Non start

2003 1.9 tdi fuel shutoff valve short to ground, accelerator relay intermittent are the codes found vehicle will not start any suggestions

I'd start by checking the 109 Relay. ......... to do so, see if you have 12+ volts at Fuses 32, 34 & 43. If no current on these, the relay is bad.

Here is latest scan with VGA/vas
Address 01: Engine

3 faults found
18009-relay for supply voltage terminal 30 (j317) p1601 -35-00 - implausible signal

17946- Fuel shutoff solenoid (N109) p1538 - 35-10 open or short to ground - intermittent

16612 - throttle pedal position sensor (G79) p0228 - 35-10 - signal too high - intermittent

Readiness 11011

hypno said:

Here is latest scan with VGA/vas
Address 01: Engine

3 faults found
18009-relay for supply voltage terminal 30 (j317) p1601 -35-00 - implausible signal

17946- Fuel shutoff solenoid (N109) p1538 - 35-10 open or short to ground - intermittent

16612 - throttle pedal position sensor (G79) p0228 - 35-10 - signal too high - intermittent

Readiness 11011

Click to expand...

J317 is the 109 Relay. The 109 Relay is actually "activated" by the ECU (computer). The ECU has power on it even if the Ignition is OFF. It also receives power via Fuse 29 when the Ignition is turned ON.

So, you should check for 12+ volts on Fuses, 32, 34 & 43 as I suggested. If they do not have 12+ volts then the 109 Relay (J317) is not working. If it is not working, either the ECU is not "activating" it or it is bad. Or, Fuse 29 is not providing power to the ECU when you turn ON the ignition.

The other codes may go away (can be cleared) when the first problem is solved!

................................... EDIT.........

17946/P1538 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109)
17946/P1538 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground

Possible Causes

• Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109) Faulty
• Wiring to / from Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109) Faulty
• Engine Control Module Faulty <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< My guess is that the ECU may not be getting power as I suggested above!

Possible Solutions

• Check Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109) using Output Tests <<<<< Test for volts at the Shut-off! Voltage will drop considerably after the Ignition is turned ON, which is normal. Thus, you should have someone turn the Ignition ON while you have the multi-meter there checking for voltage. (Again, voltage will drop off which is normal.)
• Check wiring to/from Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109)

...........................

Reading up on P0228 does not indicate a "no-start" situation, only limp mode! Again, fix the issue with the 109 Relay or power to the ECU and this code may be able to be cleared!~

https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...or-switch-c-circuit-high-input-by-jay-safford

109

Replaced 109 with new relay, have replaced fuel shutoff valve with new one, vehicle turns over the glo plug signal comes on and vehicle tries to start but does not. Incidentally the fuel shutoff valve is also designated as 109.

Yeah, but it has a prefix before the 109 (an N).

So, do you have volts at those Fuses?

I've been driving VW diesels over 32 years rolling up near 2 million miles and I have never experienced a bad Shut-off valve or locally know of one going bad. I knew that was a witch hunt. And, likely, the 109 Relay is not the issue either.

I will check voltage on dues tomorrow, had to stand on my head to change the 109 will be back tomorrow with you then

You may want to remove the 109 socket and check that the connectors are firmly seated there. I had one that would randomly not start, showed all symptoms of a failed relay but it was the female connector in the socket. It had been pushed in and was giving intermittent contact on one of the male tabs on the relay switch. Good luck. FWIW, it was a blue wire that wasn't making contact.

18009

I`m getting the same fault code(18009)and after researching a lot I found this can be related to many things from air in the system to low alt voltage.

This is in a Toyota pickup Malone did the tuning and all the deletes and I did my own standalone harness but I didn`t use the vw relay I used the Toyota ignition relay to power everything.

The truck starts fine and idles but smokes(blue)and has no power and boost kicks out at 7 pounds.

I had issues with getting this thing primed and running I put an electric pump near the tank and clear line on the return and I`m fairly certain all the air is out.

It`s probably something simple maybe something I did wrong with the harness just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues.

Mniceracer ... which TDI engine do you have (AHU, ALH, BEW, etc.)?

It`s an 02 alh.

Initially I was having problems with #4 now that one is fine and it`s moved to #2.I`ve switched injectors and lines and nothing changes.

I checked compression and #2 is slightly lower(maybe 20 pounds)so how finicky are these engines about compression?

Well I'm confused. OP was a relay, fuel shut-off, TPS, sounds like you're referring to injectors? I'd take a wild ass guess the OP was a bad 109 or just some wire damage.

#2 misfire

ok so here`s an update on diagnostics.
checked compression #1 480 #2 460-70 #3 480 #4 480
I did a leak down and it`s losing some past the rings but barely noticeable on the gauge.
I`ve changed injectors,lines and no change changed the pump and no change.I even bent a spare line to make sure the injectors are atomizing and they are.This engine ran fine on the floor before I put it in and now it doesn`t.
I`ve searched high and low trying find anything like this and nothing.
I don`t know what else to do I desperately need someone to explain to me how I can have comp.and fuel and this cylinder won`t fire.
I`m pretty much to the point that I`m ready to put a different engine in because I really want drive this thing but then I`ll never know what`s wrong.

mniceracer said:

#2 misfire

ok so here`s an update on diagnostics.
checked compression #1 480 #2 460-70 #3 480 #4 480
I did a leak down and it`s losing some past the rings but barely noticeable on the gauge.
I`ve changed injectors,lines and no change changed the pump and no change.I even bent a spare line to make sure the injectors are atomizing and they are.This engine ran fine on the floor before I put it in and now it doesn`t.
I`ve searched high and low trying find anything like this and nothing.
I don`t know what else to do I desperately need someone to explain to me how I can have comp.and fuel and this cylinder won`t fire.
I`m pretty much to the point that I`m ready to put a different engine in because I really want drive this thing but then I`ll never know what`s wrong.

Click to expand...

Well did you ever figure out what was wrong with it? I'm having the same issues

5 year old thread. mini has no activity since our forum software update (or longer).
Wire harness r+r common solution for the PD

Bob this is not a pd engine….. it’s about an 03..ALH.
But still a 5 year old thread