2006 Jetta TDI Subframe Bolts and EGR

Hi Folks.

I'm a reasonably competent mechanic...fix a lot of our own heavy equipment, trucks, hydraulic systems, electrical bugs etc. I don't know everything, but I'm hardly "new" lol

But lemme tell ya. This MkV Jetta TDI is kicking my arse. I FINALLY got the dang transmission out after giving up and just dropping the subframe. And of course, being tired and grumpy from lying on my back on concrete for hours on end, I just started undoing bolts without making alignment marks. Ugh.

Now according the Bently manual it seems I have to replace every single $#%^ bolt with a new one. Of course, it's Sunday, a long weekend, and all the parts places are closed. So, being as I work very long hours with our business, it's going to be weeks before I get this thing back together.

I am now remembering why I hated working on small vehicles

So here's the three questions:

1) Is it truly necessary to replace ALL the bolts on the subframe? This just seems crazy to me.
2) EGR: Screw it, I'm going to block it off and have it reprogrammed. It's definitely leaking right at the valve bushing. Is it fairly easy to install blocking plates and relocate the coolant lines later on?
3) Is anyone here "One with the Force?" I'm seeking a Yoda type Master who can just wave his (or her) wizened hand and Force Move this $%^#$# thing back together. At a minimum, please levitate the vehicle so I can stand up under it.

Wow. You did not have to drop the sub frame. Completely unnecessary. The requirement is to replace every TTY bolt, no exceptions. I have no clue as to why this simple stuff needs to be so complicated.

Ol'Rattler said:

Wow. You did not have to drop the sub frame. Completely unnecessary. The requirement is to replace every TTY bolt, no exceptions. I have no clue as to why this simple stuff needs to be so complicated.

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Well, I tried and tried to get that DGS trans to drop. Pushed the engine forward, tilted the trans every which way we could on a cherry picker (and with a jack), but it just would not clear the driver side control arm casting without catching the passenger side output flange. Tried removing the pass side flange, and that was a no go too. In the end, we just did what we had to do to make this job happen. Believe me I really did not want to drop the subframe.

I also have no clue why this simple stuff needs to be so complicated. Yes, I do not reuse TTY bolts. Was just surprised that every dang bolt on this car seems to be TTY. I guess my sarcastic levity did not come through clearly enough.

Yeah, I 've done more than a few DSG and it is a tight fit. BUT sub-frame stays in and removing the passenger flange makes it a lot easier. Did you take the radiator fans off to make more room to push the engine forward? Also if you lower the engine too little or too much that makes it difficult to get DSG past the driver side of the sub-frame.

I usually support engine on cross bar and lower left (driver) side down until top of DSG, where the mount was, is about even with the frail rail. That should get the height about right. Then with the radiator fans/shroud removed and exhaust loosened, push engine forward until AC compressor electric plug is just about touching or exhaust hits steering rack uncomfortably tight. Remove passenger driver flange, then proceed to cuss and swear while playing Tetris to get the DSG in the right position, where is magically just falls out.

Yeah, all of the bolts that you need to remove for sub-frame need to be replaced. Specially on a 2006 Jetta from the great white north. Bonus - alignment hell because most shops that do alignments, don't mess with sub-frames.

Jason

SilverGhost said:

Yeah, I 've done more than a few DSG and it is a tight fit. BUT sub-frame stays in and removing the passenger flange makes it a lot easier. Did you take the radiator fans off to make more room to push the engine forward? Also if you lower the engine too little or too much that makes it difficult to get DSG past the driver side of the sub-frame.

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Fans. My son and I thought about that...then promptly forgot. Nope, left them in. I'm pretty sure we had the engine height using the support bar a little wrong. Took our best guess but...

Remove passenger driver flange, then proceed to cuss and swear while playing Tetris to get the DSG in the right position, where is magically just falls out.

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Gods...did we ever try to pop that flange off. I'm sure there's a trick, but endless mucking about with pry bars and wedges just produced nothing. With it removed I'm fairly sure we could have cleared that bolt casting on the engine where it constantly hung up.

Bonus - alignment hell because most shops that do alignments, don't mess with sub-frames.

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HAHAHAHAHA fantastic. Thanks

Oh, sorry. I though you did get the flange off. It is bolted on. An allen (6mm?) deep in the hole after you take the axle off. Hope you didn't muck up the case or flange too bad trying?

Jason

I take the subframe totally out. Super easy, steering gear and all. Takes 10-15 minutes. Electric steering rocks. Simple harness, no messy hydraulic lines. And then you have all the room in the world. Love doing 02E DMFs, one of my favorite jobs. One of the easiest transverse FWD gearboxes to R&R.

I don't normally mess with subframe bolt replacement, I just take care as to putting them back in, as they've already been "stretched". I've probably had 1000+ A5 subframes in and out, never once had an issue.

It is the ones where the vertical load is on the bolt head from above that I am most concerned with. Opposite of the subframe bolts, like the engine and trans mount bolts. Those also screw into aluminum, so they CAN'T be super tight.

oilhammer said:

I don't normally mess with subframe bolt replacement, I just take care as to putting them back in, as they've already been "stretched". I've probably had 1000+ A5 subframes in and out, never once had an issue.

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Uh oh...re-using TTY bolts?...You must be new around here, huh? You're going to be in big trouble mister!

If I replaced every single bolt, on every single car, every single time, on everything I do, I would need a dump truck sized scrap barrel and would have a daily delivery of 50 pounds of hardware, LOL.

I use discretion on this sort of thing, and anyone that knows me knows that I am OCD about a lot of things automotive related. I "rotate" oil fill cap gaskets at each service. Yeah, I'm nuts.

oilhammer said:

If I replaced every single bolt, on every single car, every single time, on everything I do, I would need a dump truck sized scrap barrel and would have a daily delivery of 50 pounds of hardware, LOL.

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LOL.. Thanks oilhammer. I was just pickin' on the TDIclub crowd, not you.

I admit there is some common sense and best judgement involve with TTY bolts, or I'd be in the same boat as oilhammer.

Jason

SilverGhost said:

Oh, sorry. I though you did get the flange off. It is bolted on. An allen (6mm?) deep in the hole after you take the axle off. Hope you didn't muck up the case or flange too bad trying?

Jason

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LMFAO that might explain a few difficulties! I was thinking there was only a c clip holding it inside. I'll be looking for that shortly...trans is still out as work has us busy.

And thanks for the replies folks. My son and I have had some "fun" bonding time on this project

Always wondered about that. Especially with the alignment related stuff like, how would that even work to replace all the TTY bolts. If you losen one slightly to adjust the alignment, then tighten it again, you'd have to take it all the way out and replace, but then alignment might be off again?

najel said:

Always wondered about that. Especially with the alignment related stuff like, how would that even work to replace all the TTY bolts. If you losen one slightly to adjust the alignment, then tighten it again, you'd have to take it all the way out and replace, but then alignment might be off again?

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If you are replacing the bolts, then replace one at a time while leaving the rest tight. Sub-frame will not move doing it that way, unless there is something else seriously wrong with the car.

Also, for when you remove a sub-frame for repairs, VW makes a special tools to keep the sub-frame alignment. Basically alignment pins that go in the holes as you take out bolts, to make the sub-frame go back in the same place it came out. Of course there is a little wiggle room and depends on how well they were installed. But most cars will be so close that that an alignment will not be needed.

Jason

SilverGhost said:

If you are replacing the bolts, then replace one at a time while leaving the rest tight. Sub-frame will not move doing it that way, unless there is something else seriously wrong with the car.
Also, for when you remove a sub-frame for repairs, VW makes a special tools to keep the sub-frame alignment. Basically alignment pins that go in the holes as you take out bolts, to make the sub-frame go back in the same place it came out. Of course there is a little wiggle room and depends on how well they were installed. But most cars will be so close that that an alignment will not be needed.
Jason

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Of course there's a special tool for that Interesting though, I bet that shops don't go through all that when doing an alignment after performing work that requires removing the subframe. Like Oilhammer said, there is probably no reason to, they would know because they would have hundreds of customers coming back with cars where suspension components fell off.