the high pressures in the contact surfaces of the cam and unit injectors. Increased cam wear is inevitable if lesser oils are used.

the likely consequences are pretty clear. you might be able to do T6 on an "emissions deleted" CR but i wouldn't want to risk the increased cam wear in a PD...
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Old September 1st, 2016, 11:39   #3
turbobrick240
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I don't have a pd (yet), but I wouldn't hesitate to use Rotella T6 in one if I did. The 505 stuff is no magical elixir. In fact, The 505 5w-30 oil is thought to be partly responsible for many early cam failures. I know your common rail is deleted like mine Paul, so I'd use it in that too. In fact I'm using it in my common rail at the moment.

Edit: check your email Paul, I think the green Castrol you got is supposed to be green.

Last edited by turbobrick240; September 1st, 2016 at 11:42.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 12:00   #4
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There's a lot of us using T6 in our PD cars without issue.

I'm 100k on T6 on the original cam. Hasn't magically eaten any lobes sine switching to T6 when I bought the car.

If you check bobistheoilguy.Com, you see a few uoa's on T6 in pd engines. Nothing catastrophic.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 13:43   #5
pkhoury
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobrick240 View Post
I don't have a pd (yet), but I wouldn't hesitate to use Rotella T6 in one if I did. The 505 stuff is no magical elixir. In fact, The 505 5w-30 oil is thought to be partly responsible for many early cam failures. I know your common rail is deleted like mine Paul, so I'd use it in that too. In fact I'm using it in my common rail at the moment.

Edit: check your email Paul, I think the green Castrol you got is supposed to be green.
When I bought the car, the last oil change on the paperwork I got showed 5W30, so I actually put in T6 for 5K (and changed again when I got to 210K, so I could get back on regular change intervals). My tuner kept steering me towards the 505 01 spec of 5W40, but it's not exactly easy to get, unless I order it online and wait a week for it to arrive. I just wanted to see what others had to say from UOA and etc.

This is also probably a different topic, but when running the car hard at times, does that lead to a loss of oil, where I need to replenish it before I do a complete change? I've noticed this on both cars, which have the same exhaust setups.
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2010 Jetta Sportwagen - Malone DSG tune, Malone Stage 3.5, CR170, buzzken 3" straight pipe(resonator deleted), PolarFIS, Panzer plate, front and rear fogs, Bosal towhitch, Bilstein B8/Neuspeed 28mm swaybar, 2micron CP3 upgrade kit
2004 Golf GLS 5MT -
Malone Stage 4, VNT17, DC Stage 2 clutch, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, MFA cluster swap, dieselgeek Panzer plate and short shifter, Bosal towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Hopkins short-proof trailer light converter, darkside SMIC, intake manifold, and tip pipe, PD150 airbox
2005 Jetta Wagon GLS (mom's car) - Malone Stage 4, VNT17, MFA cluster swap, Panzer Plate, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, darkside SMIC
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mom's car) - stock for now...

Other diesels:
Ford 5900 tractor
Ford 3400 Industrial tractor
2016 Mahindra XTV (1L Kohler diesel)
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Old September 1st, 2016, 15:02   #6
turbobrick240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkhoury View Post
When I bought the car, the last oil change on the paperwork I got showed 5W30, so I actually put in T6 for 5K (and changed again when I got to 210K, so I could get back on regular change intervals). My tuner kept steering me towards the 505 01 spec of 5W40, but it's not exactly easy to get, unless I order it online and wait a week for it to arrive. I just wanted to see what others had to say from UOA and etc.

This is also probably a different topic, but when running the car hard at times, does that lead to a loss of oil, where I need to replenish it before I do a complete change? I've noticed this on both cars, which have the same exhaust setups.
A lot of shops like to play things by the book. I can understand that. But tons of PD owners use RT6 with great results (as shown by UOA). If your cars are using less than 3-4 quarts per 10k miles, I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of idling and using the full powerband does tend to increase consumption. My car uses about 1-1.5 quarts per 10k.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 19:41   #7
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T6 would be a better oil to use in the PD than would be a 505.01.

Turbo Diesel Truck is another to consider.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 20:08   #8
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I maintain a PD with 300k on it that's seen nothing but T6 since it's first oil change. Still has the original cam.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 21:15   #9
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Another vote for T6 in PD.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 21:50   #10
pkhoury
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I guess T6 it is. I just put it today in the CR (no DPF, so I don't need to worry about low ash 507 00). I added about a liter to the PD so it was back to a normal fill level.

As for oil consumption - if I'm losing about a liter or so after 5K, is it fine to top off, or better to do a complete change?
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2010 Jetta Sportwagen - Malone DSG tune, Malone Stage 3.5, CR170, buzzken 3" straight pipe(resonator deleted), PolarFIS, Panzer plate, front and rear fogs, Bosal towhitch, Bilstein B8/Neuspeed 28mm swaybar, 2micron CP3 upgrade kit
2004 Golf GLS 5MT -
Malone Stage 4, VNT17, DC Stage 2 clutch, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, MFA cluster swap, dieselgeek Panzer plate and short shifter, Bosal towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Hopkins short-proof trailer light converter, darkside SMIC, intake manifold, and tip pipe, PD150 airbox
2005 Jetta Wagon GLS (mom's car) - Malone Stage 4, VNT17, MFA cluster swap, Panzer Plate, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, darkside SMIC
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mom's car) - stock for now...

Other diesels:
Ford 5900 tractor
Ford 3400 Industrial tractor
2016 Mahindra XTV (1L Kohler diesel)
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Old September 1st, 2016, 22:27   #11
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Yeah, just top 'er off, and motor on to 10k.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:56   #12
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youll find pretty much everyone runs T6 or TDT in the PDs and cams wear the same or better than running 505.01 spec oil.

I run TDT (mobil1 turbo diesel truck) in everything I own, gas or diesel. motorcycles, chevy v8, caterpillar, TDI, Kubota, briggs and stratton, etc.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 08:44   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkhoury View Post
I guess T6 it is. I just put it today in the CR (no DPF, so I don't need to worry about low ash 507 00). I added about a liter to the PD so it was back to a normal fill level.

As for oil consumption - if I'm losing about a liter or so after 5K, is it fine to top off, or better to do a complete change?

T6 is "low ash", as is all CJ-4 spec oil.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 08:58   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinski4 View Post
T6 is "low ash", as is all CJ-4 spec oil.
Right. If we look at the jug, we find the API Label and find it says CJ-4. This isn't an odd-ball Jeep, but a specification, part of which states that it a low ash oil.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 03:49   #15
pkhoury
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This totally changes all that jazz about "strictly sticking to 505 01 or 507 00."
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2010 Jetta Sportwagen - Malone DSG tune, Malone Stage 3.5, CR170, buzzken 3" straight pipe(resonator deleted), PolarFIS, Panzer plate, front and rear fogs, Bosal towhitch, Bilstein B8/Neuspeed 28mm swaybar, 2micron CP3 upgrade kit
2004 Golf GLS 5MT -
Malone Stage 4, VNT17, DC Stage 2 clutch, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, MFA cluster swap, dieselgeek Panzer plate and short shifter, Bosal towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Hopkins short-proof trailer light converter, darkside SMIC, intake manifold, and tip pipe, PD150 airbox
2005 Jetta Wagon GLS (mom's car) - Malone Stage 4, VNT17, MFA cluster swap, Panzer Plate, buzzken 2.5" straight pipe, darkside SMIC
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mom's car) - stock for now...

Other diesels:
Ford 5900 tractor
Ford 3400 Industrial tractor
2016 Mahindra XTV (1L Kohler diesel)
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