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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old March 2nd, 2017, 16:09   #1
Exenos
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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TDI(s): 02 Golf
Default 97 4wd Ranger AHU swap

Since I finally have made some proper progress on my swap I figured that I should probably start a build thread. The project itself is a bit over 3 years in the making. I bought a really nasty 99 mk3, yanked the engine and tossed the car asap before it could infect anyone. I didn't really do anything after that for over a year because uni kind of took over. Started back working on it last summer and made some decent progress.

The original plan called for a 2wd reg cab s10 to be the swapee but I found a really clean (rust wise, for Ontario) 4wd ext cab ranger and just couldn't pass it up.



I couldn't find any drawings for the 4.0 bell housing the ranger so I picked up an nv3500 w/ transfer case and flywheel from an S10. I figured using a good heavy sbc flywheel and clutch would net me minimal gear chatter at idle and a good strong clutch without having to resort to any upgraded after market parts. The S10 nv3500 also has the shift tower 6" farther rear than the ranger m5od so it should feel less clunky when shifting, I'm not a fan of how the rangers shift.

sbc clutch vs the stock vw clutch


Drew up the adapter from tdi-> sbc, cut it out with the torch and punched the holes on my mill. Probably out by a few thou but it'll do for now, I might remake it at some point if I'm chewing up pilot bushings in under 100k km's or so. Had the crank adapter made up because I don't trust myself to cut it out on a rotary table with zero run out. I can send any one the drawings for them if you want.






I finally sorted through 90% of the wiring today and fired it up for the first time. The bin in the back right is what I stripped out, still have some more to go. I'm using an old 1.5kW? sbc starter because I got it with the flywheel. Bit on the small side but I figure that with the added leverage from the larger radius flywheel it should work fine. I have a vid I might post if I ever get around to making a youtube account.





The current time line is to get the correct pilot bushing for the input shaft and get the engine sitting in the truck with the mounts mocked up before April. Then its accessories, rad and turbo plumbing before May. Maybe drive shaft as well. I'm giving my golf to my brother to commute to uni so I need to have it running and driving before the summer starts to have time to work out the bugs.



Last edited by Exenos; March 2nd, 2017 at 17:55.
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Old March 3rd, 2017, 16:18   #2
A-man930
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I've got to be honest I was about to scoff at that adapter, but if you've got access to a mill ... why not?!
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Old March 4th, 2017, 12:32   #3
Exenos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man930 View Post
I've got to be honest I was about to scoff at that adapter, but if you've got access to a mill ... why not?!

It certainly looks questionable doesn't it? Its on my list of things to redo after its running and driving.
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Old March 20th, 2017, 12:24   #4
Exenos
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Been swamped with schoolwork for the last few weeks and I doubt that'll change for the next month or so until exams are done.

Despite that though, I have managed to pretty up the harness some. Need to get some more tape and get the engine in the truck before I finish up with the taping. Not sure how much of the wiring I an bundle up together.


I also swapped over a new-ish vnt15 and alh intake from a well worn alh I have sitting around to get the intake pointing in the right direction, also discovered that with the proper application of an adjustable wrench the stock vnt15 hard line can be made to fit an ahu.

On a side note, anyone know the best way to remove exhaust studs without messing the threads? I tried jamming two nuts together, didn't work.

Last edited by Exenos; March 20th, 2017 at 12:26.
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Old March 20th, 2017, 19:15   #5
Exenos
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Took a bit of time to play around in the garage today. Dragged the trans out and bolted it up to make check clearances again. Turns out my starter was angled down a few degrees so I'll have to tweak that.



I had initially tried to relocate the water pump and use a ps pulley from an alh to run it on the serpentine belt and to gain some clearance with the steering box. Made up a fancy bracket to move the pump out ~6" and back 1/2 from the block.



You can see the very rough mounting of it and some accessories in the first post. I decided against that and put it back in the proper place with the vw alt because while it did solve the inital clearance issue it created new issues with locatinos for the other accessories. Problem now is that It's interfering with my mounts that I made up when it was in the different location.



Also cut off the lower half of the alternator bracket because it would have interfered with the steering box again. Thats pretty much all i've done to date. Need to wait until next weekend to have a solid 3 hours to tear into yanking the engine from the ranger.

Last edited by Exenos; March 20th, 2017 at 19:42.
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Old April 17th, 2017, 08:33   #6
Exenos
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Small update, more for me so I can convince myself that Im actually making progress.

Started to pull the engine from the ranger, have everything disconnected and was ready to pull the whole thing out but ran out of time when exams started so its just been sitting loose for the last few weeks. Also ordered a chip programmer to burn my tune and some misc electrical parts to build my fan controller and a couple gauges. Starter rebuild kit, capscrews for head bolts and a new alternator are the next things on my purchase list. So progress is happening on the planning side but nothing really good to show.

On a bit of a side note, if you ever need plugs/connectors for your harness try this style of connectors http://www.ebay.ca/itm/122202827053?...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT dirt cheap and come in any size from 1-6 pin. The first batch I bought were molded from nylon so they're good and strong but might be brittle if your rough with them in cold weather.
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Old April 22nd, 2017, 21:36   #7
Exenos
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Finally made some tangible process today. Yanked the crusty 4.0 out of the ranger and stripped its harness of the oil pressure and coolant temp gauge that feed to the cluster. Embarrassingly enough it took the better part of 4 hours to pull that engine out.


Trans and transfercase will be sold but the 4.0 is going straight to scrap, its a complete pile.


The engine bay needs a serious cleaning but I'm going to stick with my plan of getting the stupid thing running and driving before I go do a frame off on it.

I'll be dropping the tdi in tomorrow and mocking up the mounts. I'm really hoping I can use my nice aluminum s10 drive shaft, unfortunately I think it will be too short.

Last edited by Exenos; April 22nd, 2017 at 21:41.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 12:45   #8
Exenos
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Could someone convince me that running the belt on both sides of the ps pulley is a bad idea? It works perfectly for what I need but just doesn't sit right with me. Obviously the v belt pulley will be replaced with a vr6 pulley.

Last edited by Exenos; April 23rd, 2017 at 12:48.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 15:39   #9
Exenos
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Slow progress is being made. Been working 50-60 hour weeks since I finished school so very little time to work on things. Work got called off today cause of the heavy rain so I finally had time to get stuff done.

Wasn't too productive but I cleaned up the garage and finally got around to putting in some proper electrical instead of just using extension cords. After that I tossed the engine back in to sort out mounts and drive shaft. I have the engine tucked far back in the bay and I can use a ext cab s10 single piece drive shaft. If I move the engine forward 4" I could use a reg cab long box 4wd chevy drive shaft but I like the amount of free room I have in front.


Ignore the sketchy motor mount I just slapped that on to give myself a reference point.


Had to move the egine mount from the stock position because It interfered too much with the water pump. Ill be moving it back right beside the oil filter. Will probably go with a remote setup if space proves to be too tight.



It was raining quite hard so I didn't mess with the trans mount. I was being a wuss and didn't feel like being soaked from lying on the ground.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 20:41   #10
Motohead1
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Man that is alot of rust. But your making progress. Keep it up.
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Old May 26th, 2017, 18:29   #11
Exenos
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The sad thing is that thats a clean truck for Ontario. Floors are solid which is what counts.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 13:32   #12
Exenos
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Got a bunch done in the last week. Not many pictures though, I'll take some when I get home.

What I've got done
-Motor mounts
-Trans mount
-Completely re worked starter mount and shaved .250 off the crank spacer
-Shifter
-PS resevoir mounted
-PS and alt bracket
-Wiring harness routed and in place

Not too much really but enough to get me excited about it again.

These are the only pictures that I actually took.



I'm actually kinda proud of how this piece came out. It fit first try and everything is lined up perfectly. I'll be locking the stock tensioner in place and i'll mount a tensioner up by the alt. Probably a chevy 5.3 tensioner or maybe an old timing belt one.

The next things on my list are
-Drop fuel tank to drain and remove fuel pump
-Find correct conversion u joint for s10 drive shaft to ranger yoke
-Plumb coolant system
-Exhaust? Still undecided on how I'm going to run it

I"m still trying to decide if I'm going to run and intercooler initially or not. I have plans for compounds on this and the stock vw intercooler wont be enough once I do that so I really don't want to spend the money or time on making it work. Gonna be heading into winter in a few months so I think I can get away without one.
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Old August 20th, 2017, 17:56   #13
Exenos
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More progress made. Actually took pics of the motor mounts and worked up a down pipe. Drained the gas from the tank by jumping the in tank pump. Going to throw 10L of diesel in there tomorrow and drain that then fill the tank full. Hopefully that will be enough to get all the gas out of the system.

Passenger side


Drivers side, you can see how I moved the motor mount from the stock position to let the water pump clear.


Downpipe made from the stock vw exhaust. Plenty of room to fit but will be tight when I step up to 3" later. Turned out pretty decent considering I've never done exhaust work before. Need to pick up a 2" ball and socket coupler to mate with the rest of the stock ranger exhaust.





And finaly, two pics of how the engine sits in the bay. I've roughly layed out the wiring harness but I'm not completely satisfied with how messy it is so Its not set in stone yet.



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Old October 10th, 2017, 11:46   #14
Exenos
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Bunch of stuff has been done but not many pictures as usual.

-Finished clearncing the heater box and sealed it back up again.
-Coolant system is done minus buying a 2' section of hose.
-Tensioner on serpentine system is done.
-Ordered timing belt, exhaust studs ect. All the stuff needed to make the engine ready to run.
-Ecu mounted and engine wiring finalized.
-Fuel system done. Lift pump mounted and fuel filter mounted.
-s10 driveshaft mated to ranger axle flange. For reference a ranger axle flange needs a napa 372 ujoint and a explorer axle flange needs a Napa 355 u joint. The difference between the two is the width of the ford cross, the ranger is something like 5/8" narrower.


Lift pump and ecu mount are both visible. Lift pump location is not ideal but it primed the system with no fuel in the liens so it seems to be working fine. Ill be keeping an eye on it
My waste gate also came in but my plans changed slightly while it was being shipped so I wont be needing it until next summer.


To do list:
-Efan shroud
-Throttle bracket (1/2 done)
-Weld up my complete hackery of charge piping
-Wire starter
-Speedometer converter + oil and temp gauges
-Re seal transfer case and sort out some kind of shifter boot for trans.

The end is very much in sight and baring any major setbacks I expect it to take it for a test drive by the end of the month but I dont expect to finish all the finishing touches and have it licensed until closer to Christmas.
Im itching to get this done so I can dump my golf and get back to driving a truck.
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Old October 10th, 2017, 13:53   #15
oilhammer
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Jesus you guys have some rusty cars up there. Wow.

Someone already makes an adapter for the Vulcan engine. Not the Cologne like your truck has, but all you'd need to do is find a Mazda R5 gearbox from a Vulcan truck (there are plenty of those out there) and use that. Just in case you find your adapter does not work.
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