MKIV Rear Axle Bushing Write-up links

So I have been looking into the procedure for installing new rear axle bearings and came across quite a few.
The best one I found was on uk-mkivs.net:
http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/100211-how-to-rear-beam-axle-bushes-cupra-r-bushes/

This is a really good write-up with a different removal procedure than any other such as vwvortex:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1980960

I like to see a couple few different methods before attempting things as some people are better about finding better ways.

Maybe someone will benefit from both of these in the future!

I just unbolt the rear axle from the car-let it hang using wood, replace the bushings using the tool, and that's it.

Yeah, that is pretty much it. Getting the old ones out can be tough as they tend to really get rusted in place. Sawzall and airhammer is what I use there. If they are really tough I just take the beam out and put it on sawhorses. Easier to work with that way, and does not take much longer than doing them on the car since you have to undo some stuff anyway.

Then a good opportunity to replace the rear shocks and (if necessary) rear springs, parking brake cables, and flush the brake fluid.

oilhammer said:

Yeah, that is pretty much it. Getting the old ones out can be tough as they tend to really get rusted in place. Sawzall and airhammer is what I use there. If they are really tough I just take the beam out and put it on sawhorses. Easier to work with that way, and does not take much longer than doing them on the car since you have to undo some stuff anyway.

Then a good opportunity to replace the rear shocks and (if necessary) rear springs, parking brake cables, and flush the brake fluid.

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Not sure if you checked out the top link I posted, but, the guy drove a screw driver between the axle housing and bushing.
Seemed to work pretty well and a lot less frustration if it works than cutting.
Cutting is always the last option for me.

Keep in mind that there's different construction/makeup of these bushings. I think that there's something like four different types. Ones in my 2000 Golf were metal outers. Ones in the daughter's wagon were a thin plastic shell (Cupra R bushings are also plastic, but different). At one point, not sure when, the bushings were hydraulic fluid-filled, though I am uncertain of their housing materials (likely metal).

I was cutting the bushings out of the wagon thinking they were metal outers. Fortunately I wasn't too aggressive with the sawzall and I didn't cut into the axle (much).

I resort to unbolting the axle frame mount on the left/driver's side: no need to do it on the right/passenger side as long as you are careful to not drop the axle too far (and stress the brake line). No messing with brake lines involved. This has worked well for me (two times I've done this work): my first adventure was a learning one- didn't know about removing that bracket- others were cutting a brake line bracket and I wasn't comfortable doing that.

Thanks guys, I'm going to be doing this soon, I have the parts but how long to do the job, a Morning? All day?
Dave

SaxmanKana said:

Thanks guys, I'm going to be doing this soon, I have the parts but how long to do the job, a Morning? All day?
Dave

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This would greatly depend on you, your tool selection, and how well prepared you are.
2hrs to a day depending.

Are you doing anything else while you're in there?
Have you been shooting the bushings with penetrant in preparation?
Do you have the install tools and a saws-all just in case?

block of hardwood with a big hole in it and two large C-clamps is the 'install tool' I used.

the axle is too awkward to hold up and put in my press. but I'm thinking a large 'front end service/balljoint' tool would work too - it is basically a big c-clamp with holes in the right places.

Should be good with all the tools. Good tip on the penetrating fluid, PB Blaster is the deal for me. Just will be doing the LCA Bush, that's enough right there!

Thanks,
Dave

If I do mine again the axle is coming out of the car. Yes cutoff tool as the bolt was frozen in the aluminum plates inside the bushing. Then drill through to get the sawzall in a cut a couple of places, then big hammer and chisel. Took 2 of us like 5 hours to do both sides.

The tool kit is $40 on Ebay, I bought one, works great.

turbovan+tdi said:

The tool kit is $40 on Ebay, I bought one, works great.

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I bought that tool too. It was a pleasure putting the new one in.

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=205144.0

I was going to use this guide when I go to do mine.

In a perfect world, this one's my favorite!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMo0Yi0Ydqc

dirtride said:

In a perfect world, this one's my favorite!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMo0Yi0Ydqc

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That's awesome. Oil filled?

Not sure why he wasted time using a spring compressor? Just lower the beam and you can easily remove the spring.

Keep in mind that the standard tools don't work with Cupra R bushings. The receiving cup is too shallow. I found this out the hard way: crushed one of the bushings. Used a front wheel bearing race and that worked out great. Takes a couple of minutes to crank in a new bushing.

turbovan+tdi said:

That's awesome. Oil filled?
Not sure why he wasted time using a spring compressor? Just lower the beam and you can easily remove the spring.

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Should the spring need to be taken out? Drop the entire axle down or is it possible to just do one side at a time?

Thanks,
Dave

Dave, no need to even think about the springs. With the car supported support the axle and remove the necessary bolts and the axle swings down (be careful about how far- watch the brake lines if you leave them connected- that's how I do it), hinging on the shock mounts. With the axle lowered remove the old bushings (this is the majority of the work- probably 80% of it). Push in the new bushings and then install and tighten all the bolts: I put some load on the axle and then tighten the bushing bolts; not sure if this is necessary, but seems that most suspension stuff is wanted to be tightened up pre-loaded.

UhOh said:

Dave, no need to even think about the springs. With the car supported support the axle and remove the necessary bolts and the axle swings down (be careful about how far- watch the brake lines if you leave them connected- that's how I do it), hinging on the shock mounts. With the axle lowered remove the old bushings (this is the majority of the work- probably 80% of it). Push in the new bushings and then install and tighten all the bolts: I put some load on the axle and then tighten the bushing bolts; not sure if this is necessary, but seems that most suspension stuff is wanted to be tightened up pre-loaded.

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Great, that's how I will do it!

Thanks Much,
Dave
MK4ever

UhOh said:

Dave, no need to even think about the springs. With the car supported support the axle and remove the necessary bolts and the axle swings down (be careful about how far- watch the brake lines if you leave them connected- that's how I do it), hinging on the shock mounts. With the axle lowered remove the old bushings (this is the majority of the work- probably 80% of it). Push in the new bushings and then install and tighten all the bolts: I put some load on the axle and then tighten the bushing bolts; not sure if this is necessary, but seems that most suspension stuff is wanted to be tightened up pre-loaded.

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Hi, the TUV here in Germany just failed me for the pass. side bushing. I was wondering if I just remove the bushing bolt on one side can I wedge a piece of wood between the beam and the body to force only the pass. side to get clearance for working on? You mentioned on another car you worked on, the brake lines were welded on. I have a wagon 2003 ALH. Does the newer ALH have all the lines just clipped and they all need disconnecting?

Thanks, Both great links, think they rent that tool at autozone in Berlin.

indysoto said:

Thanks, Both great links, think they rent that tool at autozone in Berlin.

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Wow, Autozone in Berlin, nice!

I did mine like 7 months ago,, and it went fairly easy, I got me a bushing tool set from Harbor freight and made it so easy to pull both of them out, and to push them in too,,, and I did not take the whole axle out, I just unclipped the brake lines and tied them with zip ties, I let axle hung there, I did it like in a couple hrs taking my time, my bushings were so bad that I was able to remove the whole rubber with my hands,, the bushings I used the saw and they came out easy.