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Old January 1st, 2018, 12:03   #1
DriverDave
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Default Frozen

Is it possible for a frozen intercooler to prevent the engine from turning ? Here's why I ask... Two weeks ago, at temps near freezing, my jsw failed to start and has continued the same symptoms. Ignition lights up normal. When switched to start, everything electrical goes dark. Condition remained the same after putting charger on battery until full: also using start feature of charger - blank. This car has had several hard starts (always at near freezing temps) that are likely related to the intercooler moisture issue despite the dealer installed service bulletin repair. Now that it's been really cold for weeks and no warm up in sight and I'm mad at this car, I pushed it. Literally, we pushed it down the street and poped the clutch. Nada - nothing but black marks in the street.
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Old January 1st, 2018, 12:37   #2
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No. A totally blocked intake system will not keep the motor from rotating. I suppose if you had ice in the IC that melted and was sucked into a cylinder it could lock up the motor.

It does sound seized. I guess I'd begin by removing the starter to see if it's the cause. Or maybe the plugs first if you really think you had ice in the IC.
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Old January 1st, 2018, 12:43   #3
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Could be hydrolocked from a slug of intercooler water. In which case, trying to bump start it is a VERY bad idea. I'd try warming the car (if it has been recently exposed to freezing temps), removing the glow plugs, then trying the starter. Hopefully valves haven't been damaged.
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Old January 1st, 2018, 16:13   #4
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yep sounds like its hydro locked, bad idea trying to bump start it now
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Old January 1st, 2018, 16:47   #5
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This is a known issue with the mk6. Have a look at this thread

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=

You should warm it up (if you have a garage and a way to heat it) and drain the intercooler hose before you try anything else. Keep pushing it and damage may follow. I had a similar experience once just last winter. Never did find any water. Pull your belly pan and pop the hose clamp off the intercooler hose connected to the intake on the engine. check for water/ice. I would Also pull your glow plugs like turbobrick has suggested above. Better to be safe than sorry.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 06:56   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverDave View Post
... When switched to start, everything electrical goes dark...
This sounds like an ignition switch that is getting a bit of wear and no longer likes very cold temperatures. I'm running into those right now on 2 of my cars - below zero and they aren't playing anymore. You have to play with the key while holding it in start to get things going.

Good luck,

PH
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 07:36   #7
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I agree with Powder Hound ...

But, I'd commence with the simple things such as check/clean battery connections, check voltage of the battery, load test the battery, etc.

Always remember to engage the park brake before turning on the Ignition so that the head lights do not come on. They will go off during the start mode, but they do drain the battery during the GP glow period if the park brake is not engaged.

There is no direct connection between the Intercooler and the ignition switch to cause the lights to dim when you turn the ignition to Start.... zero connection.

When attempting to kick-start the engine, did you use 1st or 2nd gear? 3rd gear is far better to kick-start a TDI engine. Also, the "kick" needs to be in conjunction with glowed-plugs, especially during extremely cold conditions which I believe you are experiencing at the moment!
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 08:00   #8
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Here is a link to the Intercooler condensation issue which includes your 2012 engine.. Interesting..

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=302863
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 17:09   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
Here is a link to the Intercooler condensation issue which includes your 2012 engine.. Interesting..

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=302863
My link didn’t work. Thanks Andy. Interesting point on the ignition. When I had my episode, the engine would crank, but it was laboring hard when cranking and sputtered but didn’t fire completely. I only did that once before remembering the ice/condensation in the intercooler and hoses. To powder hound and Andy’s point, if the starter solenoid is not receiving power from the ignition, all will be dark and the engine will not crank whilst having the key in the start position.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 17:23   #10
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I think the black skid marks left in the street when the op tried to bump start the car are a pretty good indicator that the engine is locked up.
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Old January 3rd, 2018, 10:02   #11
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Wondering whether popping off the serpentine belt might not be a worthwhile adventure? I know that if things lock up here that starters might not be able to budge; not sure if they can lock up tight enough to keep an attempted compression start from turning the engine.

OP, what gear did you try compression starting with/in?
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Old January 3rd, 2018, 10:18   #12
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You can bend rods in these if you persist in trying to start something with a cylinder full of oily slush water.

You need to:

Get the car in an enclosed area that can be brought up to above freezing (the higher the better).

Remove the lower shield, and lower charge air hose, neat the front of the engine, down low. Let the tube drain. There will often be a mixture of brownish-black oil and water ice slush. Looks like a Slushee made from road grime.

Try to gently rotate the engine by hand with a tool, at the crank, in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) first. If it acts like it does not want to go, stop, and gently go backwards a little (make sure the transmission is in neutral if it is a manual).

If you can back it up some, then go back forward, and get one full revolution (two crank 360 turns), then put the tube back in place, and start the engine. It will cough and sputter, but should clear up pretty quickly.

If you cannot get the crank to go around twice, you will want to remove the glow plugs. Beware, the connectors on the plugs are fiddly, and their plastic clamshell covers are easily broken. The plugs have pressure sensors in them, hence the multi-wired connectors. I gently twist them on the plug back and forth, then gently pull straight up and off. #4 cyl is the worst, as the harness and shape of the intake make it difficult to get the connector up and over out of the way. You'll want to unsnap the harness stay to give you a bit of extra room.

Once the connectors are off, the plugs are not anything strange, just down in there and very long. I like to blow some air out in case any debris found its way down into the bores in the head.

Once the plugs are out, crank the engine... first by hand, then you can do it with the starter. You'll set a bunch of DTCs... but that is the least of your worries if you are to this point. This will allow a place for any moisture to blow out of the cylinder(s).

Then put the plugs back in (I use a little WD40 on them), gently snap the connectors back on (feel for them to properly seat), and start the engine.
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Old January 3rd, 2018, 10:33   #13
compu_85
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In a word: Yes. IC Icing can prevent the engine from even turning over. Happened on my father's Jetta. The car was driven to where it was parked, I got in it the next day, and the engine was hydrolocked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Teyq-EdC_s

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