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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old August 11th, 2017, 13:58   #46
All Stock
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Axle is at the front of the block/ oil pan. Oil pump is in the rear. I believe I got 1-3/8" additional clearance in the front. More importantly the additional capacity and its location.

2" of lift...while a common leveling kit in the 4x4 realm actually impacts more than simply realized when it comes to suspension geometry and driveline angles. On a jeep... expect rear vibrations as you will be lifting that as well, however you may be good given the longer wheelbase and engine relocation. Keep in mind your oem shaft had a dampner in it with ideal oem angles. Rear spacer blocks will likely have the proper taper to them anyway... if its a leaf setup. Coils require arm changes. A lot of that is not so much an issue off road as the suspension goes through its full travel. On a primarily street machine its that neutral state ride height/sag going down the road that becomes the concern with a solid front axle. 2" Lifted superduties and Rams suffered from death wobble.... with just 2" spacers!! Its the small bumps at speed with angles that are technically at an extended travel already. Research caster changes.

When I got my wrangler it already had a 4" procomp lift on it. The jeep was level with an ARB front bumper. Taking out the 4.0l, putting in the TDI and using the same exact springs... the front end went up over 2" measured and this was after adding a winch to that bumper. I ended up with the 4" rear springs and using OME 2" springs in the front netting the same finish height at the 4" 4.0L procomp kit. Given you had the Renault diesel 4 cyl in there in the first place the 4.0L springs will give you that 1 3/4" + that your looking for.


All that to say...experience says there's more to consider than meets the eye.
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Last edited by All Stock; August 11th, 2017 at 16:33.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 18:15   #47
john.jackson9213
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All Stock, which engine transmission adapter did you use? The gas2diesel adapter pushes the engine forward at least 2 inches. With the 4.0 engine, the oil pan sump is just behind the front axle. Above the axle, the 4.0 pan is very shallow and more than 4 or 5 inches above the front axle. Just from a quick inspection of my 91 Comanche.

Should add, this lift is only at the front. The leafs at the rear are a bastard hoge-poge that I will sort out later. Likely new stock springs and AirLift bags or air shocks.

Last comment:. It should be easy to get rid of or cut down the poly lifts if they Don't work out.
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.

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Old August 11th, 2017, 19:59   #48
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John,
The Comanche and the Cherokee are basically the same. The Cherokee uses the exact same front suspension as the TJ aside from the high pinion 30 front axle. Things should be very similar except for the frame horns. The Cherokee is a unibody frame and the wrangler a full frame chassis. Given the Comanche is a separate bed and an earlier build I would have thought it to be full framed as well. However I can’t say I have been underneath one.

My 4.0L had the same clearances you describe. While I built my oil pan in the same manner as the oem Jeep, it wasn’t for clearance sake, it was because the oil pickup location is center to the crankshaft with a flat bottom pan. Every rear wheel drive motor in the world has the oil pickup at the rear due to the G forces that move oil. I didn’t want the motor to starve for oil. Also keep in mind the TDI is short 2 much larger cylinders thereby reducing how much it reaches forward compared to the 4.0L and that impacts the clearances dramatically.

My adapter which is not on the market was custom made to mount the motor vertical while maintaining the transmissions relationship to its mount and the tunnel intact. This keeps the manual shifter from going into the dashboard because we have to find firewall clearance. It’s even worse for the ALH and newer guys who have a vacuum pump on the end of the camshaft! So my adapter moves the motor forward 2 ” with the trans in the stock location. The original COTY kits didn’t move the motor that far and knowing this, mine was designed to do just that. Others have since discovered it’s an issue and have rightly adjusted accordingly.

For clearances, my harmonic balancer sits behind the axle tubes. It’s the axle housing that is the issue. I can’t use the oem TDI accessory mounts. My A/C and alt hit the steering selector shaft and the upper control arm/frame mount. My pwr steering pump was less than 3” from the axle housing with the 4.0L 4” lift springs installed and no front end on it. That got moved to engine ports side. Your truck looks to be 2wd so that should not be an issue at all for you. In addition your control arms are going to be more horizontal meaning your axle should sit even further away from the H-balancer than mine.

PM me an email addy and I’ll send you a couple shots from the original build. I’ll save them from here for if and when I do a complete build thread.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 20:17   #49
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Close comparison of the pics appears to reveal that the Comanche has the motor sitting father forward then they do in a wrangler. Your shock mount is mid motor whereas mine is near my accessory belt. Unless you have a 5" plus gap behind your cylinder head and the firewall this would appear to be the case.

You mentioned a new driveshaft. If the trans is in the stock location? Using the stock trans, why did it have to be changed? If your trans was moved forward in addition to a forward mounting adapter, you may have a lot of real estate between the motor and firewall your not utilizing. I don't think that's the case though. I cant see that in the photos that you posted. It does look like that axle sits further back though.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 23:01   #50
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Transmission is in the same place from front to back (the transmission mount was rotated 180 degrees to get more room, left to right, for the a/c compressor. See pictures before and after from the steering column to the compressor). AX 15 transmission is longer than the AX 5, so driveshaft was shortened/replaced with new to compensate for the extra length of the AX 15.

Take a look on the driver side at where the oil fiter is. I will need a remote filter because of the driver side motor mount. Did you have to use a remote filter?
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 17:39   #51
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I didn't have to use a remote oil filter. I even use the largest oil cooler I could find, V6 if I recall. Reason being I use the front of the block to mount the motor. I built a truss that goes to each side to complete the three point needed to mount a drivetrain assembly. The bolt holes on the front of the block (4) were actually used as a mount location on earlier VW chassis. Its the same manner that VW mounts the ALH. Given my bay has the motor mounted further back than the Comanche I have all kinds of room to work with on that style of mount. Its already been cut up for a redesign though.
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Old August 14th, 2017, 19:59   #52
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More updates today. I will just cut an paste what Matt sent today.

"Working on the truck now, no way in hell stock vw power steering pump will work. Getting a volvo s40 electric power steering pump from a local wrecking yard tomorrow for $75.

It's going to by far the easiest/cheapest way to put power steering on it. For me to make new brackets to mount a pump on the passenger side is going to be far more time than $75 for a electric pump. By fooling the pump controller, it comes on 2.5 seconds after key on and runs continuously instead of varied duty as volvo intended. The motor is brushless so no worries about wearing out.
Coil spacers are in. I removed the factory 5/8" thick rubber spring pads since the poly takes the place of them, so the overall front end increase is only ~1 1/4", hardly noticeable but gets us my preferred clearance amounts. I also added a 1" spacer to where the bump stop contacts so overall travel of oem suspension is the same. When the coils were out I pushed the axle tube all the way up and the tube contacted the oil pan and 4 link bracket to ac compressor at same time bump stops touched. So the 1" spacer will let the bump stops compress and no danger of contact anywhere. But to even get that level of compression in the first place, you'd need to take a dukes of Hazzard jump.

Your rear leaf packs are in sad shape and really should be replaced. Once they are replaced and crap is out of the bed, the truck should be level."



EDIT: My plan has been to replace the springs when I get the truck home with a new stock factory type spring pack from General Spring. Just need to make up my mind if I want the Metric Ton pack (1700 lbs) or the Standard leaf pack (1280 lbs). Think it will be the Standard leaf pack and eventually some Air Lift springs to add capacity.

Edit on 8/15: Have a line on a decent used pair of Comanche springs for less than $50 - New springs are $280 to 480 per pair. Tempted to try these with the Air Lift springs.
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.

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Old August 16th, 2017, 20:10   #53
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A couple of pictures of the oil pan and the modified oil pickup:






Nice work!
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.
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Old August 17th, 2017, 03:58   #54
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i guess your set on the volvo power steering pump huh ? there is another option using a saturn vue electric power steering unit and one of the portuguese controllers ... gonna apply this setup to my 69 mustang project ... no hydraulics, all underdash, is purely on demand, and completely automatic
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Old August 17th, 2017, 06:31   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
i guess your set on the volvo power steering pump huh ? there is another option using a saturn vue electric power steering unit and one of the portuguese controllers ... gonna apply this setup to my 69 mustang project ... no hydraulics, all underdash, is purely on demand, and completely automatic
Volvo unit is mounted, so..

But that Saturn Vue unit sounds very interesting. Especially the no hydraulics part!
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.
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Old August 17th, 2017, 07:58   #56
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The Saturn brings about the issue of the actual gearbox needing the hydraulic flow. The Saturn is an electric unit in the column under the dash, at least is was on my vue.

As for the oil pan, now you can have confidence when you drive through Colorado climbing the mountains through one of those steep passes that your engine will survive it. Matt set that up perfectly.
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Old August 17th, 2017, 12:15   #57
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Inside of the turbo adapter:




Intake manifold in process:

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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.

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Old August 28th, 2017, 07:59   #58
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Picture of the electric Power Steering hoses routing:




Routing to the Volvo electric pump:


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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.

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Old August 28th, 2017, 11:18   #59
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Lots of progress to report. Lots of pictures to upload. So will take me several posts over the next couple of days.

But, here is the bottom line: I was in the mid west to see the Solar Eclipse and managed a couple days to Matt's shop. Saw the engine start for the first time while I was there and the truck moved under TDI power. By the time I left on Friday morning there were just a few items left to complete.

Here is a picture of the finished turbo mounted on the engine and connected to the stock Jeep intercooler: You will also see the VW ECU mounted under the radiator overflow reservoir.




Custom made adapter to replace VW stock plastic that pointed the wrong way.





Here is the lift pump, mounted above the remote oil filter. The Bosch relays are Jeep OEM, repurposed to power the VW ECU/glow plugs and the Volvo electric power steering pump.




This is the original Jeep solenoid relay. Turned out to be bad. Jumped it and the engine started, first time. A replacement stock Jeep solenoid was purchased and the engine would start with the key!




As you might expect, there were some wiring issues before the truck was started. One particular issue was first trying to find the stock Jeep diesel water temperature sensor from a truck bed full of parts:



Matt looked all thru the old engine parts but could not find the water temp sensor. But, when I posted a request for help on the Comanche Club forum, we got a great picture of the factory location of the sensor on the cylinder head, a picture of an old and new temp sensor PLUS the part number for a new sensor. All in only about 3 hours!!

Here is the old sensor in the Jeep/Renault head:




Here is the picture with the part number, an old sensor and a new sensor:





With that help, we found the old sensor. Matt fabricated a bung, welded it into the water lines and we had a sensor.

But we ran into another issue. The wire that came off the original sensor "Looked" green and there were several green wires on the other side of the engine bay. Turns out none of them match our original wire. So we pulled the wire back out of the cross body loom. Turned out the color was blue by the time we got to the other side of the engine bay. Oil, heat, and time had changed the wire color and fooled 4 of us who all check the wire color. That solved our water temp problem.

More problems to follow in the next post.
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.

Last edited by john.jackson9213; August 28th, 2017 at 15:45. Reason: pictures added
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Old August 28th, 2017, 16:36   #60
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Thursday night I left Matt at 9 p.m. We had still had no power to the interior of the cab and none of the instruments worked. Most importantly, no brake lights or running lights on the rear.

When I got back to his shop at 8:45 Friday morning, Matt looked like he did not sleep well. He worked till 2 in the morning on electrical issues. But most of the issues were solved: The power issue to the cab turned out to be old, corroded fuses in the fuse panel. Every fuse was tossed, terminals cleaned and power was restored to everything except the fan blower motor. Since the blower has power, we think the 30 year old motor is bad.

We also had the all important brake lights and running lights working properly.

Matt had also found how to hook up the "W" terminal on the alternator to grab the tach siginal. All that need to be done later was adjust the Jeep tach to the correct 900 rpm idle reading. So now the Jeep tach now match the VW ECU signal at the OBDII port.

By 10:30 a.m. it was time for me to leave the shop for a meeting in Plymouth, Michigan.

Several issues remained. The biggest was Reverse could not be engaged with the engine running. Boost was very erratic. Matt planned to change the N75 valve. There were a few smaller issues to be addressed.

By Sunday afternoon, I was back home in San Diego and the truck was still in Michigan. But I was very well pleased to see how close the truck is to being road worthy.
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.
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