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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old January 1st, 2018, 22:41   #16
Mongler98
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1st step, get a thermometer, inferred or probe.
Start taking readings from vents, heater core lines under the hood, lower and upper hose when it’s to "temp" VW temp gauges on TDI's are very "vague" TDI's temps are not constant like a gas engine, so VW programed them to be "to temp" when it could be 95*F to 120* Depending on eh model. Not sure about yours exactly but this is typical on VW.
Until you know exactly what temp what hoses are doing what, your wasting time and parts. Get some data. If your heater core is getting the same temp in and out and no hot air, well then your core is completely clogged to the point where no heat exchange is happening (assuming your vents and blower and filter are working properly. An Air lock will be obvious. Must TDI's do not ever put out decent heat.
How did you and what did you use to flush the system? What did it look like when you did it? Just running water in a dirty system does not make it better.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 09:30   #17
JB05
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A how-to thread somewhere here mentions using a miti-vac connected to the upper return hose on the reservoir while pouring in the G13 coolant. I found this out after I had changed my t-stat about a month ago and suspect I have an air lock. I do get good cabin heat, but my engine runs hotter than it has in the past.
Post #7 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...aining+coolant

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Old January 2nd, 2018, 13:01   #18
Beerbaron666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
1st step, get a thermometer, inferred or probe.
Start taking readings from vents, heater core lines under the hood, lower and upper hose when itís to "temp" VW temp gauges on TDI's are very "vague" TDI's temps are not constant like a gas engine, so VW programed them to be "to temp" when it could be 95*F to 120* Depending on eh model. Not sure about yours exactly but this is typical on VW.
Until you know exactly what temp what hoses are doing what, your wasting time and parts. Get some data. If your heater core is getting the same temp in and out and no hot air, well then your core is completely clogged to the point where no heat exchange is happening (assuming your vents and blower and filter are working properly. An Air lock will be obvious. Must TDI's do not ever put out decent heat.
How did you and what did you use to flush the system? What did it look like when you did it? Just running water in a dirty system does not make it better.
Ya I just used a water hose to see if water would flow through the heater core, which it did) and the water didn't look all nasty or anything it didn't take long for it to look clean.
I cant seem to get a steady flow on the return hose into the reservior, coolant will come out but it seems to be purging. I tried purging the air for an hour with only bursts of water here and there
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 13:19   #19
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Ugh, sorry, just reread (first post) in which you mentioned the flow through the heater core was good.

For now you might look to block off your grill to help maintain what heat you do have.

Need to physically check temps. If not trapped air (proper coolant level) and there's good circulation then that only leaves the thermostat and water pump.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 13:27   #20
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Sounds like maybe the heat control is not engaging. When you slide it from cold to hot does it feel right? Never had to mess with my heat controls, but something in there tells the coolant to flow thru the heater core when turned to warm.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 13:37   #21
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Find a good long hill, or a highway run long enough to get the temps as high as you can. Check to make sure the lower radiator hose is hot, or at least warming. If it is, the thermostat has opened. See what temp that is and compare to the factory thermostat setting. If it is too cold, the thermostat may have failed or stuck partly open. Either one of those will starve you for heat in the cabin on a cold day. Also look to see if the coolant is circulating into the reservoir tank when the engine is cooler, before the thermostat opens. If there is no flow from the small hose on the top, your water pump might be stripped.

If all of this feels normal then pop off the lower cover of the dash on the left side and you can see the heater core hoses on the heater assembly. There is a cover you can pop off the core and feel it too. It should be too hot to touch with the gauge reading midway. Not uncommon for cores to plug, mine did and the only heat I had was from the electric grid.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 13:46   #22
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I'm surprised nobody's bought up the blend door thing.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 14:08   #23
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Just to refresh, here's what the OP stated in post #1:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerbaron666 View Post
I just replaced the timing belt and water pump, new thermostat and housing, I've checked the blend doors and they are moving and the foam is still good, I've flushed the heater core and water flows through it fine , I've pulled off various hoses and flushed them and everything seems to flow fine. The car gets up up to operating temp and holds fine but I just can't seem to get any heat at al.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 17:37   #24
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The reason I asked about passengers is I wanted to know if they complained about cold feet. Did you check and see if the cover for the pollen filter has fallen out.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 17:39   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
Just to refresh, here's what the OP stated in post #1:
OH. Never mind me, then. Carry on.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 17:54   #26
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Read post and see if it can shed any light.


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=180593
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 18:47   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sisyphus View Post
OH. Never mind me, then. Carry on.
I was first! (figured I'd repost the OP's key paragraph so we don't have anyone else join our club )
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 19:57   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerbaron666 View Post
I've checked the blend doors and they are moving and the foam is still good,
You said, "the foam is still good". How did you check that?

Also just because water flows through the heater core does't mean its ok. IT could be bypassing large portions of the coils and still look like it was flowing ok.
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 21:00   #29
Beerbaron666
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First thanks everyone for the responses and I'll try and answer as much as I can
I checked the blend door by removing the center of the dash and opening the box up and they looked to be in good shape, I left the heater controls hooked up and everything seemed to o move as it should.
I just replaced the water pump and thermostat just before Christmas so I'm hoping it's not a faulty water pump.
I did run water through the heater core and true it doesn't mean it's not plugged, I really hope it's not cause I do not want to tackle that job but I'm starting to think it is.
A question on top of all my other questions lol is there any sort of diverter valve on the heater core or anything mechanical or electric that it could be?
Question two is there anyway to unclog the heater core if it is plugged?
I've tackled a lot of stuff in the auto world but this has me stumped
I'm going to try a couple more tricks to "bleed" the system and hope for the best but please keep the ideas coming at this point I'm willing to try just about anything
Thanks again for all the help! Cheers
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Old January 2nd, 2018, 21:25   #30
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Warm the car up, find a big hill to climb , and pretend it's Pikes Peak . Safely, of course. If a couple runs like that doesn't revive the heat, I'd suspect a blocked heater core. There are flush treatments (usually acid) for blocked cores, but I'd just replace a bad one.
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